Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Changing injectors.. How much hassel and what tools...

[Motorhead]

I want to change injectors in the truck. I'm thinking about the DDIIs. First question before anything happens... How much mileage am I going to lose or am I??? (under normal driving).

Anyhow, Is their anything special that I need to do? I'm a good wrench. Is their a need to bleed them and do you bleed them at the fitting on the outside of the head? I heard that you have to remove the # 6 rocker arms. Do I need a special puller to remove them?

Of you guys that have put the DDlls with the EDGE EZ, are there worries of head gasket problems? Otherwise, I would consider putting in 275s instead.

ALL COMMENTS WELCOME!!! Chris

 

[drifter]

I can only answer a few of your questions. I just put 275 Rv's in.

Go to Fritz's Dodge Ram Tech's home page. His site has a injector installation instruction page.

Tools I used.

ratcheting flex head 3/8 torque wrench (really helps)

3/4 ' crows foot or 19mm

15mm socket

8mm wrench

10mm socket and wrench

The injectors are pressed in and held down by a cross bar.

Only remove the outside bolt holding the cross bar down. The bar will slip off easily.

The injectors will pull out easily. You can use a 1" socket and an 8mm bolt with a nut and washer to make a puller. The injector is threaded on top for this purpose. Or you can just put an 8mm bolt in in it and use a brake adjusting spoon to lever it out. They come out easy.

You do not have to remove any rocker arms. #5 and 6 are back in there a bit.

As a precaution I went to Cummins and got 6 injector connector tube "O" rings. Your new injectors will have new O rings on them.

Its a bit hard to explain but the big nut you see on the injector fuel line going into your head presses against a connector tube to feed the fuel into to side of the injector. Big item here, when you undo the fuel lines going into the head. , take a small screw driver ( 2 or 3 ") and pry out the connector tube BEFORE you pull out the injector. They pry out very easily.

Cummings in big bold letter tells you that the torque on the 3/4 / 19mm nuts attaching the fuel lines to the side of your head is CRITICAL. 29 lbs. They attach the fuel line and push the connector tubes into the injector. No seal = problems. Bending connector tubes = problems.

Go to Fritz's site and read his instructions. Its pretty easy. Takes a few hours going slow.

 

[snowracer69]

Post your email address and the instructions will be coming your way... . can't post on here (don't know why, as I wasn't around when that came about, but it IS a no-no).



Nothing to the install... takes about 2 hours by yourself taking your time and doing it right.



Most specialized tool is an in-lbs torque wrench... other then that, everything is pretty basic.



Probably will lose 1 MPG, but that's cause your foot will be in the go-fast pedal more and harder... . your face on the other hand will be going and you will be Oo. and all D-Mins and P-Strokes will be :{ :{







Josh

 

[Big White Beast]

3/4" stubby.......

That's what worked for me. You have to have the crows foot if you want to try and torque it all back down. If your good with wrenches you can feel it out pretty well.



On the 01 I did it by the instructions and the 02 I didn't bother. Both work well.



DD2's will keep your mileage about the same. When they say mileage is controlled by the right foot now you'll know what they were talking about.



Garrett

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks for the info Guys. I always get cold feet when I first try new things. Seems pretty easy. Chris

 

[Bob Wagner]

chris we are right here on the way to dtt, stop by on the way up there are plenty of bombers to lend a hand.



the install time is way under an hour

 

[drifter]

Changed injectors and check valve clearances. Clearances were dead on at 50,000 miles. Did not "bleed" injectors. Cycled the fuel pump 2 times, got on the starter for 2, 5 second "grinds" and it fired up on the third, smoothed out in a few min. . Piece of cake.

 

[speedracer]

One thing to keep in mind with this combo and the auto transmission is you might have to set aside some $ for transmission upgrades to handle the power. I'm not positive on this, since I've got a 6sp I have no first hand experience with the auto, but from what I've read it seems likely. But it ain't all rosy on the 6sp side, if I were doing the mods you are, I'd likely have to get a clutch.

 

[drifter]

Not anticipating any problems with the trans at the power level 275's give you. But I drive like it cost me 30,000. I don't race it or horse it around. I didn't mention it but I also put a Boost de limiter and boost elbow on. They only cost 60 bucks. Mfg by BD performace. Good quality product.

Old retired Air force guy.

99 3/4 Dodge, 4" ex, Amsoil air filter, 275's, boost fooler, boost,egt and fuel pressure gages.

 

[Big White Beast]

Drifter.......

With just those injectors and no fueling box your transmission will be right on the edge. Probably hold it if you have one of the stronger ones out of the factory. There is usually a few pounds of adjustment you can squeeze out of em if need be. Good time for a fluid and filter change then adjust the pressure up a few pounds. DTT's web sight used to have a graphic on how to do this.



Garrett

 

[drifter]

No problem on the transmission. I change the oil (Amsoil) and filter every year also do the 2 adjustments. I don't race it or horse it around. Keep the R's up when towing. Pull it out of overdrive before it down shifts. (well most of the time)

The engine runs smoother and a little quieter with the new injectors. Est. that I am getting about 255 -259 HP by using my weird math.

Stock 99 at WOT pulls 18. 2 Lb boost and rated at 215 HP according to Cummins. And according to my boost gage I was able to pull 18 Lbs at WOT before 275's.

This is where the weird math comes in. 215 Hp divided by 18. 2 Lbs works out to 11. 81 HP per pound of boost at WOT. Old truck drivers will tell you that 1 Lb of boost is equals aprox. 10 HP (20 lbs would equal 200hp) . My contention for a long time is that the 24 valve engine run a bit more efficient. Less air restriction.

This is based on my experience in superchargers and cam selection experience. Long story. More boost dosn't nessarlly equal more HP. Yes more unnessary boost will get you less EGT but at no gain power and in some a loss of power.

Anyhow back to 11. 81 Hp per 1 Lb of boost. Empty on the flat and level WOT to drive the boost up to my new max reading of 22+ lbs of boost. A gain of a good 4 lbs. 22 Lbs X 11. 81 = 259 HP.

The truck is set up with out of the box new Bosch 275 RV injectors, Amsoil air filter, BD boost de-limiter, BD boost elbow and 4 " free flowing exhaust system.

As a test I clamped off the wastegate and was able to drive the boost up to 23 LBs. With my level of fueling thats it.

With my weird math I came up in the range of gain that the dyno tests say (44 hp). ummmm.

Poor boy with no dyno. Now I wish that I could see the torque proflle. . As a final note as I see it, towing down the road and pulling lets say 10 lbs of boost means that you are using 118 HP. Trivia.