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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch hydraulics help

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) another fuel filter question

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joints

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I am looking for new clutch hydraulics and was wondering what folks have used and how much I should expect to pay? I have read threads where guys have claimed to have paid under $200 for a complete pre bled setup but Have not been so lucky getting prices. The truck is a 2000 6 speed. Any help would be appreciated.



Thank You,

Mike
 
Mike,



What is your diagnosis of your problem?



These can be repaired at the component level. The lack of a bleed screw does not mean that they cannot be bled and TESTED in the field to assure an air free system.
 
Losing pressure but no fluid loss. Pumping pedal will build pressure enough to shift but holding to the floor the truck will start to creep. The truck owner depends on this truck and would rather just change the whole assembly and only have the truck down once. What are you thinking?



Mike
 
Mike,



Pre-filled hydraulics are designed to be just that type of approach to the problem, remove, replace, invoice and drive away. Notice the word invoice.



Depending upon the situation, this option is a good one.



I am just suggesting the possibility of determining the real problem and trying to fix it.



DOT 3 doesn't evaporate to my knowledge, if it has gone down in the reservoir, it's gone somewhere. The fluid level will actually increase in the reservoir as the clutch disc gets thinner.



Pumping to get release, sounds like air in the system. Did it come from contaminated DOT 3 that now has enough moisture content to create steam (air bubbles) under high heat and cause no release? Unknown.



I have previously posted about techniques to test our hydraulics and it only takes a steering wheel puller to get feedback w/o using the clutch to provide the feedback. Isolate, analyze, diagnose and then repair based on the testing.



This might help.



YouTube - perfectionclutch's Channel
 
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