Circular Saws - Worm Drive vs. Direct Drive

[Ol'TrailDog]

John,



You have the answer to a question that has been plaguing me. The saw at the pawn shop has the "direct connect" (also has a handle on top, can't imagine running one w/o for a number of cuts). I've been wondering if the boss for the plug in is a PIA, e. g. in the way and makes the saw generally uncomfortable to handle??? If so, is it such a PIA that it isn't worth a bargain or is it a case of "get use to it". Again, because they are NIB I was unable to take the saw out and test handle.



The Milwaukee "direct connect" on my drills and screw gun is slick, positive, unobtrusive, and I use it all the time.

 

[JohnRobinson]

John,



You have the answer to a question that has been plaguing me. The saw at the pawn shop has the "direct connect" (also has a handle on top, can't imagine running one w/o for a number of cuts). I've been wondering if the boss for the plug in is a PIA, e. g. in the way and makes the saw generally uncomfortable to handle??? If so, is it such a PIA that it isn't worth a bargain or is it a case of "get use to it". Again, because they are NIB I was unable to take the saw out and test handle.



The Milwaukee "direct connect" on my drills and screw gun is slick, positive, unobtrusive, and I use it all the time.

hi ol''traildog on third saw i talked about - handle on top - maybe i should have clarifed handle on top w/trigger as for ''direct connect'' i have not used that one . it would not be fesable for me as we have to use ''osha'' twist lock plugs on the jobsite may be it is osha approved i dont know . as often as we break handles it looks like an expensive one to replace . but might be just fine for you. hope this helps -john

 

[JohnRobinson]

hey ol'trail dog what became of your want for that boshe saw ??????

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

I called them last week and asked if they would like for me to pay for it CC over the phone or hold it until tomorrow - Monday.



But I'm in the throes of valve spring replacement so I will have to call and put it off til Tuesday.

 

[JohnRobinson]

thanks for reply -good luck john -BTW - while you are felling so '' old '' i am 13 mo's older . BTW where did you do your ''union'' time at cheers -john

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

Carpenter's Local 151 - Helena, MT.



Before the union I was rocking, insulating, and roofing - jobs better know as Jobs-Americans-Won't-Take Heck, put food on the table for wife and the kids.



Up in this part of the world, MT, union folks did every thing from concrete forms, framing, steel stud framing, rocking, to finish. Lest favorite was concrete - hate building something and then tearing it down.



Most of the residential was non-onion. Also went started down the Millwright path, but decided to go into the Reserves and finish college instead. And here I are: wiser but dumber. :-laf

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

End of sordid Saga:



I ended up trading my old Skil 77 and old Milwaukee in on the NIB Bosch worm gear and Bosch sawsall.



About two months ago I traded the Bosch sawsall in on a new Milwaukee Super Sawsall + $10 at a pawn shop in Belgrade, MT. Now I'm such a happy camper. The Milwaukee sawsall has SOOOO much less vibration than the Bosch.

 

[rbattelle]

Not to hijack this thread, but the vibration on the Milwaukee Sawzall is almost eerily nonexistent.



Ryan

 

[Ggg]

Speaking of age and to date myself, I am still using an old WEN Stallion direct drive saw. Dates back to early 70's still works great, albeit not as fancy or ergonomic as the newer saws.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

I actually have a WEN 1/4 drill hanging around somewhere Must have been hard parting company with the 30 year old Skil wormgear and 35+ year old Milwaukee sawsall I traded in. :-laf

 

[Bill Stockard]

Speaking of age and to date myself, I am still using an old WEN Stallion direct drive saw. Dates back to early 70's still works great, albeit not as fancy or ergonomic as the newer saws.

Yep, I have an old all metal Craftsman I bought back in the late 60s. I'd still be using it, but can't find a 7" saw blades anywhere for it.



Bill

 

[Elite1]

Yep, I have an old all metal Craftsman I bought back in the late 60s. I'd still be using it, but can't find a 7" saw blades anywhere for it.



Bill

Bill, I assume the standard 7 1/4" blade is a little too large... . have you tried a 6 1/2" blade, like these:

http://buybox.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_n...13,n:552262,n:552286,n:552292,n:552294&page=1

 

[Bill Stockard]

I've tried a 7 1/2" blade and it won't fit. It looks like my only choice is a 6 1/2" blade. Thanks for the link!



Bill

 

[rbattelle]

I've been using this saw (Skil HD77) for awhile now and I find it really works well. Specifically, I've been cutting 2x4x0. 12 A36 structural steel tube using a 7" aluminum oxide cutoff wheel.



