Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Clutch Install how Hard???

[markdixon]

I'm ordering a new clutch this week and was wondering if this would be a feasible job to do in my driveway. I have air tools and a floor jack. any advise. 4x4 5spd truck.

 

[Briar Hopper]

It's not a fun job without a lift, but I've done a few autos and manuals on my back. You'll need two 3-ton jackstands at the minimum, and a cradle can be bought to fit in the top of the floor jack, but that's a dangerous way to do it(no means of strapping the transmission to prevent tipping). See if you can rent a low-boy type transmission jack over a weekend, that would be safer.

A port-a-power hydraulic ram is nice for spreading the frame rails, easier, quicker, less frustrating than hammering on the crossmember to remove it. Tip: Work the crossmember towards the FRONT of the truck, it'll come out easier that way.

You'll need something stronger than a Craftsman 8mm socket for getting the u-joint strap bolts out, preferably an 8mm 6-point box end wrench, AND an 8mm impact socket. Tip: grab a can of "PB" spray from AutoZone, spray it on the bolts before you start, that'll help loosen 'em up.

Oh, yeah, one other thing, run a search, this website has a GREAT search engine, there's other threads chock full of great advice and step-by-step how-to's on clutch installs !!! Even with pictures!

 

[DSiemens]

5 Speed Removal

The job is doable in the driveway. A porta power to spread the frame is real nice. The first time I removed my trans, didn't have one and getting the cross member out and back in was not fun.

Get a transmission adapter for your floor jack. The NV4500 is heavy. Having the truck raised up is necessary for clearance. Jack stands will do nicely.

Plan on changing the crank seal. You are in there anyway and now is a good time to replace.

Is the driveway cement?

The 5 speed gear shifter can be removed in 2 pieces. Grab the shifter and give moderately hard pull. Top piece is off. Below is shifter stub and its holding collar that is removed by depressing the ring/collar while turning ring clockwise. PM me for questions.

 

[WDaniels]

Please educate me. I have removed my transmission twice and am going to do it again and I don't understand what you need to spread the frame for. My cross member comes right out with no problem. Is this a sometime thing or is it on certain years? Just curious.

WD

 

[DSiemens]

crossmember

The transmission crossmember is a very tight fit on my trucks. The last time (about 5 days ago) I had my trans out, I used a porta-power. I watched the porta-power spread the frame at least 2 1/2 inches although it might have been more. That has been my experience so maybe on different trucks the fit might be more user friendly.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I took my crossmember out towards the rear? It's been awhile now and I don't much feel like crawling under to look at it. But, I think what I did was support the rear, unbolt it, lift the rear slightly (transfer case), push the crossmember up and with a rubber mallet, coax it back. Only took it back a few inches and it dropped right out. It sure was no big deal.

 

[bighammer]

Re: crossmember

Originally posted by DSiemens

..... I watched the porta-power spread the frame at least 2 1/2 inches although it might have been more.....

:--) :--) :--)



You have GOT to be kidding. I can't believe you guys are spreading your frames! And that much is especially insane.



If you remove the rear mount and jack the trans up to the sheet metal the crossmember goes up and slides easily. It has a taper to it (sort of "V" shaped) so if it gets the weight off it and has a little room to go up first, you can take out easily.



I do agree a transmission jack is necessary. It's very heavy and having a jack with a wide base and multi axis tilt is really nice to have.



Also line up a shop to re-surface the flywheel and check their hours. (most shops are closed Sat & Sun up here)

 

[DSiemens]

I tried the trick of lifting the transmission up to the sheetmetal to get the crossmember out. My frame was more than just a little tight on the crossmember.

Me thinks that crossmember removal is kinda like an oil thread in which I want no part of. I say use whatever method works for you.

 

[Mel Fuelling]

On these 1st Gen 5spds, a transmission adapter for the top of a 2 1/4 ton floor jack will roll over and hurt you. I had excellent results with a borrowed 1,200# motorcycle lift jack that I fitted to the job with 4 short pieces of 2x4 and cabinet screws. The wood cradle fit the bottom of my Getrag and will probably fit others as well. The motorcycle lift jack has a wide/long footprint and does a better job than many $1,000+ transmission jacks in this

particular application IMHO.

Mel

 

[Animal]

Originally posted by Briar Hopper

A port-a-power hydraulic ram is nice for spreading the frame rails, easier, quicker, less frustrating than hammering on the crossmember to remove it. Tip: Work the crossmember towards the FRONT of the truck, it'll come out easier that way.

I used the jack out of my engine host to spread the frame, worked great.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Crossmember aside, the one thing that comes to mind is to have someone helping you. I had mine out twice by myself working on the floor. While the second time went faster, crawling back and forth will get real old.



Another point, having the bellhousing off will provide more access to the rubber fuel lines. Good time to change those out if you need to. Hmmm. How about the starter contacts?

 

[markdixon]

Thanks for the incite conned a friend that I race with to help me. He has a lift and transmission jack. I have a porta power and snap on tools. And called cummins for a rear main seal and will pick it up. The fuel line replacement is a good idea also and while I am there might as well do the lift pump screen. Just hope that darn clutch makes it here before sat.