chevy cummins

[JCalvin]

Hey guys I'm a new member and am going to put a pre 98. 5 cummins 6b into my 97 chevy k2500. I'm planning on putting the conversion from ORU for the straight axle conversion and a NV5600 and a NP 205 in it, and the motor mounts and ac bracket from the auto store out in montana I just can't remember the name of it exactly. Other than that what all other items will need to make my moster come to life. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ScottDavis]

I've got a '95 Suburban with the ORU straight axle conversion that is getting an '05 Cummins, NV5600 and NP241 installed right now at Autoworld in Great Falls, MT (www.autoworldmt.com). Talk to Ken or Dawna. They are both extremely helpful whether you just want to buy parts from them or have them do the whole thing.



Autoworld built me a hybrid NP241 transfer case that had the 29 spline input to mate to the NV5600 and some sort of outpt shaft so the speedometer still works without any other modifications.



I went to the straight axle on my '93 Suburban about 5 years ago because the weight of the winch and front bumper along with 33" tires tore up the IFS when I took it off road. After owning the '93 for 13 years and 240k miles, the '93 needed to be replaced. I could not sell it for much so I took the ORU conversion and Dana 60 front axle off and put them on the '95. I'd recommend using their dual hoop shocks and not trying to use someone else's cheaper hoops.



The ride quality suffers a bit on the road with the straight axle, but it has not been too bad. As you can see I'd do it again.

 

[JCalvin]

Okay thanks for the help thats was the place I was talking about I just couldn't remeber the name. As far as them doing it thought I'm a pretty well knowlegable guy around the gas engine and my brother is a diesel tech so that part we got covered. But if you come up with any other ideas that would help me I would greatly appreciated it.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Okay thanks for the help thats was the place I was talking about I just couldn't remeber the name. As far as them doing it thought I'm a pretty well knowlegable guy around the gas engine and my brother is a diesel tech so that part we got covered. But if you come up with any other ideas that would help me I would greatly appreciated it.

First idea, put kenny's # on speed dial. second idea, buy your accessory parts from him. You may not get the outright best price, but his knowledge you be tapping into for the repower will still get you out ahead in the end. You have to justify him spending time on the phone with you verses a paying customer, its only right to at least buy something from him. Autoworld Hi Lo truck shop: 406 727 8915 Kenny or Dawna Kraus.

Tell him I miss them both.

David

 

[ScottDavis]

Physically fitting the engine into the engine compartment should not be too bad since you will have the ORU straight axle conversion. With the IFS gone, you should be able to drop the engine low enough to clear the hood without the need for a body lift, and you should be able to set it far enough back to run a mechanical fan.



Since your brother is a diesel tech, getting the engine hooked up and running should be a piece of cake.



It's the details that you will find will occupy your time. Getting all the gauges to work, cruise control, tach, etc. will be where you will spend a lot of time. For me, the time required to figure out the details just was not worth it, and that is why I brought my truck to Autoworld.



If you have any specific questions, I'll be glad to help. I may not be able to immediately answer them because I'm not going to see the finished product until mid to late December when I get back in the country.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Physically fitting the engine into the engine compartment should not be too bad since you will have the ORU straight axle conversion. ???I have put 5. 9's into both IFS 4wd and 2wd trucks with no bodylifts or axle conversions. The most I ever had to do to the IFS diffs was slightly shorten the cooling fins on them to allow oil pan clearance. They will fit fine without issue. With the IFS gone, you should be able to drop the engine low enough to clear the hood without the need for a body lift, and you should be able to set it far enough back to run a mechanical fan. I have installed factory Dodge Cummins clutch fans, using a dodge radiator and innercooler. There was some modification to the core support needed, but nothing major. If I remember right, I installer the innercooler on the front side of the core support along with the A/C condensor. The hoods always closed up, with IFS suspension, and no body lifts



Since your brother is a diesel tech, getting the engine hooked up and running should be a piece of cake.



