2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Changing front seals and bearings

[Puffin Smoke]

Ok so im getting ready to change the brakes and rotors on my truck. My passenger side axle seals are leaking and the bearing is slightly worn. Not sure if i wanna spend that much on the bearing right now if i can get some more miles out of it. What tools am i gonna need to get the seals out and in? Are they hard? I know the sealed bearing unit bolts on with 4 bolts. Does the bearing unit get stuck on there with rust or anything, do i need a puller for it?



If i had my own garage and my spare car Id just do it but i dont and im doing it in my RV park that im at and i dont want to get caught in a bind.



Any info on tools and where ya got them would be great.



Thanks

Mike





Oo.

 

[illflem]

These instructions are pretty complete http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Front Axle Tech/Front Axle Tech.htm

 

[Puffin Smoke]

I had just happened to find that really good site. Thanks

 

[illflem]

Mike forgot to mention - I've run into 6 trucks so far with leaking front seals that had overfilled differentials. Every one of them stopped leaking when the level was dropped to the correct level. Owners and service manual both say the level should be 1/2'' below the bottom of the fill plug. This is about 3/4 of a quart less than right up to the bottom of the hole. If yours is too full you might try sucking some out and see if the leak dries out after a few hundred miles.

 

[John]

Ya know Bill,...



that's what I was wondering (if overfilling the front differential was part of my problem)... as I added a Mag-Hytec front differential cover just after they were released... maybe 1. 5 years ago or so. However, even though I filled it up to the high mark on the Mag-Hytec dipstick (max mark = to the "bottom of the axle"... min mark = to the "bottom of the axle tube"... both of which are higher than the OE suggested fill level), and have subsequently ran and changed the gear lubricant two times since, I never had a leaking problem until I replaced my front rotors. Then, a leak started on the driver side axle seal. I decided to take your advice and drive it for several hundred miles to see if the seal would re-conform to design specs. although, such did not seem to be the case. My next move is to re-check the front axle lubricant level, add or remove lubricant as necessary, test drive my Ram for further seal evaluation and go from there.



I guess we'll see what we'll see.

 

[Puffin Smoke]

Well I decided to say scre* trying to change my seals in a RV campground. I cant get the wheel bearing assy's out. It broke loose on one side but the other is stuck and its cocked and rusted so bad. Ive now decided that this is the second biggest piece of ***** in my truck along with the stock auto transmission that I used to have. It is the shi*iest design ever I think. Im not even gonna take it in to get if fixed now. Ill wait till I need to change something more important than the seals like bearings or ball joints. Ill do it when I get back from Iraq and have an abundance of cash cause of course thats what Im going over for is the money. I will have the whole front end rebuilt when Im over there. Oil cost a dime a dozen by the gallon and I will just top it off when it needs it. There Im done biotching!!!! :-{}

 

[illflem]

I was reading in a recent issue of Machinery Lubrication Magazine about oil levels in gearboxes, transmissions and differentials. They said that the oil level should be half way up the lowest bearing, we're talking a single ball or roller bearing not the ring. Underfull and the bearings can run dry, overfull and they run hot.

More isn't always better...

Guys who overfill their trannys by pouring lube into the top by removing the shifter are probably doing more harm than good.

 

[John]

At first it sounded like the front axle seal R&R procedure was rather easy... with the use of the proper seal removal and installation tools (according to the FSM).



However, after reading the link provided, it sounds as if the differential has be be removed. If that's the case, it's making a better and better case for me to R&R both ring and pinions to something lower (ratio wise) than my 3. 54s. With my A/T and 295 BFG A/Ts, 3. 90s look pretty tempting (if available)... maybe 3. 73s.



At any rate, if only the driver side axle seal needs replacing, it's not clear to me if all the stuff on the other side (tire/wheel, caliper, hub/bearing assembly, outer axle assembly etc. ) must be removed as well in order to allow the removal of the differential. My gut feeling is yes, as otherwise I would think the short inner axle section on the passenger side would prevent the differential from removal.



Any insight? I've changed ring and pinion assemblies on 4x4s before, it's just that I really didn't want to "rebuild" the whole front-friggin-axle of my Ram "again" so soon after getting it all back together.

 

[Cooker]

Both sides (tires, axles, brearing/hub/rotor) need to come apart to get the carrier out.



It is a major PIA just to change a friggin' axle seal.

 

[John]

That's what I thought... thanks Ryan.



On another note...



last night I removed the custom 3/8" thick aluminum shim I had installed between the driveshaft center support bearing and the frame cross member (to eliminate vibration that I somehow made worse instead of better). After cleaning up all traces of gear lubricant from the driver side knuckle/lower ball joint as well as the surrounding area, and a subsequent recheck of gear lubricant level, I took my Ram for a test drive... about 70 miles or so. After arriving home, parking it with a driver side downward bias, I had no leak last night after several minutes or so and still had no leak as of this morning. After I drove it to work (first time for my Ram since last November), I checked the "leak zone" with a flashlight and everything still looked ok.



I'm hopeful... (knock on wood)

 

[Cooker]

Hopefully the leak has disappeared and you will be in the clear.



I think I may have gotten lucky as well. Just in the last couple days I haven't noticed mine leaking anymore either. It's been almost 2 months and over 4k miles so I thought it would certainly need to be replaced. I will clean it up today and hope for the best. (I'm sure I shared the same sentiments as you with not wanting to tear into the front end again so soon )

 

[John]

I spoke too soon!



The leak has returned (either that or it never really disappeared).



I will drive it some more to evaluate it further.

 

[illflem]

John, I wonder if maybe it leaks more when parked than driven and the side tilt it's parked on is making the difference. It can leak into the axle tube when parked but only show up when driven. If you're parking on a side tilt, however slight, you might try parking it the other way and see if it makes a difference.

I say this because I know you park a lot!

 

[John]

Originally posted by illflem

I say this because I know you park a lot!

Oh man... you too? I thought I wouldn't get so brutalized here on the TDR... I thought that was a NW BOMBers thing.

:--)