Here I am

Clocking the HX40-16

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3 gauge piller know availible with and w/o tweeters

Adjustable timing box for 24 valve?

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Finally got some time to install the HX40. The housings need to be 'clocked' or turned so that the oil lines & intake housing line up properly. #ad


The center of the turbo where the oil lines attach rotate when the bolts to the exhaust housing are loosened. The mutha is the snap ring that holds the intake housing in place. The snap ring needs to be squeezed & the housing needs to be rotated so it will line up with the intercooler line. The ends of the snap ring are bent inwards twords one another so the pliers slip off #ad


What is the trick?

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, Injectors, TST 280/685 & AFC housing @ full bombed position.
4" CAT back & CATless, 4" chrome turn down straight out back.
ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Monicas silencer ring removed, Exhaust brake, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s.
HX35s days are numbered, HX40-16 is here.
Un-Bombed = Boring
 
Forrest. . your description is vague... there are many styles of snap rings... get to your local tool house or the Snap On van. . take a drawing of the ring with you. .
I have about 4 different snap ring pliers styles and several sizes in each style in my set... they take a side drawer by themselfs
Gary
 
The trick is WHERE to buy the HX40 from! The originators who worked out the requirements to put it on the Rams easily--Piers and yours truly went through all that. I can get them or go direct to BD--then it would come already clocked so you don't need the monster snap ring pliers. Wait until you try to hook up the wastegate and find that the compressor housing gets in the way unless you cut off and reweld the actuator lever 90 degrees so you can use the Dodge wastegate.
Sorry you had to learn the hard way--but I did post cautions earlier in a couple HX40 threads. Reclocking the compressor housing is a real hassle with that super stiff snap ring. It is a requirement to keep the housing absolutely square so you don't bend a vane or the shaft. Just be very careful. It has been done with Chanellocks, but as you noted, they tend to slip off. Luck helps if you take that route.
Best wishes,
Joe
 
Thanks for the + suggestions guys.

I got 2 small vice grips, locked onto the tabs of the snap ring. The tabs stick up 1/2" or so. Now I can use the channel locks & squeeze the snap ring & all is well. Looks like I have to remove the ring to spin the housing, then put the ring back on when it's in position, on the truck. #ad
 
I don't think you will have an easy time with the turbo on the truck. Use trial and error with it on the bench so you don't risk the vanes. Or, remove the drain pipe from the engine, trial bolt it on, and clock until the band clamp for the compressor outlet clears the drain pipe by 1/8" - 1/4". That should be real close.
 
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