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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch install -the other stuff

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Rear main is leaking. Any tricks to the R&R the Cummins seal? (I've done a ford or two).



Re-use flywheel-crank bolts?



Hydraulic Clutch issue. Anybody know how much each . 001 I grind off the flywheel will move the pedal? I like the pedal where it is. When I did the ford we tried to measure everything and added a shim, but that made the pedal a bit low.



I want to measure properly this time and keep from having that problem--of course low is better than high.



Con OFE should be here anyday and I HAVE secured a shop with 10,000# lift and bigarse transmission jack.
 
Sounds like you are about to do what I just did. I started out with the rear main seal leaking and planning to put in a SB Clutch. Sounds like you are doing right by doing it yourself, I have been going through a nightmare with the shop I am at.



The rear main seal is a snap, I have looked at it while mine has been torn apart and once the transmission and fly wheel are out of the way it is a quick and painless job. I am very inexperienced at alot of these more involved jobs on vehicles but I would not hesitate to jump on that one.



As far as clutch pedal travel, I am still wondering where we will be on that one. the first time they put everything together, I was having problems it felt like an on-off swich right off the floor and a spongy pedal the rest of the pedal movement. Like I said before I am new at this and so I can't offer any advice on this aspect. Other than Joe Donnely and Peter at South Bend have both been giving me some good advice and they both seem very knowledgable.



Good Luck and please post up here on how things go with yours, I am curious.



Jon
 
MY FIRST POST!!! What a newbie



I was going to start a simular thread but noticed this one from today asking the same question - I just need a little more info.



I pulled a 26' gooseneck with two "Jeeps" to CO and back (from Houston) this weekend - didn't make it all the way back.



Clutch started slipping (noticed rear main leaking) in OK city. Made it over many passes in CO and all the way back to south OK before I lost the pedal. The clutch held after that and made my driving much easier as long as I didn't have to stop. From there I had to start (in gear) and shift without the pedal. Made it to a little past Waco TX before I had to stop for fuel - it shattered after leaving the station. There are ball bearing laying in my bell housing. :(



which clutch do I get and where do I get it? Need it overnight.



Only has 91,000, would the dealer fix it because the leaky rear main caused it?

What else am I going to need to order? Never heard any grinding, I am hoping the flywheel will be OK. Where should I get the through-out bearing?



NEEDING HELP,

Scott
 
Scott. . Are you stuck in Waco. . or did you make it home to Houston??? I don't have any recommendation on the clutch... but I would not let the Dodge Truck dealer in Waco touch it... If you want a dealer. . you could try the Jeff Hunter Chy dealership. . but I would find a trany shop for the install... .

Bryan



Edit:. . Scott. . You can try Starvent's Transmissions (sp) on 18th & Clay in Waco. . They have built a bunch of Automatic for me... they also do Manual's. . I'm sure they can do a clutch install. . Little Joe is the man in charge...

If you have to have a clutch today. . try Waco Clutch Supply on about 4th or 5th street. . a little place. . but I don't think they do install. . Mr. Finley (can't think of his first name) is the head man. . and usually the guy to talk to about high performance stuff...

Also. I'm sure Petter from South Bend could get you something in a hurry, if you want to go that route...



send me an email if you still need some help...

-- email address removed --
 
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I made it back late last night (early morning) - had one friend get the gooseneck and another grab a trailer and get my Dodge. I was 22 miles west of Hearn on hwy 6. I plan on replacing the clutch myself. Just thought that if I could get it done free (under warrenty), I would do that.



driving my friends 87 K5 blazer... so sad:(
 
TX...

I would say call Peter at Southbend... I have not done business with him, but many on here have and say the product and service are top notch! Here is the phone number: 1-800-988-4345. There web address is www.southbendclutch.com I plan to use him when mine finally goes. :D



I will say there are many clutches out there besides SBC and it is your option. Get the best clutch for what you use the truck for while you are at it. :)
 
Re: TX...

Bearing laying in Bell Housing? IF its the throwout bearing, not sure how it could get over the input shaft to be able to "lay" in the bellhousing, unless the intake shaft broke :(



You might need to call Standard Trans in Fort Worth after you see what really broke.
 
I hope that the outer race just fell apart and let the ball bearings fall down. I would have heard a loud snap if the shaft broke
 
I quote me. Anbody Anywhere?

Originally posted by WadePatton

Rear main is leaking. Any tricks to the R&R the Cummins seal? (I've done a ford or two).



Re-use flywheel-crank bolts? [no-use new bolts]



Hydraulic Clutch issue. Anybody know how much each . 001 I grind off the flywheel will move the pedal? I like the pedal where it is. When I did the ford we tried to measure everything and added a shim, but that made the pedal a bit low.



I want to measure properly this time and keep from having that problem--of course low is better than high.



Con OFE should be here anyday and I HAVE secured a shop with 10,000# lift and bigarse transmission jack.
 
Rear main is easy, don't sweat it, if you've replaced axle bushings/seals before, it's simple enough. Preferable to drill a small hole, and use a slide hammer/screw-in attachment to remove it. You can also deform the edge with a screwdriver & hammer, then pull it out. But it's easy to damage a lot of surfaces that way :eek: Use lots of light, take your time, look twice!

You can re-use the flywheel bolts, it's preferable to use all new. Bolt over-torque & stretch does happen, though it's rare in this case.

The pedal will stay where it is now, but it'll have less effort to throwout the clutch, less effort to depress the pedal. :D Really nice.
 
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Well UPS wants a signature for the clutch. And I spent all day at the muff shop playing with my 5". :D NO not THAT one!:p



I'll get new bolts.



Darn Darn Darn, It might be the NV5600 leaking. Looks too clean to be ROSMELLA. How goes the replacement of that one? I'll have both on hand when I pull it out.



And since it's the first time for this flywheel to be ground and I'll be a grinding it. I'll assume that the pedal will be okay, but I'm gonter try to accurately measure the release/engagement point 'cause they do move a bit.
 
transmission seal is easy to it's of course under the bearing retainer.

Does any one know a procedure to remove the crossmember with the grief. My 1998. 5 is a absolute bear to get in or out. It dovetails nicely to the frame on the assemblyline I'm sure. But after the body is on what a Pain!
 
x member

According to posts on here:



Support the transmission, remove rear mount, unbolt x-member, then move it up and out. It may take some encouraging (hit it with a hammer).



More steps may be necessary for you xfer case toters.



Also, according to DC, support the engine to prevent overstressing the motor mounts.
 
partyat33 The hydraulic ram is a excellent Idea, bit of a frame spreader eh? I had to use a Ford wrench- (five pound model) and drive it up to the floor then back. Glad to see it's just not me!
 
pedal

Job done. Good news, rear main is NOT leaking. And if it is the 5600 it's very slight and I left the original seal there too.



I took about . 008 off the flywheel and the pedal is way lower now. I couldn't stand it to be any lower.



Very slight, wee tad of grabbiness, but not bad and she holds all I've got now.



And the pilot bearing is a bit noisy, but then I used a oilite bronze bushing instead of the kevlar or needle job.
 
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You guys remember the old bumper jacks that fit into a slot on the bumper, gm and dodge both used them in the 60 thru 80s? Well the jack works great to spread the frame to get the cross member in and out. Fits perfect between the frame rails without using blocks.

Kyle
 
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