Here I am

Check engine codes came up

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Help with unusual turbo problem

Transmission service

Status
Not open for further replies.

cricha

TDR MEMBER
Three codes came up
P003A
P00AF
U010C
I’m on a road trip, and I don’t know what these codes are. Question is, are they serious, and should I go to a shop, or can I still finish my vacation?
Any help would be appreciated!! tHANKS!!
2017 3500 SRW 4x4 pulling a 6K trailer
 
Looks like you have a VGT Actuator issue. I can tell you what the codes are but someone more knowledgeable can help from here.

upload_2023-8-26_11-13-50.png
Th

upload_2023-8-26_11-15-48.png

upload_2023-8-26_11-16-28.png


upload_2023-8-26_11-17-40.png

upload_2023-8-26_11-18-30.png
 
@cricha, How many hours on the truck? Have you been loosing boost and EB? Those are the same same codes that I dealt with from failing turbo actuator. You can reset them a few times to regain boost and EB but will be a time that you'll not have them. Try clearing them and see how long it take them to return. If your 4K hours and above, you're on borrowed time as mine failed between 4K and 5K. If it's a lot less then 4K hours, could just be a glitch and disconnecting the batteries for a reset could fix. If things come back and other issues, the actuator through Genos is the way to go!
 
2800 hrs on engine. I can reset the codes with the edge cts. Have reset twice. EB doesn’t seem to be working, cts shows boost up to 22#.boost varies with gear and pedal position
 
@cricha, I'd keep an eye on it for sure! All 3 codes came and went when I was dealing with my actuator failing. Anything is possible with the turbo actuator combo. You could have a coolant leak in the actuator cause the electronics to be failing. If you've lost EB, that's tell tale sign of the vanes not moving. On start up, do you hear the turbo vanes going through self check? If you run to long without the vanes moving, there is a risk of them becoming stuck and then needing a whole turbo setup! Big $$$! Actuator isn't a horrible thing to replace. You'll have to drain coolant, fight getting to one of the bolts behind the shock tower. There's a trick to that one, line up a 1/8 drill bit through tower, if on target, then enlarge to get bit through to socket head bolt. I had to do mine just before this past Christmas when it wasn't to warm since I have no garage to work in. The City Diesel units are the way to go, plug and play! Standing by to help. :cool:
 
Ok guys, thanks for the input! Trying to understand better how the pcm works together with the vgt actuator and possibly the trans (Aisin). So some more questions. Last week I experienced total dead pedal when getting on the fwy. Let off the pedal. Couple times and it cam back. No cel. Further down the road (was towing my trailer) I noticed the EB not working. No cel then either. Trans would be hunting gears when going up long uphills, a lot. Seemed a little low on power.
A common denominator on the code explanations that BigPapa posted had to do with the pcm and connections. Could it be a possibility that the pcm has gone bad and it is not the actuator? What would cause the transmission to be hunting gears when it shouldn’t be? Would a pcm reset help at all?
I know, a lot of noob questions, but I need to start contacting some mechanics tomorrow and I would like to be able to understand what they’re telling me. I’m still a ways from home and i need to understand what my options may be before Friday. Appreciate ALL the help and advice you folks have offered!
 
If it were my truck, I’d first pull the batteries and have them tested. I’d clean and check the terminals and grounds. Low voltage does crazy things to these trucks and your last post describes this.

As to the transmission hunting, I have no experience with the Aisin, it may be totally different, but I had a cat stop up on a Chevy gasser that made my transmission hunt around and shift crazy. Seems the PCM tries to make the transmission “fit” to the reduced power by trying to find a better gear.
 
BigPapa- long while back had the same transmission issues with my superduty. It threw a couple codes, had them read at a parts house, diagnosis was expensive $$$. Asked if they knew a diesel mechanic in the area. Went to that guy and explained the issues. He took it for a test drive came back and said he would fix it for 300 and I would be back on my way. He did, ran great. Found out later he just emptied the cat. So I know a problem seems like one thing but can be something from left field. Difficult when your knowledge base is limited. Hence the questions. Always got good advice here. I’ll check the batt terminals. Dash readout says batt volts at 13.8. I’ll have them checked at a shop asap. Thanks for the input!
 
