Changing the Fuel filter on a 24v

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Sorry to ask this most basic of questions, but... . How do "properly" change the fuel filter? First time I had the dealer do it. . since it was in the shop for recall work. Now its my turn, and I can't find anything in the manual. I'm sure this has been discussed many times but I couldn't find anything by doing a search. Please help and thanks in advance.

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98' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. AMSOIL oil filter relocation kit w/secondary by-pass unit,Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner, K&N. Somehow lost my silencer Ring.
Still wishin I could put my M3's mile deep paint job on the truck. Or maybe I should wish to swap its perfectly engineered automatic. Or maybe... . Ah heck, Just wish BMW would start makin a truck using the ISB!

 

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I believe it takes a 1 1/8 wrench (can't remember without going out to my truck) or socket. Drain the fuel using the drain lever on the side of the filter. Using the wrench or socket, remove the top of the fuel filter. Lift out the old filter. Note how the old filter was installed. Make sure the O ring comes out with the filter. Check for any debris that may be in the bottom of the filter cannister and clean out if necessary. Unwrap the new filter and install the O ring into the filter groove. Lube the O ring with a little oil. Slide the filter into the cannister. Carefully start the top onto the cannister. Don't cross thread the plastic #ad
. I believe the top tightens to 18 ft/lbs. Turn the ignition to on (Don't engage the starter) and let the lift pump prime the filter. Do this a couple of times. Start the truck and check for leaks around the cannister top. I usually wipe it down with a good dry cloth to make sure I can feel any seeping fuel. That's it.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards,
Real Backup Lights

 

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Like Alan said but you will find that the filter housing is removed on the 98/99's and not the top. I have not tried it but someone mentioned pulling on of the brass plugs out of the top and filling the filter before you prime the system.

 

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And... don't forget to clean the "WIF" while your in there.
http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/TSBOO/14-03-00.htm

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"Axekicker"
Las Vegas
'00, 2500/QC/SWB, 4X4, A/T, SLT, White/Grey,... Properly Valved.

[This message has been edited by Axekicker (edited 07-06-2000). ]

 

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Actually the 98 uses a 9/16 socket to loosen the top bolt on the cannister, but first drain a little fuel from the drain valve, then unplug the water in fuel sensor wires. The canister will drop down and you can pull it up by the power dist box. Be sure to replace the two O ring and the canister sealing gasket, they come with a new filter. Then fill the canister with filter installed almost full of diesel and reinstall. The 18 pound torque sound about right. Turn on the key to run the lift pump, then after it quits running turn off the key, then bump the starter lightly to make the lift pump run again. That usually primes mine good enough to run without any sputtering.

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1998. 5 QC 2500 4X4 24 VALVE, INTENSE BLUE, 235-85 MICHELIN, BANKS STINGER,

 

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http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/ram_frame.html

Fritz' site has a good step by step. I think they mention 10 lbs torque on that one. They also explain the priming procedure which I left out #ad
. Sorry about that.

 

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Ancient Wood's got it exactly right. I've changed a lot of them in 150,000 miles--a couple of those changes were out in the boonies, so be sure to carry a spare with you at all times.

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98. 5 24v 3500 E-brake by Jacob U. S. Gear over/direct O'Reilly Air Horns 35' Prowler 5th wheel with three slides Firestone air helper springs