Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
After sinking a bloody fortune into my front steering, suspension, driveshaft, and axle, I have now moved to the rear. And the news is bad.
When my 5th gear nut backed off, I took the truck to a reputable local transmission shop due to time constraints. That was some time ago, and I have had no further transmission problems.
But that coil-link, trackbar, unitized hub, no-lockout, dana 44 shafted, CAD-equipped front axle, bizarre y-style steering, and complex (as in: too many weak and moving parts) frontend eventually made the truck a danger at any speed.
I did all the upgrades. Can't wait to try it.
But amid all the violent shaking from that frontend before the teardown, there was also a "clunk" from the rear. U-joints, no doubt.
I found both my front and rear u-joint strap bolts were loose, as were the straps. My front wasn't too bad, but the rear made me wonder how in the world it even stayed in (the driveshaft). Apparently, the transmission shop did not Loctite and/or torque those teeny-weenie little strap bolts.
Since the truck is 14 years old with 160K and every other "joint" on it was shot, I figured I would just let my local Spicer dealer/driveshaft shop install 3 new u-joints and a new carrier bearing in the rear shaft, as well as sell me new straps and bolts. I already had the entire front driveshaft completely rebuilt and balanced, so make it all new and be done with it for a few years. $65 for a carrier bearing; $21 each for Spicer u-joints (x3); $6 for a strap and bolt kit; $65 labor to install everything; $45 more if i want it all rebalanced. All very reasonable and they are very expert at doing it; but it sure adds up!
Unfortunately, I can now also add a new Dana 80 yoke, seal, and nut to the equation, which bumps the price another $160 or so (with me installing them). Suddenly, with tax, etc, I'm looking at $450 for that rear driveshaft and yoke assembly. $145 for the yoke alone, and it is not even available with u-bolts instead of those crappy straps and bolts. Too much.
It is a very common problem they see all the time on Dodge and Ford dana 80's with those crappy straps and bolts instead of u-bolts. Dana is very specific about NEVER re-using those straps and bolts, but everyone does. They are meant to stretch; ONCE.
After that, your u-joint will eventually start slopping side to side as the already-stretched straps and bolts fail to hold them in place. When that happens, they hammer on the little centering ears of the yoke and wear them. Even as little as 0. 015" wear, which is what my yoke ears show, is too much for such a heavy and long driveshaft to spin off-center at high speeds. The u-joint is supposed to fit tight between the yoke centering ears and is 4. 188 inches across. The distance between the ears on my yoke, once all crud, rust and scale was thoroughly removed and cleaned, measured 4. 203 inches at the widest point. That is a miniscule amount of wear, IMO.
They say the yoke is probably toast, but most guys and shops will just re-use it and pay the price in driveline vibration damage and/or driveshaft/u-joint failure prematurely.
Brian (the shop manager) says you need to check those bolts and watch for signs of loose u-joints and straps frequently. Shiny spots on your u-joint caps are a sure sign, as is rust dust such as you might see around a loose lugnut.
$250 to rebuild and balance the driveshaft was bad enough, but now another $160 for a new yoke and seal and nut is real kick in the 'nards...
I've had it, though. I'm fed up as well as broke from doing the frontend and Christmas all at once. I told him to just do the u-joints and carrier bearing. Forget re-balancing. Forget a new yoke. we have deep snow again and i just need this garage queen on the road plowing some snow. The new straps and u-joints will have to be enough for now. If the u-joint still slops a little from side to side, I'll spotweld the danged caps to the straps.
Don't find yourself here. Check those u-joint straps and bolts!! Spend the $6 for new ones if you remove then for any reason.
When my 5th gear nut backed off, I took the truck to a reputable local transmission shop due to time constraints. That was some time ago, and I have had no further transmission problems.
But that coil-link, trackbar, unitized hub, no-lockout, dana 44 shafted, CAD-equipped front axle, bizarre y-style steering, and complex (as in: too many weak and moving parts) frontend eventually made the truck a danger at any speed.
I did all the upgrades. Can't wait to try it.
But amid all the violent shaking from that frontend before the teardown, there was also a "clunk" from the rear. U-joints, no doubt.
I found both my front and rear u-joint strap bolts were loose, as were the straps. My front wasn't too bad, but the rear made me wonder how in the world it even stayed in (the driveshaft). Apparently, the transmission shop did not Loctite and/or torque those teeny-weenie little strap bolts.
Since the truck is 14 years old with 160K and every other "joint" on it was shot, I figured I would just let my local Spicer dealer/driveshaft shop install 3 new u-joints and a new carrier bearing in the rear shaft, as well as sell me new straps and bolts. I already had the entire front driveshaft completely rebuilt and balanced, so make it all new and be done with it for a few years. $65 for a carrier bearing; $21 each for Spicer u-joints (x3); $6 for a strap and bolt kit; $65 labor to install everything; $45 more if i want it all rebalanced. All very reasonable and they are very expert at doing it; but it sure adds up!
Unfortunately, I can now also add a new Dana 80 yoke, seal, and nut to the equation, which bumps the price another $160 or so (with me installing them). Suddenly, with tax, etc, I'm looking at $450 for that rear driveshaft and yoke assembly. $145 for the yoke alone, and it is not even available with u-bolts instead of those crappy straps and bolts. Too much.
It is a very common problem they see all the time on Dodge and Ford dana 80's with those crappy straps and bolts instead of u-bolts. Dana is very specific about NEVER re-using those straps and bolts, but everyone does. They are meant to stretch; ONCE.
After that, your u-joint will eventually start slopping side to side as the already-stretched straps and bolts fail to hold them in place. When that happens, they hammer on the little centering ears of the yoke and wear them. Even as little as 0. 015" wear, which is what my yoke ears show, is too much for such a heavy and long driveshaft to spin off-center at high speeds. The u-joint is supposed to fit tight between the yoke centering ears and is 4. 188 inches across. The distance between the ears on my yoke, once all crud, rust and scale was thoroughly removed and cleaned, measured 4. 203 inches at the widest point. That is a miniscule amount of wear, IMO.
They say the yoke is probably toast, but most guys and shops will just re-use it and pay the price in driveline vibration damage and/or driveshaft/u-joint failure prematurely.
Brian (the shop manager) says you need to check those bolts and watch for signs of loose u-joints and straps frequently. Shiny spots on your u-joint caps are a sure sign, as is rust dust such as you might see around a loose lugnut.
$250 to rebuild and balance the driveshaft was bad enough, but now another $160 for a new yoke and seal and nut is real kick in the 'nards...
I've had it, though. I'm fed up as well as broke from doing the frontend and Christmas all at once. I told him to just do the u-joints and carrier bearing. Forget re-balancing. Forget a new yoke. we have deep snow again and i just need this garage queen on the road plowing some snow. The new straps and u-joints will have to be enough for now. If the u-joint still slops a little from side to side, I'll spotweld the danged caps to the straps.
Don't find yourself here. Check those u-joint straps and bolts!! Spend the $6 for new ones if you remove then for any reason.
