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clutch install help

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I am going to be installing a South Bend Con O in awhile. This is the first truck I've done installs and repairs on in addition to maintanence. I've searched for any info I could find but would like help from anyone willing. Anything from removing the shifters to any special tools I'll need. Trying to avoid any problems I can. :confused: I think I have help from a mechanic at work, but need specifics for our trucks. Thanks in advance. Love all the help from everyone. :D
 
Kieth, no special tools needed. I just put in a CON OFE and the alignment tool was included. It helps to have two people, else you will find yourselve crawling around the transmission jack. Is your truck a 4x4 or 2x4? On my 97', I the rear shaft universal bolts were 8mm but the front shaft was standard, else everything was metric as I recall.



I read where some have split the transfer and transmission and some pulled as a unit. The cross member will not drop directly down by the way, it has to be slid to where it will come out.



Shifter(s), unscrew your boots, take a big adjustable and put it on the stick. Tap the wrench and the stick will pop off leaving a stub. Transfer linkage unbolts pretty simply. The square vacuum plug can be a bugger to put back on.



Not much room when removing the transmission. Kinda drop the rear and twist to clear the floor. I did some surgery for the install after knocking my throwout bearing arm off the clip.



Get your flywheel machined. I had it setup to where I dropped mine off, picked up in two hours. They removed 4 thoursands for 30 bucks.



Good time to replace your rubber fuel lines if you have not done that. If not, read the threads first but it is easy with the back of the engine open.



Air tools will help speed it up some. Get your torque specs together before you start so you don't need to keep referensing the book. You do have a service manual? If not, it's worthy.



Hope this helps.
 
Dieselnv, I will be pulling mine this Sunday. Put it back together on Monday. I have herd that the frame might have to be spread with a Porta-Power to remove the cross member and the floorbord has to be bent up a little. If you want to come watch/help your welcome.

Bob Verhoef
 
I made up a plate with a long set screw to go in place of the hydraulic actuator to prevent breakage and to hold a little tension on the throwout bearing to keep it centered. Doing that avoids some choice vocabulary on the lineup during reinstall.
 
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