Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) charging problem

[JKouzez]

well did my kdp sunday and i guess it was just a quincidence later that evening my alternator went out. i took it to two different places and they both said it was dead. i bought a new one bolted it up and my voltmeter still reads low at the first wite line any ideas?

 

[ndurbin]

Bad connection maybe? Check engine light on/off?



Nathan

 

[Andy Redmond]

Ck. 120-140 amp fuse in power dist. box. Bet the hot wire on the back of the altenator got shorted to something metal. It only takes a spark?



If not, did you reconnect the ground strap underneath the water inlet housing (bolt head 13mm).



Hmm it tests bad? Odd how it would take a dive just from being disturbed from its mount.



My . 02, let us know what you find. What does your DVM say when attached to the battery terminals when at idle etc. . ?



Andy

 

[JKouzez]

batterys tested good at sams where i bought the batts. the guy recomended driving it for a day and if i still have problems to bring it back. i dont know the truck is just as quick to start up as always voltmeter just reads a little low.

 

[Kirwin]

Is your tachometer working?

The RPM sensor located on top of the vibration dampener under the fan drive pulley can prevent the PCM from seeing engine RPM and thus will not turn on the alternator field. You may have disturbed it or not have the correct clearence and thus no alternator field. Its mounted to one of the bolts for the gear case cover. Is the tachometer working correctly? If so I'd still check the clearence and connection to the RPM sensor. Hope this helps. Ken Irwin

 

[JKouzez]

wow how did you guess it when i did my kdp sunday we forgot to hook the tach back up i did not think it was a big deal hmmm im not sure if i can take the fan off and hook the sensor back up by myself.

 

[Kirwin]

That's what we're here for

Just thought that it might be the problem. I've found little things on/in the TDR that have saved me a great deal of heartache (and probably the green stuff too). Glad you got it fixed. There are fewer and fewer mechanics in the world and more and more parts replacers! Ken Irwin

 

[crabman]

Electrical Connector

JK,

You should not have to remove the fan to hookup the electrical connector for the RPM sensor. The connectors(male & female) should be on the block behind the top radiator hose, underneath the wiring that comes/goes to the the alt. and where the inlet/outlet for the heater goes/comes into the block. Just pull the hose toward the front and look. Put some dielectic grease on the connections before connecting.

crabman

 

[JKouzez]

ok i checked every connector everything is hooked up and still no tach bad sensor maybe?

 

[K5IP]

The engine speed sensor connector can be a real troouble spot, I have to keep mine wired together with a nylon tie before it works. Again, one more time, clean it check it and tie the whole mess together.

Rog

 

[Willys]

figured I'd bring this back to the top to find out the status of your truck, JKouzez. Mine is giving the same toubles- no tach reading, voltmeter low. Alt. doesn't seem to be charging when we test it. Just installed a new water pump. This all started when I heard an unusual rustly noise from the front of the engine, sounded like it might be the bearings going out in the water pump so I replaced it. The sound is still there, so I thought it might be the tach sensor but it doesnt appear to be rubbing anything. Didn't notice the non-functioning tach until after the water pump was on. So I suppose I might have bumped a connection. Can the fan clutch make a rustly noise if its not engaged completely, or going out? Andy

 

[JKouzez]

well on mine it took about ten miniutes to fix the sensor was just a little to far from the harmonic balancer. the way i was told to do it was to take a piece of cardboard place it between the sensor and balancer and that should give you the perfect spacing. hope this helps good luck