2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Clutch balance / mounting problems

[Wyomingcowboy]

I am in the middle of putting my rebuild back together and have hit yet another snag. I took the clutch off but didn't bother to mark the flywheel to pressure plate alignment.

Can somebody please help me? I don't want to just bolt it up there and have it be out of balance... :{

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I see what I imagine to be weights inserted in the holes for balance. Is that right? Any ideas how to mount this thing up and be close to balanced?

 

[HBarlow]

I have no idea whether the factory balances flywheel/clutch assemblies as a unit but the mechanic who installs a new clutch and pressure plate or a replacement flywheel certainly doesn't for normal repairs or replacements.

I had a clutch assembly installed in my '01 after I glazed or warped it backing a heavy trailer on a hot summer day and stupidly didn't allow it to idle for several minutes to permit cooldown. The mechanic didn't balance the new clutch and old flywheel together (or separately, for that matter). I never noticed any increased vibration.

I'm not a mechanic but would guess each flywheel is factory balanced and maybe pressure plates are also balanced by their manufacturer.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

After looking at my own pics several times I was kinda thinking the same thing. That, and I could find but very few posts on here about this.

My next dilemma is this: Sometime in the last several months since transmission has been out, I managed to shoot the piston out of my slave cylinder. Can I get a new one, or do I have air and contaminates in the system and need to replace the whole thing now?

I am so stinkin close to driving this thing and keep hitting litte road blocks... .

 

[GCroyle]

Wyomingcowboy,



I feel your pain with the slave cylinder, but all may not be lost yet.



First, the cover is balanced, you are right the rivets in between the bolts are the correction weights. We have not seen any problems with balanced components requiring match marking. Some GM gas engine clutches and flywheels have been marked with paint daubs that allows you to minimize the imbalance rather than stack and maximize the balance. Not a problem on our engines that I know of. You will see holes in the F/W also that show it has been balanced.

Don't forget the hardened washers under the F/W bolts.





There are popular comments from the dealerships that say you can only service these hydraulics as a pre-filled system, that is because that is all they offer is the pre-filled. I think your system uses ordinary roll pins to hold the line into either cylinder. You can get a replacement or just try to put it back together and bleed it.



Bleeding is best done at the bench just because it puts everything in eye sight, reservoir, master and slave cylinder. If you want to try to put the old one back into service, be careful with the assembly process do not cut a seal.

You might as well just pump all the fluid out and start fresh. Might want to try to put some fluid in the slave by treating it like a hypodermic syringe and pull fluid in before hooking it up.



With the complete system, go to the bench vise, clamp the flange in the vise, fill with fluid. Now the game begins. The fluid will start trickling into the system, secure the slave cylinder piston with a steering gear puller so it cannot pop out again, push 1/2" or so on the master cylinder pushrod, short stroking and watch the air come out. Make sure the line is always positioned to allow air to flow up and out. Air fluid, let it sit, short stroke, air bubbles, repeat. You should also remove the puller and push the slave cylinder push rod all the way in and then let it come back pulling in fluid.



With the slave cylinder blocked, push on the pushrod, it is time to install it when the pushrod travel is about 1/16-1/8" and then it goes hard as a rock.



You just need a bit of patience, time and think how to maneuver the air bubbles out of the line, then bench test your results.



Do not give up.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Many thanks, Gary! I have to try and find my piston first, but I have your # and it's great to know there's help at the ready!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Praise God! Piston found! I'll take the unit out and attempt to bench bleed per Gary's Instructions. BRB

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

well, I found the piston..... but the little cup or whatever is inside is missing. I have the spring and piston, but that's it.

 

[Curious Dave]

I believe our clutches to be neutral balanced. It should not matter how they go in. Well... within reason.

 

[GCroyle]

Wyomingcowboy,



Good luck on the hydraulics, you can do it.



I just noticed something on your clutch pictures. Your spring tips are showing wear. They look to have a very large flat spot and look very thin where the bearing makes contact. This is from high mileage or lots of clutch usage stop and go driving or leaving your foot on the pedal while driving.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Lots of stop and go driving. I never ride the clutch when I drive! It is worn a little but it will have to get me through till the fall as money is a huge issue at this point. Once again, thanks for help - TDR is quite possibly the best $35 I soend each year.