It's the details that you will find will occupy your time. Getting all the gauges to work, cruise control, tach, etc. will be where you will spend a lot of time. For me, the time required to figure out the details just was not worth it, and that is why I brought my truck to Autoworld. Before I got sick, I used to work with Kenny, you made a wise decision to hire him to do it. He makes sure it will last beyond the engines life, not the typical GM trucks short expectation. The newer GM alternators are also the pickup for the Tach's, which makes it easy on the newer trucks to convert, The harness doesn't need much modification other than lengthening the wires. You just need to install a wider serpentine pulley on the alternator and fabricate the accessory mounts to get it onto the



If you have any specific questions, I'll be glad to help. I may not be able to immediately answer them because I'm not going to see the finished product until mid to late December when I get back in the country.

I am not regularly at the site either anymore, but I am getting email notifications on this thread if you need any input on this. We've just moved/transferred to the southeast area. Montgomery, AL (as temporary as absolutely possible). . If you're anywhere nearby, i'd be happy to give you some pointers

 

[RichCook]

Hi I am doing the same conversion, I think. .

A 1990 6BT into a 1981 4x4 one ton, it looks like I may have to use the entire drive train since I can't find any kits, do you know of any? I found motor mounts on ebay for 225. 00. The Getrag trans was slipping out of third gear so I will probably have to have it rebuilt. My biggest concern is the gear ratio

I'm guess I have 410 gears. Maybe i should pull the plug on the project, but I sure like the diesel and would love to see it in my one ton dump truck which has to pull equiptment. Any suggestions?

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Hi I am doing the same conversion, I think. .

A 1990 6BT into a 1981 4x4 one ton, it looks like I may have to use the entire drive train since I can't find any kits, do you know of any? I found motor mounts on ebay for 225. 00. The Getrag trans was slipping out of third gear so I will probably have to have it rebuilt. My biggest concern is the gear ratio

I'm guess I have 410 gears. Maybe i should pull the plug on the project, but I sure like the diesel and would love to see it in my one ton dump truck which has to pull equiptment. Any suggestions?

You can dump the getrag and install a nv=4500 with little effort. Since you are doing a conversion, you can bench install all parts before you put it in the truck.

I would not waste your time with the getrag transmission. Sell it as core to someone, or hook a chain to it and keep your boat from drifting.

The engine will fit into your old chevy without alot of headaches. A 1" bodylift will make it easier, but you can get it in there if you modify the crossmember and lift the truck to keep the pumpkin from hitting the oil pan on hard bumps. 2" suspension lift will be enough.

Not sure what brand motor mounts you found on ebay. Make sure they're built well enough for the long term. You can get mounts from several places, but I only deal with autoworld in Montana for parts anymore. Kenny is a wealth of knowledge on this projects. 406 727 8915. he doesn't sell a "kit", but he has all the parts you'll need to get it donem, as well as the tech help if you need.

 

[CumminsBurban]

I don't think I would put a straight axle in unless you just really want one. I did my Suburban 1/2 ton, and it is working great. My brother also did a Suburban 1/2 ton and it is also working great. I see no reason to get rid of the IFS. I put a 3" lift on mine because I wanted one. My brother's wife did not want their Sub. lifted so he did it without lifting it. Looks nice.

 

[98slushbox]

I've found a local guy who wants to do some trading with me. He has a 2000 model chevy crew cab short bed 3/4 ton 4x4. He bought the truck wrecked and then started to put a 97, i believe, 12v in it with an auto. Is it easier to fit a man. or auto in one? He said the trans. or transfer case got in the way of the torsion bar rear bracket. I am thinking about trading but want to figure out what it will take to finish it. Any info. is appreciated. anything wiring or mechanical. thanks,

Lance

 

[DKarvwnaris]

I've found a local guy who wants to do some trading with me. He has a 2000 model chevy crew cab short bed 3/4 ton 4x4. He bought the truck wrecked and then started to put a 97, i believe, 12v in it with an auto. Is it easier to fit a man. or auto in one? He said the trans. or transfer case got in the way of the torsion bar rear bracket. I am thinking about trading but want to figure out what it will take to finish it. Any info. is appreciated. anything wiring or mechanical. thanks,

Lance

I have modified the torsion bar crossmembers on the IFS models to allow the transmission to fit by it. You don't need to worry too much about this. If I remember right, I cut out about 2" down and 12" across in a curved profile. I gusseted the remaining part left and filled in the part cut out with flatbar to strengthen the center. You could not tell the part was changed unless you knew what it looked like originally. The bottom side was reinforced with angle and a piece of flatbar to make sure it would not bow from the torsion bars load on it. (the first one I did developed a curve rather quickly, so I made sure that the future conversions were substantially heavier duty in this area. The crossmember's ended up more structurally solid than OEM. (which doesn't take much considering it is a stamped piece of steel sheeting, 3/16" if I recall).

