Changing tubo housings

[fastmark]

I have the turbo off on the bench and have the 4 bolts loose on the housing. I have the nut off of the impellor. It appears to be a little rusted where it is joined. What is the secret to getting it off? I could heat the housing and carelly tap it off. Any other tricks from a person who has done this before? Thanks

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Mark Faught, 92 ext cab service truck and a 84 crew cab one ton dually with a 91 cummins and NV 4500.

 

[David Phipps/Mike Hurd]

Mark, Your talking bout the hotend housing correct? I never did pull the nut off the impeller #ad
Maybe thats why I pull 24lbs boost. Try PB Blaster or other good penatrating lube. Let it sit. DO NOT hit the vanes, shaft, anything assoc. with the turbo shaft. Lightly tap the case hotend housing, that will come of dont get in a rush !!! Mine was on in a hr after soaking it good. Mike

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http://hometown. aol.com/hotshothauler/myhomepage/business.html 2000, CTD 3500, Air brakes on truck & trailer. 210,000 miles todate. DOT custom built sleeper unit. pulling a 40' G/N flatbed
2000 FL-70 Pulling a 48' low boy. 211,000 miles
Just bought another 92 D-350 215 P-Pump motor and NV 4500 180,000 miles 24 lbs boost all stock For now

 

[fastmark]

Yes, the hotend is what I am changing. I will put the nut back on the impellor. I am putting a 12 cm housing on. I am out of penetrating fuild so I will get some tomm.

 

[Matt S]

Are the 4 bolts the ones on the turbo with the two 'holders'? They need to come off and then I put penetrating oil on it. About an hour later and a few light whacks with a rubber mallet got it off.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors

 

[Old Nordby]

Yep. Oil it. Find something else to do for an hour. Even after waiting, I ended up having to hit it pretty hard to get the housing off though - light whacks with a rubber mallet did not get it done.

Jon

 

[fastmark]

A little penetrating oil and a ball peen alignment probe did the trick. I was just not wanting to force anything. I have learned my lessons on that.

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Mark Faught, 92 ext cab service truck and a 84 crew cab one ton dually with a 91 cummins and NV 4500.

 

[Scot]

Fastmark, are you insulting my motto?
Force to fit.
File to hide.
Paint to cover.
#ad

 

[fastmark]

Weeeell, the last thing I got "tough" with was the fuel filter on my wifes mini van. It lost. I broke the fuel pump return line! A very expensive fuel filter indeed.

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Mark Faught, 92 ext cab service truck and a 84 crew cab one ton dually with a 91 cummins and NV 4500.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hi fastmark,

I read the tap it,wack it, beat it, ideas and thought there had to be one more new way. With my luck one of the above would surely have bent a vane or something. So. . after some thought and lots of liquid wrench, what I did was to place the box end of a wrench between the bolt heads and the center part of the housing. Slowly turn each of the 4 bolts out till they contact the spacer (box end of wrench) and then go to the next. The leverage you get using the bolt threads is perfect for the job. It will start to work the hot end housing off bit by bit until it just pops loose. You can use anything as a spacer actually. Just be sure to not go too far with just one bolt as you back it out or you'll "cock" the housing in its recess. Don't forget to use some anit-seize compound on the bolts when you reinstall them.
Hope that makes sense. Let me know if not and I'll try again.
Regards, Bush'

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93. 5 D250 4X4,HD Spring Pkg, Rancho 7000's, Rear Swaybar,Dual Shock Front Stabilizer,BD Injectors,31/2" Mandrel bent exhaust,16cm 'Hot End',Modest Pump Tweaks/Timed,K&N Air,Isspro Pyro,Tach,transmission Temp,Auto Meter Oil Filled Boost Ga. , 3:54's, 4 Speed Auto, Clubcab, Aftermarket Reclining Buckets w/ctr Drop Down seat/console, Black over Silver, 21psi,285-65R-16's,American Racing Clear Coat Mags, Amsoil 15W-40HD Marine,12,000 lb. Warn Winch,KC Spots. 101,300 Kms (63,000 mi's).

 

[hdm48]

I'll share a little secret with you. DO soak the joint with PB blaster for at least an hour. then, take the unit into the house[make sure your wife is gone first] and preheat a burner on your stove to high. then place the hot end of the turbo on the burner with the intake end pointing up. when you feel the housing getting warm to the touch near the joint take it off the burner and place it REAL CLOSE to a piece of carpet or foam [the hot end] and gently tap it with a SOFT [aluminum or brass] mallet and it should fall off. be VERY carefull not to mark-narf-0r damage the impeller[this is a bad thing]. if this doesen't work, start at the begining and soak it longer. but befor you start all of this, price a new turbo and your attention span will increase by a facto of 12. good luck.

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late 91,pump+25%,pw's,16cm,fresh air,3 1/2 exaust,trans-boost-exaust-oil temp guages, pumped auto,180. 000m,all black and will run a pumped powerchoke into the dirt

 

[Shrimpy]

I find that using 1/4" drive sockets on all bolts and nuts keeps me in check in the brute force department. Or if all else fails stip it out then back off a 1/4' turn!!!

Speaking of housings, when I changed mine I was ultra careful and still had a shoulder washer break on the inside of the turbo. It is situated on the intake side and looks like a washer with an extension machined on it. The shaft slides thru this extension and the washer area chipped off on either side. About 75% of the area of the washer was gone. I don't think my tapping did it, the guy who rebuilt it felt that it was getting ready to let go and the tapping just accelerated it. No turbo damage, just a low frequency whine at speed and a metallic sound at shut down. When it was rebuilt the shaft run out was perfect and the blades were all O. K. That was about 6 months ago with no other problems.

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92 Ext. Cab, Auto trans. , 3. 54 Non-LS, Isspro Tach, 16 cm housing, PW injectors, no name 3 Gauge cluster, 230,000+ miles, straight pipe, old and abused but still running strong!!!!

 

[R.E. Miller]

All good advice here, and this was my experiance. I had to actually heat my housing up carefully and wack it pretty hard to get it to budge. Not as easy as if the truck was new. I asked a guy at Cummins Power Systems how they get their housings separated, praying that they would say that they had a press or something other then a hammer..... nope "we beat them off... " Anyway, use care, oil, and a contained temper, and your on your way to more power #ad


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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" Jardine, Swiss cheese air box
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell

 

[Big Don]

Something that may help is to back the four clamping bolts out until they touch the intake housing and then turn each another 1/4-1/2 turn to snug them up. This works to push the housings apart. With the "preload" applied to the housings, tap the exhaust housing. This usually helps me. All these are good suggestions. Something else to keep in mind. You do not want to "cock" the housing as you are removing or installing as it will allow contact with the rotor blades. I try to spin the impeller some while removing the housing as this lets me know if anything is in a bind. If so , tap it back together and try again.

later
Don



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Ol' Blue "First of the first gens: 1989 D 250 Ice blue met. 5 spd 3. 54, 155,000, Banks stage III powerpack, 3. 5" straight exhaust, pump adjustments, "'Ol Blue Special" injectors.
1999 3500 4x4 Chassis cab Emerald green ISB 5 spd 4. 10 K&N Filter straight exhaust 9 ft flatbed WARN fenderflares,Let, 275hp injectors installed, boost and pyro gages, VA plug'n power and Practical Solutions boost module. Jacobs E brake. Getting ready to install Banks Power Pack TLC!!
May buy another one in 2009!!
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