Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Check Engine Light - Again!?

[Joe Mc]

Just this past Monday (12/20) CEL came on and I posted here - see "Dreaded Check Engine Light - from the 20th.



Last night happened again. Had been running around a bit and stopped at work for 10 mins. Went through usual start routine, turn key & engine turned over normal but no start. With out cycling key off I tried to start again, just cranked along. Turned key off and back on - 0 psi on LP gage. Thought LP went out, then realized I had just tried to start it so the LP wouldn't kick on. Turned key and it fired right up? Only thing I noticed the CEL was on. I'm trying to figure this out and notice the tach bouncing from idle (800) back to 0??? WTF?! I increased rpms a bit and the bouncing stopped, then I noticed a strange sound from the engine compartment - kind of a low blowing sound - hard to explain. I put in gear to pull forward some and get under a soffit light in hopes to pop the hood and inspect - then the noise stopped. I checked all the turbo hoses day before when fueling up? I'm stumped - truck runs fine no loss of performance etc. I disconnected the batteries last night with plans of checking all grounds (especially on the PTS noise filter for the APPS), engine to body, body to frame, clean IAT sensor, and reprogram APPS.



Any ideas??? I'd hate to post on 911 as I'm not in dire straights yet.



Happy Holidays to you and yours.



Joe Mc

 

[Joe Mc]

Update

Checked everything mentioned earlier - cleaned IAT, reprogramed APPS, checked grounds. Thought I got lucky when I dound a small wire that looked pinched by the inj pump plug - it was OK. CEL still on - So, I'm off to a buddy's house to see if he has a 99 module for his Snap-On Scan tool. Wish me luck. More to follow

 

[WTBurke]

Joe,

Do you have any locked codes in the ECU or PCU ? You know... turn the key on and off three times (don't start motor) and read what comes up in the odometer window.

Sorry dude... hope you have a Merry Christmas.



William

 

[Joe Mc]

WT - Sorry, I should have mentioned that my truck is an early 99 and doesn't have the ability to display codes on the odometer - unfortunately. I've already tried the three key deal a few years back just to be sure. I bought a code reader @ Sears yesterday and plan to see what the deal is. No CEL when I started up today. We went somewhere and stopped for about a half hour, when I started it up and began driving there was a definite stumble and almost like it was going to stall CEL came on and stayed on - I had to keep foot on go and stop pedal to keep it going - tach was bouncing to 0 and back like crazy then it just acted like nothing was wrong and went about it's way - CEL still on. Will check and see what codes are in tomorrow. Keeping my fingers, toes and everything else crossed that it's not too bad. Think it could be crank sensor??? Just got done dumping my PC and reinstalling everything - when it rains it pours. We'll see about the codes in the AM. Merry Christmas.

 

[CSnyder]

I had the exact same thing happen and replaced my MAP thinking that was it and when it did it again I bought the crank sensor and whalaaaaaa it fixed the problem. I also had no codes appear with the problem.

 

[DBoyd]

I had the same symptoms except for the noise. Crank sensor from the local Cummins Freighliner dealer fixed the problem.

 

[Joe Mc]

Hooked up the $149. 00 OBD II Scantool this morning - as thought and also you guys found code "PO336 - Crank Sensor, A CKT Range/Perf. " And PO1690 - this is just a generic manufacturer's code - yes.



Three questions - 1). How much is the crank sensor? Local Cummins shop open till 5 PM tomorrow. 2). Shouldn't hurt driving with this condition? I cleared codes. and 3). Reason I thought it might be the C-Sensor is, I have a small oil leak where the mechanical fuel pump would have been if it wasn't a 24 valver. Is is possible that the oil is getting to the C-Sensor and interfeering with it's function, and if I clean the area with engine gunk and fix leak could this deter need for new C-Sensor, and the fun involved with installation in the driveway? It's cold out there and isn't due to warm up till next weekend.

 

[DBoyd]

I went ahead and drove mine with no ill effects. Do go to the Cummins engine dealer instead of Dodge parts to save a little money. And try to take the old one with you cause there is something about an additional pigtail to get it plugged into the harness. I can't find my old one but do a search on the site and you might find the part number. Best bet is to take the old one. And no, you can't seal the oil leak and postpone the install cause this unit runs in oil normally. Undo the battery cable at the battery, then drop the starter and it is right there on the side of the block. It is held in with a retainer. Undo the retainer and pull the unit out. Be sure to clean the bore before installing the new one. Put a little oil or grease on the new o ring and put the new unit in, replace the retainer, bolt the starter back in and hook up the batteries and you are good to go. An hour's job approx. Some have had a problem getting the old CPS out. Just go slow and wiggle and twist it and try not to break it off.

 

[Joe Mc]

Thanks - DBoyd - I love this site!



Oh yeah, how much are we talking here under $100. 00 for the sensor?



And, since I have the started out I may as well get the HD contacts installed. Anyone remember who to contact for them?



Thanks

 

[Beast2B]

LarryB is the guy for the contacts. http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins/ for his website

 

[Joe Mc]

Got the contacts from LarryB and the sensor from Cummins - the weather is with me and I should be able to do tomorrow.

 

[TBrown]

I just changed my crank position sensor tongiht. It was $23 from cummins. I will be looking to see if they have another one tomorrow, the new one is wrecked also. I have a problem with the tone wheel tearing up my sensor and don't know why yet. Have posted in 911 and am hoping someone can help me. I changed it in the driveway tonight in a snow ice and water, at least it is 45 degrees out. At least i got it in the garage now.

 

[Joe Mc]

Done and short note to TBrown

Installed new Crank Sensor, LarryB's Super Contacts and fixed minor oil leak. Oil leak was from an aftermarket small block Chevy fuel pump block off plate that I used to cover the hole where pre VP 44 mechanical fuel lift pump used to go. This hole was revealed when I moved the LP back by the tank and removed the factory LP mount. Any way he aftermarket block off plate was slightly bowed and allowed oil to pass at the bottom - placed plate in a vise and gave it a swift wack with a hammer to give a slight concave bow and all is well.



TBrown - I think I recall reading here that the best way to get the pan off is to lift the engine a bit as it won't clear the crossmember with the front diff in the way. Sorry to hear the ring is loose or whatever hope it's simple to fix as getting the pan off is major PIA from the looks of it. I guess the silver lining could be you can clean the sump screen and insides of the pan. Good luck to you.