 

[98slushbox]

Is it the trans that hits the crossmember? I didnt look too close at it. he was just telling me about it. Is it any different between a man. and an auto. ?

 

[CumminsBurban]

That is almost exactly what I did with my Suburban as well. It is the transfer case that hits.



Actually, the first time we worked with the torsion bar support, we just cut it and reinforced the bottom side. That worked well until the first bump we hit. Ruined that one!! So, we got another one, cut it the same way and then reinforced top and bottom. I don't think there is any reason to reinforce the bottom but the top is crucial.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

That is almost exactly what I did with my Suburban as well. It is the transfer case that hits.



Actually, the first time we worked with the torsion bar support, we just cut it and reinforced the bottom side. That worked well until the first bump we hit. Ruined that one!! So, we got another one, cut it the same way and then reinforced top and bottom. I don't think there is any reason to reinforce the bottom but the top is crucial.

Transfer case as mentioned here.

I have pogo sticked a few of the IFS trucks across railroad tracks with the modified crossmembers. None of the ones I built bent besides the first attempt. Reinforcing the top is a must. I would still recommend running the flat bar parrallel to the vertical section remaining and then boxing it in at the bottom. Might not be neccessary, but the ruggedness of everything that most cummins repowers will be expected to take makes it a given.

 

[98slushbox]

Do either one of you know anyone who has ran a 2wd trans. and a divorced x-fer case? I wonder if that would be another route to take?

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Do either one of you know anyone who has ran a 2wd trans. and a divorced x-fer case? I wonder if that would be another route to take?

I can't see any reason to do that. The fitment of the combined transmission/transfer case is not an issue. You will not get anything to fit into these trucks besides stock engineered components without modifying things. Divorced or not the crossmember is going to be an issue. The crossmember is only used on IFS 4wd trucks since the 2wd vehicles use coil springs and a arms. A divorced transfer case would only lengthen the driveline and shorten your rear driveshaft, while lengthening the front shaft. (the fronts have enough vibration problems as it is in the IFS trucks with auto trac systems).

Stick with what is known to work and will result in the most successful conversion. Remember, the further you put the transfer case back, you also have to compensate with the 4wd shift lever's leverage and engagement. With the stock unit moved back a few inches, you barely need to do anything but extend the main lever rod.

 

[98slushbox]

I was just wondering if anyone tried it, but that answers my question.

 

[Lee Whitmire]

I Have A 1993 Gmc 3500 4 Door Duelly 2 Wheel Drive And Want To Put A Cummins In It Need Information On Adapter To Leave Chevy transmission In It

 

[DKarvwnaris]

I Have A 1993 Gmc 3500 4 Door Duelly 2 Wheel Drive And Want To Put A Cummins In It Need Information On Adapter To Leave Chevy transmission In It

Automatic or Manual?... .....



Manual will be easy, Purchase the bellhousing adapters for a dodge nv-4500 and get an input shaft for the dodge transmission so you have the correct spline diameter and size for the dodge clutch. These parts will bolt up to the front of the GM nv-4500 without machining or specialized adapters, the transmission's front bolt pattern is the same on both dodge and GM models.

There is a nv-4500 in a few GM trucks that is an odd ball, it has a weird internal slave cylinde, the front is not compatible with the dodge input shaft without machining. I have only seen a handfull of these in trucks I have one. You'll know as soon as you have the engine out whether you have. this specific model.



If you have an Auto in your truck, I wouldn't bother trying to keep it. It will be more trouble than its worth to make it work and hold together.