Check engine light stays on

[DFark]

My 2005 Dodge Cummins has 77,000 mi. and the check engine light came on a couple months ago, then went off and on for a while and is now on all the time. Truck seems to be running fine. Checked for codes with Flashpaq tuner and nothing showed up. I run it in tow mode most of the time, but switched to stock setting just to see if I could get the light to go off. It did not. Where to now the dealer??

Thanks

 

[JApol]

start with the key off. turn on, off, on, off. on, off, on. Look at the odometer and the code should pop up there. write quick because they only show for a couple of seconds. When you see done that is the end of the codes.

Please reply back with the codes.

 

[DFark]

Hi JA, only one code popped up and it was P0243. Thanks for your help.

Doug

 

[stevelauer]

P0243 Open or shorted condition detected in the turbocharger Wastegate solenoid Ctrl.

 

[DFark]

Steve , is that just a simple matter of replacing the solenoid ? I guess it could be wiring as well if there is a short.
Thanks

 

[stevelauer]

Sorry, I'm not a tech - I just looked up the code. There a several threads discusssing the W/G. I'm sure someone can help you there.

 

[EDankievitch]

I had this happen to my truck as well. I found the Pass side Neg Batt cable had rubbed against the wire going to the waste gate actuator once the insulation chafed through and salt got into the wire the wire failed. It was a simple fix to change the actuator Sorry I don't have the part number, and No Dodge does not show it as a replacement part As I recall it was under $125...

 

[DFark]

That is exactly what happened to mine, ED. It was the negative batt. cable rubbed the insulation. Does the actuator just unscrew from the housing? Thanks , Doug

 

[cerberusiam]

That is exactly what happened to mine, ED. It was the negative batt. cable rubbed the insulation. Does the actuator just unscrew from the housing? Thanks , Doug

Yes, they just unscrew. You can crimp the boost reference line to get the boost back or install a boost elbow in the line to do the same thing. If you don't want to replace the control a 100 ohm 1/4 amp resistor wired across the plug from the ECU will turn off the CEL.



About $30 and you can have control of the turbo back and no CEL.

 

[DFark]

So, cerberusiam does that mean I leave the faulty unit in place in the housing if I crimp the line? I'm not sure what you mean by a boost elbow. Thanks for the info. The new controller through Cummins is $ 243. 00 and new o-rings are not available I'm told.

 

[cerberusiam]

So, cerberusiam does that mean I leave the faulty unit in place in the housing if I crimp the line? I'm not sure what you mean by a boost elbow. Thanks for the info. The new controller through Cummins is $ 243. 00 and new o-rings are not available I'm told.

For the cost of these things and if the o-rings are not available just leave it in place.



A boost elbow is just a fitting with a screw that allows adjusting how much boost gets thru, its what we use on non-electronic WG's to control them. Go to Ebay and search for boost elbow or call one of the turbo manufacturers to get what you need.



Go to radio shack and get a resistor and put it in the ECU end of the harness to turn off the CEL. The turbo makes have a plug in module that will do the same thing if you want pre-made.

 

[DFark]

I changed the solenoid, Cummins part number 4036054. Cost 238. 00. Dodge does not show it as a replacement part you have to go through Cummins.