changing automauic transmission fluid

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Well,I decided to downscale a bit and got myself a "new" '96 with 200K ! So in order to bond and do PM , I decided to change ATF -looked like pan had never been off- and trans has definitely never been out- but there was only the thinnest film of the famous gray sludge. Filter did not pass much light,however. No way that could be original fluid , right?! especially with the holes left in bed from 5th wheel, right?
So here's my questions:
1) Does the torque converter have an accessible drain plug ?
2) If so, what's the procedure and PIA factor here?
3) Speaking of PIA ,is it ok to use silicone sealer on the pan gasket,trans side,(which is still happily bonded to the pan )? Am thinking of reusing gasket to make things a bit easier.
BTW,that fuel filter operation was a ton of fun? Anyone got the phone # fo EPA's Hazmat division?I think i can safely say I prefer smelling burned diesel rather than wearing it!
Thanks, guys.

 

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I took my truck to a place that has a powerflush system when I switched over to synthetic ATF. It replaces most, if not all, of the ATF in the transmission and torque converter.
The flush process does not eliminate the need to replace the filter. I would remove the old gasket and replace it. I installed a drain plug in my auto trans pan. I got it through Geno's. It makes filter changes much less messy. When torqued down properly, the trans pan should not leak, even without silicone.

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

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Tim,
Thanks for the input! One option I am considering is running this batch through for 5-6K and then going to "Iffy Lube" for the T-tech power flush. Did they let you supply your own synthetic or did they actually have it in stock?
Drain plug is a great idea but I'm kinda gettin' into various nightly fluid baths... . I don't have access to a lift so I 've been crawling on the ground a lot lately. Come to think of it ... why the h**** am I doing this?
Oh , now I remember! I want it done right... . #ad
Duh! Plus I'm doing good Male bonding ( or was it bondage ? ) with "Rameses".
Seeya!

 

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Unfortunatly no drain plug for the torque converter. Why I don't know. When you take a few more of those fluid baths you'll decide to go for the drain plug in the pan #ad
DEFINITLY change the gasket and filter. Get a filter kit that comes with the rubber gasket and you won't need any sealer. Remember to just snug the bolts down, that's aluminum you're torquing on!
Good luck!
Daniel


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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"

 

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The place I went to had no problem with me supplying my own ATF. They just wanted to be sure it met the truck manufacturer's requirements. When all was said and done, they gave me a discount since I didn't use their ATF. Sounds fair.

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

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Thanks Tim and Daniel!
Mission accomplished with nary a drip ! Local Iffy Lube OK'd my synthetic for next time in 6000 miles . Next time I'll probably step up to the drain plugged pan. I was browsing Summit Racing's catalogue and saw some reasonably priced Mopar pans... who knows? One might fit. Anyone know the type of transmission , e. g. , 727 ? Also of interest was a trans filter kit which spliced into external lines and used a large spin on canister type fiter with provision for a temp sensor (sensor and gauge included). Any opinions on this setup?

 

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had one of the add on filter setups on a gaser. Really liked it. Was easier to change frequently and add a new quart of fluid. But have not added one yet to Dodge. You are right on male bonding or did you have it right on bondage. Also the pan with drian plug is only way to go. Pan should deep and have 2-3 quarts of added fluid. Sure helps in long run.

 

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In 120,000 miles, I've changed mine 4 times. I have a spin on 10 micron filter in the rubber line going into the cooler. I pull the hose off the fitting, aim it into a bucket, have someone start it, place shifter in "N". It will pump most of the fluid into the bucket in a few seconds. When it quits flowing, I have them shut it off, and most of the fluid is removed. Then I drop the pan, let it drip over night, put on the new pan filter, & a new spin on & refill. Usually takes about 11 quarts this way.