Circular Saws - Worm Drive vs. Direct Drive

[rbattelle]

Here's another "this vs. that" question. Mechanically, I know the difference between a worm drive circular saw and a direct drive circular saw. It's apparent to me that a worm drive, because of it's gear arrangement, should develop significantly more torque and lower RPM at the blade than a direct drive saw.



But I'm not clear on specifically which is the more advantageous. Does it depend on what you're cutting? Is there anything you can't do with a worm drive that you can do with a direct drive? If I were only going to ever purchase 1 single circular saw to do everything from building decks to workbenches, is there any reason that circular saw should not be a worm drive?



I've never seen a worm drive in use (never known anyone that had one), so direct drive must be vastly more common. Why?



-Ryan

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Worm drive is most widely used by proffessional carpenters, because of the typically better quality and power of those types - but cost is a factor for most "weekend" carpenters, thus the more widely used (and CHEAPER!) direct drive jobs...

 

[sardoghauler]

wieght

A lot of guys will tell you that weight is the big downside of a wormdrive. I have found that my worm makes it easier to get a straight and accurate cut because i can get behind it and sight down the saw. If you go back a few months in "fine homebuiding" you'll find a great circular saw comparison and buying guide.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

As a former carpenter I would say worm gear all the way. Look at what 99% of what contractors use. Unless you are a lefty, sighting a direct is a PIA. However, pragmatically speaking, I've always had both because there are just a few rare times when the direct comes in handy.



If you are not going to be using it full time, I'd suggest picking up a Skil or a Makita at the local pawn shop. There are plenty of good ones there for a decent price. Just look it over carefully and give it a test run.

 

[rbattelle]

If you are not going to be using it full time, I'd suggest picking up a Skil or a Makita at the local pawn shop.

My recent obsession with Milwaukee tools (caused primarily by this forum) has me drooling over this one .



-Ryan

 

[testraub]

My biggest problem with "worm drive" was they really require two hands to operate properly. Second was cost. For most jobs the old "Skil" saw will do the job.

 

[Allnew2Me]

The wormdrive was invented by Skil back in the twenties, very primitive looking compared to todays saws. They really caught on in the post-war building boom, but only on the west coast. Back East they used the direct drive and still do for the most part. The first advantage was that the blade was on the left and for most righties that made the cutline easier to see. Now you can buy a a lefty direct so that is less of an issue. The other advantage is that the saw is inline with the weight where it needs to be to let it be pushed more directly, easier to control. If you have used both you understand how important that is when stacking a roof or standing on a plate to make your cut, a very balanced tool. Number three is the power, you cannot stop a wormdrive saw. They have a clutch in the form of two washers sandwiching the blade and if you tighten the blade nut correctly (left hand thread), the blade will slip when you bind it up. Most guys tighten the heck out of it because they don't know how do do it, or don't read the manual. That can cause a surprise if you bind up the blade, because the torque is so much more than a direct drive saw that is only gear reduced 2 or three times. All wormdrive saws will outlast you, even when you drop them from second floors, they are all ball or needle bearings and you can change the oil in the gearbox too. All cast housings and heavey because of it, but you get used to that. My original Skill 77 is almost 17 pounds but the new mag models are a lot less than that. Some like the Makita hypoid drive are plastic and are not too bad either. Hypoid drive is like our rear ends, not a worm. Think of the wormdrive as a diesel, and the directs as a gasser. Most of the time you don't need a wormdrive, they were designed for framers and still are used mostly for that, although I use mine, a new one for doors and finish. If you only occasionally use a power saw, get a direct with the blad on the left and save your arms. Just my thoughts.

 

[Grizzly]

Since I do a lot of framing, I primarily use my Skill light weight worm drive. Having said that, when I have to make some quick cuts in almost remote, or hard to to get to location, I use my 18V, 6. 5" DeWalt cordless.

 

[RT66DOC]

12 year old Makita + left-handed = works for me but I sure don't do alot of framing.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

Ryan,



I had a wormgear Milwaukee. I love my Milwaukee drills, cordless, drywall gun, and sawsall. But the wormgear was way to heavy for this runt. Especially when you are running one most of the day. Hawked it off on a Skil. Perhaps, and hopefully, they have lighten up the wormgear nowadays.



But then again a Vaughn 24oz framing hammer was/is tool enough for me - not the 32oz numbers.