Sure the transmission starts to hunt for gears if the engine doesn't deliver the hp/torque that is expected at a certain rpm/ throttle position.
This is all a fully integrated computer system, if you don't know how that all works together it is best to see a reputable dealership to examine the problem. These trucks are incredible sophisticated units and have very little in common with something just 20 years older.
 
Ozymandias- I agree. Having the vgt actuator replaced is a dealer job because it needs to be programmed. At least this is what I understand. Dealers anywhere around where I am are booking a month out. Can’t get in to any of them. Kinda stuck. Exploring all options at this point.
if anyone knows of a reputable mechanic in the bishop, CA area, please post any contact info you have. I would greatly appreciate it. Any suggestions or advice is welcome! THANKS!!
 
The City Diesel unit doesn’t require programming. With over 450 school buses with the 6.7, we go through a lot of the actuators. We’ve always used the Cummins reman’s, but we’re going to the City Diesel units this year.
 
@cricha, I posted earlier in thread that I replaced my actuator with the City Diesel unit that Genos sells for the same price as City direct. Support Genos since they're part of TDR forum. City unit is plug and play, no programming needed! Once mine was in and ready to start, started truck and check light cleared right away. I did mine in late Dec, out side in gravel driveway! Worst part is you'll have to drain the coolant before replacement and install is very clear to make sure things are dry. Look here as there are install directions;
https://www.genosgarage.com/product...uator-gear-housing-cm-actkit2013/engine-turbo
Truck seems to run a lot better compared to the time prior to the failure. Reviews also state the same. If you can turn wrenches and have basic tool set, can be done pretty easily. Pulling the passenger wheel helps a lot! Good luck with finding shop if needed.
 
BigPapa- using the city diesel actuator would be my choice. Being 375 miles from home and towing my trailer kinda complicates things a little. I was looking at dealers first because there will be a warranty on the work and the biggest concern would be parts availability. I understand the backlog at city diesel has gone away, so a unit could be shipped quickly. I would need to find a shop because I’m not equipped to fix it where I am. So, looking for a qualified shop now. I’m going to try and get the batts tested this morning as you suggested. Open for suggestions for sure. THANKS!!
 
City Diesel carries at least 1yr warranty and is a stronger unit then stock unit. Stock unit built with 4k hours electronics where City unit is built with 20K hours components. More motor torque to move the vanes then stock. Dealer cost would be close to 3 times the price then going with the City unit. Call Genos to see how much express shipping would be to get to you quickly. Post up a thread about finding a shop near where you're at. That way it may grab the attention of someone who'll know the area. Good luck.
 
These code explanations are very helpful. After watching the install vid from city diesel, they listed one other code P0046. If you could post that info page, I would greatly appreciate it! Another comment that was made on the vid was that if the only codes that were thrown were P003A and P00AF, then it’s probably the actuator. If codes U010C and P0046 show up there very well could be other issues and a diagnostic check is recommended before buying parts.
After watching the vid, I would have no problem doing the install with the proper tools I have at home. Not going to happen where I am located currently. So I’m back to looking for a shop that can do the diagnostics…really appreciate all the replies so far!
 
U010C and P0046 can be caused by leaking coolant into the actuator and the electronics are failing. You'll need to confirm that the turbo vanes are moving and not bound up from excess carbon or damage. Do you hear the actuator cycling when you wait to start? if you hear this, then the vanes are able to move and there isn't a turbo issue.
 
So I’m back to looking for a shop that can do the diagnostics…really appreciate all the replies so far!

I'd recommend to open a new thread which has in the Titel that you are looking for a workshop and in which area. So more people will see it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top