chebbie p/u for a beater truck?

[OKish]

im going to need a 4x4 truck soon, im moving out of the city and out to the country in about a month. alot of people have mile long mud drives and the snow gets bad. i was looking at a 1987 silverado with a FI 350 and th700r4. the owner is asking 1500 and it has the rustbelt body, the rest of the truck is tip top and drives straighter than an arrow. what do you guys think?

 

[rubberneck]

Just the drivetrain is worth more than 1500 i'd say go for it and drive it like you stole it. When the body finally rusts completely out and falls apart, part it out.

 

[CSnyder]

The 1987 Chevy trucks were the only year of the TBI and if it is original under the air cleaner you will not be dissapointed in it for a winter beater. They always start even in the worst of conditions and old fuel doesnt scare it so storing it from season to season wont be an issue unless the fuel tank rots off. I bought one this spring for a wood hauler and ended up selling it because it was uncomfortable riding in. Im picky though. Mine had been restored several years before I bought it and was perfect mechanically but was starting to rust and I got 1125 out of it on Ebay. I think if you shopped around you could get a better deal than that particular one. I replaced my 87 with a 96 GMC SLE 2500 for 3500 and it only needed front brakes and ball joints and is otherwise very clean. Best of luck! Chris

 

[OKish]

Here's a few pics of the truck.



#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad




the rust is all the way through, but resto parts for this truck is dirt cheap. patch panels to replace the rusted sections would be roughly 100 bucks. the truck has a 3 year old crate 350, a th700r4 with 8 months on a full rebuild, working a/c, heat and cruise, 2 new fender wells, solid axle front end, new ball joints, new water pump, new heater core, and a new dual flowmaster exhaust. whatcha guys still think?

 

[TowPro]

Check the cab mounts. Also check the throttle shaft bushings. I have seen them with a lot of play in them where the bushing is worn out. Expescialy if you need to pass emissions with it. Holly makes a replacment Throttle Body that is cheeper then factory, but if I recall, its still not cheep. My brothers 305 went over 300,000 miles, and the 700 went 250,000 miles. It was a leak that killed the trans, fluid leaked out and he kept driving, causing the clutch packs to go out.

 

[OKish]

Check the cab mounts. Also check the throttle shaft bushings. I have seen them with a lot of play in them where the bushing is worn out. Expescialy if you need to pass emissions with it. Holly makes a replacment Throttle Body that is cheeper then factory, but if I recall, its still not cheep. My brothers 305 went over 300,000 miles, and the 700 went 250,000 miles. It was a leak that killed the trans, fluid leaked out and he kept driving, causing the clutch packs to go out.

emissions? whats that? is that where they stick probes up your trucks ***? no emissions here! i have to drive about 2 hours to see the truck. maybe monday.

 

[bmoeller]

Just the drivetrain is worth more than 1500 i'd say go for it and drive it like you stole it. When the body finally rusts completely out and falls apart, part it out.

I'd do the same.

 

[Bill Lins]

I've got a 1988 Chevy V-30 (old style body, 1-ton crew cab) with the 350 TBI, SM 465 4-speed with a Brown-Lipe hi-lo box, NP 205, & Dana 60 front & Corporate 14 bolt rear axles. Bought it new as a chassis cab, so it has the heavy frame. The body's about to rust off of it. Does anybody know where I can find one of those "Bummer" fiberglas Hummer replica body kits or something similiar?