This kind of work is not for the weak of saw. It seems to take quite a bit of power. Today when I finished the oil temperature in the saw gearcase was almost 180°F! Overall the saw was pretty hot after making 3 cuts (I move very slowly, so that tends to increase heat generation).



My only real complaint so far is that you can't cut a 2x4 section at 45° in one pass.



I learned very quickly that the vari-torque clutch (which prevents kickback when cutting wood) must be disabled (by tightening the blade bolt) when using abrasive cutoff wheels. It takes a lot of torque to cut steel like this. Ironically, the weight of this saw (16 lb) makes this job a little easier than it might be with a lighter weight unit.



It's interesting that Skil claims this saw has a bellows in the gearcase to prevent pressure buildup in the oil, but when I pulled the fill plug to check the oil temperature there was an audible pressure release.



I think I'll change the oil when this steel work is finished. Anyone have a source for oil for this thing, or recommendations on what to use besides the Skil part number?



Ryan

 

[robertyoke]

I've been using this saw (Skil HD77) for awhile now and I find it really works well. Specifically, I've been cutting 2x4x0. 12 A36 structural steel tube using a 7" aluminum oxide cutoff wheel.



This kind of work is not for the weak of saw. It seems to take quite a bit of power. Today when I finished the oil temperature in the saw gearcase was almost 180°F! Overall the saw was pretty hot after making 3 cuts (I move very slowly, so that tends to increase heat generation).



My only real complaint so far is that you can't cut a 2x4 section at 45° in one pass.



I learned very quickly that the vari-torque clutch (which prevents kickback when cutting wood) must be disabled (by tightening the blade bolt) when using abrasive cutoff wheels. It takes a lot of torque to cut steel like this. Ironically, the weight of this saw (16 lb) makes this job a little easier than it might be with a lighter weight unit.



It's interesting that Skil claims this saw has a bellows in the gearcase to prevent pressure buildup in the oil, but when I pulled the fill plug to check the oil temperature there was an audible pressure release.



I think I'll change the oil when this steel work is finished. Anyone have a source for oil for this thing, or recommendations on what to use besides the Skil part number?



Ryan

gear lube works great!

-robert

 

[rbattelle]

If gear lube is good for it, that'll be easy. I'll just use some of the spare I've got laying around from the truck (75w90 full synthetic).



Ryan

 

[cojhl2]

If I read this thread correctly,,, are you guys cutting steel with an abrasive wheel on a wood circular saw. .



Why not go to Harbor Freight and get a cutoff saw that is built for that task. I haven't looked lately but they can't be much over 100$ these days.

 

[robertyoke]

harbor freight..... thats funnny! I only buy hf stuff if I plan on using it once and tossing it at least with the power tools they sell.



Ryan try using a toothed blade for cutting steel, bosh makes a 7. 25 inch with a diamond ko. It has 0 degree tooth pitch and d3 carbide teeth, works great. less heat, better cuts and the blade will last 20x the fiber blades.

I have 11 or 12 skill saws and they all have gear lube, tried 10w30 once that worked but it made the saw sound funny, like it was ready for flight. that saw is closed to 10 years old and still works fine. Most of the saws I have see more use in one week then most people use them in a year.

-robert

 

[rbattelle]

Why not go to Harbor Freight and get a cutoff saw that is built for that task. I haven't looked lately but they can't be much over 100$ these days.

This is a good question. My worm drive saw is more than capable of cutting metal. The RPM is much lower (4400 vs. 5500 or more) than other types of circular saws (although not quite as slow as most metal cutting saws), which makes it appropriate for use cutting masonry, wood, and metal. There's really no need to invest in a metal cutting saw, in my opinion.



Robert, I know about the metal cutting blades, but the abrasive wheels are more economical in this case. This will (hopefully) be the first and last project for which I will need a metal cutting saw because I'm getting ready to place into service a band saw which will do the task for me. I need to make roughly 30 cuts for this project. At $2. 50/blade, I could use 24 abrasive wheels for the cost of 1 metal cutting blade. As things are going now, I will need fewer than 10 abrasive wheels.



Of course, the metal cutting blades are FAR more accurate, but by taking my time I'm able to achieve "adequate" accuracy. After all, I'm not building a piano here!





Ryan

 

[robertyoke]

ryan I only pay about $31 and change for the bosh blades from the welding shop. That's about 12 and half fiber blades so I really do think there cheaper plus they don't leave that metal buildup inside your saw.

I hear ya tho if you don't do this often it doesn't matter but I have used the fiber and now the toothed blades and I won't go back to fiber even if they were cheaper! I feel the same for chop saws I use the tooth type and there is no comparison in cut. You can cut just a half width of blade if you want, try that with a fiber blade, the blade will deflect. It also does not fill your shop with all that dust.

-robert