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Check gages, running rough when voltage spikes - SOLVED

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Rebuilding a common rail ctd

throttle questions

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I have finally solved the issue, but first let me describe my problem. Everything started when the truck died on the freeway (in July- dash out, P2509). At the time I thought replacing the original batteries fixed the problem, but I was wrong. Then I started getting a "Check Gages" light, and rough ilde. The voltage was constantly changing from 14-16+ volts, then it would settle at 14. 2 and everything would be fine. It sounded bad enough to park it.



What I tried...



1) New Batteries (tested one set, eventually swapped in a second set), and tested battery temp sensor - no change

2) Clean and inspect all ground cables - no change

3) Bypassed the cross over cable - no change

4) Replace the alternator - no change

5) Had the dealership test it (a very difficult thing for me to do) - the said it was the ECM

6) I replaced the ECM - no change. At this point I knew I was in for a lot more work. I figured the voltage regulator in the ECM was bad causing the irregular voltage.

7) Load tested the alternator - pass up to 120amps without a hint of issues.

8) what the heck do i do now??? It has been parked for months now. So, I started mapping voltages and currents. nothing seemed out of place- I really thought the high amp draw of the heaters was the issue - mapping proved that was not the case.

9) Noticed the negative battery cable slightly out of the terminal. Made a bypass - everything seemed to be perfect. The truck ran for 30min without issues! Shut the hood for test drive- idle surge, started running rough.

10) after a few f bombs, i was done for the day. i knew it was wiring, but needed a break.

11) wire wiggle. start wiggling wires while running with the code reader on. Wiggled a wire and the truck shut off... P2509 - PERFECT. The wire... specifically... 8W-20-4 in the service manual. It is the power wire from the integrated power module (fuses) to the ECM. I cut out the old mess, built a new wire (with fusible link), and the truck runs great. This is day one, but I don't have any idle or voltage issues.



I hope this helps someone else. I have been working on this since July, it was parked in September. I am happy to be back on the road!
 
good job Mangler, is it possible to snap a picture of this wire? And thank you for sharing, I always appreciate when an issue is resolved and the poster shares their findings.
 
Mangler,

That was excellent automotive detective work. Not everyone is capable or sufficiently determined to pursue a problem to its solution as you did. Thanks for the report.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I will post a picture of the wire tonight. I cut apart the connections, and couldn't find where the failure was (yet). I have a few more tests.

Just for reference. The costs were... ~$250 for batteries, $150 Alternator, $580 ECM (programmed, reman), $150 code reader, and $150 for the dealership to test it... approx $1280 in parts. More if I add cables and connectors. I can't imagine to cost if I had the dealership do the work... they wanted $2200 for the ECM alone. Have no idea the cost for someone else to trace the problem. It is sad that the problem was solved with $10 wire/connectors. Glad it is done, and I have a much better understanding of the truck and its systems.
 
Bad Connector 1.jpg


Attached is the image of the wire I replaced. Let me know if the image isn't attached. The problem was a bad connector. I checked resistance on the wire and it was very high and variable. Then checked each joint. It was the connector. Then I took apart the connector and checked the bare connection and everything was fine (almost no resistance, and the connection was good even moving it around). The bad connection seems to be caused by the connector housing. - Probably why I missed it the fist time I checked the connector. At least i know it was a bad connector, and it is fixed. I have put over 100 miles on the truck without any issues.

Bad Connector 1.jpg
 
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