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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cheap but excellent way to get rid of 47RE cooler line check valve.

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:) I removed the line from the transmission and at the top of the check valve housing tube where it connects to the exchanger. There are line separators that unclip easily when removing the one line. I then put the check valve hose assembly in a vise and was able to remove the aluminum line from the pressed hose check valve assembly. I couldn't get the lower connection off the tube while in the truck and I realized taking out the complete hose assembly was faster. I used a real long screwdriver to knock out the RUBBER check valve ball out of the flexable pipe that's about 8" long. I knocked it out in the same direction the spring pushed. It came out pretty easy. I then pushed out the spring till I could get it with long nose pliers. There is also a little metal band that was behind the spring I removed the same way. Now I have the check valve removed at zero cost. The tube was going to cost me $60. 00 to make. Pretty quick fix. Of course use a clean screwdriver and clean off the exterior of your pipe before doing it in. Budda Bing! Herb:rolleyes:
 
I thought the check valve was to prevent the fluid from draining out of the converter when the truck was parked . I remember something in posts about the truck not moving when first put in gear after sitting for a while .
 
This is true. My rebuilt transmission company recommended removing it for more flow or the warranty wasn't good. I just start in neutral and the pump will fill it up soon. I didn't notice any difference today.
 
I would have gone to another transmission company. No reputable transmission shop would suggest you do something to your truck that forces you to: start your truck, put it in neutral, wait for it to pump up, and then put it in gear. I would kick that guy's *****. How about damage caused to your transmission while you wait for fluid pressure. ATS warrentees my transmission for five years unlimited miles without removing the check valve. Many others do too. NO WAY I WOULD DO THAT TO MY TRUCK!!! Good luck though.
 
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Most High Perfromance transmission builders Modify the Valve Body so that the transmission pumps fluid thru the cooler in all the time, The factory set-up does not pump fliud in park. That's way the Owners Manual says to check the fluid and to cool an overheated transmission in Neutral. In my case, I had more of no motion @ start up with the orginal set up. FWIW, Moose
 
I'll take the removed check valve scenario any day after my experience. The trans seized at 33,000 miles and when they tore it down the culprit was a stuck check valve. After a total rebuild (was under warranty) the check valve was history. I experienced either no delay or a few seconds delay of having full pressure after starting the truck in neutral. The check valve also restricts the fluid flow. I imagine the check valve is installed by the factory, as not many truck buyers would accept a trans that's not ready to go at the moment the starter is done spinning. Everyone has to do what makes them feel comfortable.
 
WOW, Good for you MDW. With all due respect, I don't care what a sales clerk from AAMCO TRANSMISSION has to say. OK, I'm done being childish. There are only a few transmission shops around "known" for remanufacturing a "decent" 47re. ATS, Sunshine, Goerend Transmission to name a few. The professionals address the flow issues in the valve body. Something the corner transmission shop has no ability to do. I mean machine work to the valve body, not a hole drilled in the plate and a spring stretch like we used to do with the turbo 350's, 400's and a B&M shift kit. The aftermarket converter and pump also address flow.



Did you notice a difference in the way the transmission shifts. Probably not. That is because the check ball restriction is minimal. I'm not saying there is never a reason to remove the check ball. Lord knows I have done many things to race cars and swamp buggies that I would never do to a street vehicle. Now for a transmission shop to hold back a warrentee, if the check ball is not removed, is unexcusable(if that is a word).



The purpose for this forum is to gain and share information. Take "everyone's" opinion/information with a grain of salt. Take what advise works for you. I care what each and every person has to say, even you MDW. I learn something everyday that way. Thanks to all.
 
I kinda think it's funny you would choose to compare HotRodDiesels to a corner transmission shop.

I mean, his place isn't even on a corner. :D

As far as his credentials, MDW has built transmissions for some of the highest HP trucks in the country. I've also been down there when he's rebuilding those purple transmissions with the check ball still in them.

The transmission he built for my truck is still going strong after 3 years and over 60,000 miles. And ask anyone who has ridden with me, I'm not easy on my truck. The 100+ 20psi boosted launches at the drag strip haven't even hurt it.
 
FYI, the reason the check ball (it's really a plastic widgit) sticks, is the transmission oil gets it hot and the widgit gets soft, then on cool down it sticks to it's seat and plugs the line. :eek:
 
I was merely making a joke. Sorry if I never heard of the transmission shop you are refering to. I'm sure it is a competent, with competent employees. If they're as good as you say they are, I'm sure they would still warranty the transmission if I insisted on keeping check ball. I just don't want the transmission to pump back up to get pressure after I park it. I would rather take my business elsewhere. Thats all I'm saying. I appologize if I hurt anyones feelings.



Maybe someone can develop a matal checkball that is less proned to stick. I'm sure that crazy sort of technology is out there.



I would have definately picked a different color than purple. Sure was "pretty" before it went in though.
 
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I should of painted my truck transmission red(not Colorado purple) to match the red transmission fluid I lost tonight. That stupid hose with check valve blew out where the factory crimp on the bottom is/was! I have transmission juice from one end to another and had to be towed. Plan on seeing about maybe a line built at an auto parts jobber that builds these lines. I'm glad it wasn't last week when we had a foot of snow! Herb
 
My check valve was gone when the line was replaced. If the VB is modified, it will pump fluid as soon as the engine starts turning while in park. By the time you get ready to go (unless it's been parked a few days), it will have pressure.



Remember, the guys that put the check valve in there also limited your boost to about 20 psi, your RPM to about 2,500 and your EGT to boring.
 
georend told be to take the check valve out on my buddys 04. I think we can all agree he is very knowlegable on dodge transmissions
 
I agree. I too spoke with Georend via email to further educate myself on the subject. He does "recommend" removing the check valve. I he also modifies the valve body so you don't have to wait. He will also warranty the transmission if you chose not to remove it. That's the difference.
 
i haven't had a check valve in mine for about 10 years now,,and i have a transmission set up from a HIGHLY qualified transmission shop,,,never noticed any difference before or after,,the 3 or 4 seconds it takes to reprime doesn't bother me in the least,,,i'll take the increase cooler flow over a check valve any day...
BUT,,,not honoring a warranty because of it,,is a bit odd,,
 
Herb,

My 95 2500 developed a BAD on that hose (fluid runnig out) 1000000 back.

I had a hydraulic make me a new hose for about $7. 00.

Just hose and fittings and no check valve.

Dodge wanted $300 for a replacement!!

If it sets for a while it take a 6-8 second to pump up and go.

No problem since and transmission checked at this 100,000 checkup.

Everyday driver fo 10 years.

Rex Mckinney 1995 2500 pretty much stock.
 
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