 

[daveshoe]

I agree with Dog The Milwaukee does not follow a line as well as a Skil worm drive. It is too wide and the ''center of gravity'' is not in line with the blade. I have a Milwaukee that sits unused except when I gang cut multiple thicknesses of plywood. A Skil is much easier to control with one hand than a Milwaukee.

 

[swankmetal]

the ONLY reason i would get a direct drive saw would be for some of the slightly more complicated roof cuts where you need opposite bevels (the directs typically tilt the way worm drives don't). otherwise, the only saw i will ever buy to replace my skil mag 77, would be this one. my boss has a couple and they are NICE.



just my . 02



dave

 

[RDale]

If you are still wondering which saw is for you?

buy the skill mag

Get the skill mag lite and a makita panel saw [a small light weight lefty with good power that you can use overhead or on those revese miters]

I have used my mag to cut every thing from PVC pipe to 1/4 inch steel plate and even concrete just use the right blade for the job keep it sharp and NEVER WEDGE YOUR BLADE GUARD BACK unless you want to loose a part of your body or 2.



LUV ROCK.

35 yrs MAJOR PROJECTS [10 MIL plus. ]

 

[rbattelle]

I don't know. The Tim Taylor in me wants a worm drive saw. The practical man in me says I really only need a little direct drive Skilsaw.



-Ryan

 

[GregReynolds]

So it all boils down to preference. I framed for years and only used a direct drive. West coast guys typically like worm drive. They're all good if, you buy quality merchandise. IMHO

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

NEVER WEDGE YOUR BLADE GUARD BACK

About the time you have even an unblocked guard accidently jam up and come charging back across the floor after your foot is the time you learn to always lay that sucker down on it's side.



Yep, the good ol' school of hard knocks, Class 101 Whew Almost Didn't Dodge That Bullet.



PS: Can't easily lay a direct on it's side, whereas with a wormgear it's easy.



Ryan, buy the bosch and give us a report. :-laf Most Bosch tools are top quality also.



OTD - a. k. a. Five Fingers Slim. :-laf

 

[MSLiechty]

As a union carpenter, the nice thing about the worm drive or Skilsaw (77) is the blade is on the correct side of the saw.



Michael

 

[Elite1]

I'm a Landscape contractor and am on my 3rd skilsaw 77, also have a small dewalt 18 volt direct drive.

I use the Skilsaw to form concrete and build wood decks and patio covers. But I also put a diamond concrete blade on it and cut bricks, block, & concrete. Then I put a fiber wheel blade on and cut rebar with it. Great multi purpose tool... & yes I wedge the blade cover back! Especially when cutting rebar & brick...

 

[tmacc]

Wow! this got me thinking. My first saw was a Skil 77. Still have it. Probably about 30 yrs old by now. It's a tank for sure. I started out as a cabinetmakers's apprentice, so it was used mainly for installs and occasional framing. I always liked the ability to see the blade when your cutting on cabinet that you've just spent 2 weeks working on becuase the floor that it's being installed on is out 1/2". The last 15 yrs I've been using a Dewalt 8-1/4", which I like the top blade depth adjustment on, but my favorite is the Porter-Cable 743 lefty(they also make a righty). I like being able to see the blade. It's light and easy to handle for weird cuts. It's sturdily built. Has plenty of power. It has a cast mag base that is kind of "thick" which is nice when you've got a "fence" clamped (or screwed) to your work for straight cuts. It reverse angles to the Dewalt, so it's nice to have that ability. It also has a 90 degree elbow that installs in a port on the front of the blade housing that directs the chips away from your face when the wind is blowing. A nice feature that I use, but most of my guys don't. It really all depends on what you get in the habit of using. When I'm working on a job, I've usually got all of them out.

 

[JohnRobinson]

hi ryan if you buy the milwaccy i will give you 10. 00 for it next week just to put in my acculuation of strange tools hi ryan 35 yrs carpenter here buy a skil or boshe (same company] no accesories avaibble for the millwaccy I have 12 of them 4 8. 25 8 7. 25 some 30 yrs old all set up different roof cutting stair cutting i push a saw all day long 6 days a week 77 or mag 77 [a little lighter] is the only way to go millwakky makes some of the best tools around but the skil saw is the best they invented it you bought the best diesel buy the best saw IMHO john