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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder replacement

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Hi all. I'm fairly new to this forum, and don't know how to look this up, so need your help. My 98 24 valve with 5 speed recently left my wife "hi and dry". She was not able to shift the truck, called me, and from what I could gather, had lost the clutch, so had it towed home. On further exam, I found I could not put the truck in gear with the clutch in and engine running, but could shut the engine off, put it in gear, and start it. So, I assume its either the clutch master cylinder, or the slave cylinder. I looked in the service manual, and they make it sound like the units come as a package deal. I called the local parts house, and they said I could get the master cylinder for $107, or the whole set-up for $209. Can these parts actually be separated and serviced, or not? Have any of you ran into this problem, and where did you get your parts? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Get the sealed unit. South Bend has a good one that is adjustable. Do you have a good pedal? The reason I asked is a seized pilot bearing will cause the same problem. That calls for trans removal though.
 
clutch

Thanks for the input. The clutch pedal appears soft and unpredictable, and makes a "whooshing" sound when I step on it. I also noticed that you have a gear vendors overdrive in your truck. How do you like it? Does it help your fuel mileage much, and how about dependability? Where did you get yours? Thanks, Don.
 
They can be serviced separately. However, I wouldn't do it that way. When mine died, I was able to get the whole kit from the dealer for $175 (wholesale pricing). It's a little bit of a bugger to route the part around the brake booster, but not too bad. Start at the pedal and work down to the trans. Connect the slave cylinder before bolting it up. Before I went to the dealer, I priced the parts at Advance. They wouldn't match RockAuto's price, but they would come off of their price some. You may try printing the section from RockAuto's catalog and taking it with you to your local parts store.
 
DBelshee, I have had the GV since around '97. Didn't get it just for mileage increase and surely can't justify the cost just for that reason. I like the splitting when I am towing. Also, as the 5th in the 4500 is so weak, I pull in 4th over at about the same rpm's with more confidence. It also is a smooth unit, no vibration issues at all with mine.

Reliability, well I have gone through three of them. GV has a good exchange policy, $600 I think, for a unit after the warranty period.

Hope I answered your questions ok.
 
I just ordered hydraulics from South Bend this last Friday. I think the master and slave pre-bleed, adjustable was like $325. Little more expensive but I am thinking will not have to purchase another set of clutch hydraulics. For almost 6 months if I put any pressure on the clutch pedal it would bleed down and pedal to to floor. As I was leaving California(you think it this happened because I was there for a week!!!!) sometimes the pedal was soft and other times normal when rolling through gears. I made it back before the hydraulics went completely south. Even when soft there was just enough to disengage the clutch until the last 2 before getting in the garage here at home. I wanted to get this done before I pull the 5er done to Phoenix for the month of November. You know NASCAR(desert camping 1 week), Thanksgiving with family, and annual business.

I really don't think it will be a tough replacement. Am I right should connect the master and slave together before installation will make life better?
 
I recently replaced a master cylinder in an 02 with similar symptoms. $65 in stock from the local Carquest. It's an easy swap can be done in less than an hour with the proper coaching.

-Scott
 
The kit from South Bend comes all connected and ready to go. I just did mine a few weeks ago in the dark by the light of small headlamp I was wearing. It's really straightforward to do. You just have to have a little patience in getting into the tight spots. If you can turn a wrench and rachet, all you have to do is bolt it on. Nothing more.
 
The kit from South Bend comes all connected and ready to go. I just did mine a few weeks ago in the dark by the light of small headlamp I was wearing. It's really straightforward to do. You just have to have a little patience in getting into the tight spots. If you can turn a wrench and rachet, all you have to do is bolt it on. Nothing more.



HHMMMM I got all the above and more except patience. I better stock up on beer. Tight places when your 245lbs big hands; more beer I think!!!



Thanks for the help by the way.
 
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