Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch change question

[VHazelbaker]

Hi,

I noticed that in the Transmission/Clutch removal process that some have listed on the forum, they mention supporting the front of the engine? Do they really mean the rear of the engine when they say this or is the 5. 9 front heavy once the transmission weight is removed? I will be removing my transmission soon as 4th gear syncronizer is now gone. Trying to study up on the removal process and would like to fully understand the steps listed. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.



Vj

 

[JAlford]

Yes,the engine is slightly front heavy when removing the trans and clutch, so supporting the front is a good idea. it also makes it much easier to remove/install the input shaft as the shift tower (which must be removed) base sticks thru the cab access hole.

When I remove my trans I also put my rear axle up on jackstands and it improves the ability for me to position the jack and get the input shaft to go in/out straight line. Otherwise, you are trying to slide the input in/out on an angle, not real fun. To get everything straight, I put a level vertically on the bellhousing, then on the engine mating surface, and square both perpendicular to the floor, then I can just roll the transmission jack forward and the shaft goes straight in.

Jeff

 

[hsmith]

You don't have to support either end. Be sure to unbolt the fan shroud though.

 

[QWaller]

Hello,



I too may be in for a clutch experience by my lonesome soon, SO if you find a really good set of tips please pass it on. Thanks

 

[JAlford]

Tips? I have a few since I have upgraded 4 clutches and rebuilt the trans 4 times since 2003.

1. If you can get a porta-power ram to spread the frame when removing the crossmember, use it. You will save hours of beating on stuff and moving lines etc.

2. Take the transfer case out first, don't try to remove both unless you have help or a really good transmission jack. I have always used an ATV/motorcycle lift that I bought from Sam's Club, and it works fine when removing each piece separately.

3. Remove the shift tower and cover the hole.

4. Mark your drive shafts before removing so you can put them back in the same place.

5. Take your time, don't rush or you will likely forget to remove something.

6. A barring tool is helpful, if you have access to one. I bought mine at Cummins.

7. Remember to have some bailing wire or safety wire under the truck with you when removing the clutch hydraulic cylinder so you can keep the piston from fully extending or pushing out of the bore while the cylinder is out.

8. Raising rear axle only on 4x4 truck will allow straight removal/installation of the input shaft if you level the engine to the floor. A jack support under the engine front will help and keeps load off of the engine mounts, which I was warned at a Cummins shop could damage the mounts if the engine isn't supported.



That should get you started. I will post more if I remember other tips.

 

[VHazelbaker]

Thanks for the information Jeff. How high did you lift the back tires off the ground while doing the removal?



Vince

 

[GCroyle]

Advice,



1. Patience.

2. Attention to detail.

3. We have done quite a few 5 speeds and we do not use a porta power and we do not have to beat the X-member out. When it's X-member removal time we tap it UP first as high as it will go, then start tapping it out to the rear always keeping it up as high as it will go. Install, clean up the flanges and saddle in the frame, start high and tap it in, keep it high, then we start wedging it down, even using the trans weight with the mount in place to help seat it and have some alignment drifts handy to help position the X-member.

4. For 5 speeds I like to install the bell housing on the engine seperately, some may disagree but it saves wear and tear on the very important dowel sleeve holes.

5. Using force has never been a good thing to get a trans in place, get things lined up.

6. Attention to detail.

7. Patience.



Good luck and enjoy your results.