I have done two clutchs now (both in one month), and it is not a bad project. 5 to 8 hours to get it done.
It is easy to pull both the transmission and transfer case at the same time, not worth splitting them unless you have a leak already.
TOOLS:
· transmission jack
· 2 or 3 ratchet straps
· porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4x4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4x4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4x4 a couple of inches
· Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.
· various other garage implements.
1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6” off the ground. You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.
2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.
3. Remove the skid plate.
4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer case.
5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case
6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the frame.
7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.
8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.
9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the transmission.
10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to the transmission. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.
11. Set the transmission jack under the transmission in the rear half of the transmission. Use a ratchet strap to help secure the transmission to the jack. Take care no to have the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that the transmission will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on the transmission.
12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the transfer case mount
13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the transfer case mount.
14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the cross member towards the rear.
15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached to the transmission (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow…) and remove the porta power
16. lower the transmission about 1 to 1. 5 inches.
17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch.
18. Remove the last two bolts and split the transmission from the engine.
19. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access hole to the cab. You may have to lower the transmission some more, or lift the front of the engine.
20. Once the transmission is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push the transmission back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the exhaust mount bracket.
21. Once the transmission is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.
22. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about ½ way in.
23. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the friction plate and into the flywheel bearing
24. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.
25. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel
26. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel
27. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.
28. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until it breaks loose from the engine.
29. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold on to it a little better.
30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.
31. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the transmission and on the left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it os on there so you can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and install the new one.
32. Reinstall the clutch lever in the transmission.
33. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS.
34. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the flywheel
35. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque (90ft pounds) in a star or criss cross pattern.
36. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!
37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.
38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure plate.
39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a time BY HAND. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!
40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (20ft pounds)
41. Roll the transmission into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift tower in the cab. Watch for anything the transmission may catch on (4wd linkage, clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses…)
42. Once you have the transmission lined up and partially inserted into the clutch assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.
43. Continue to move the transmission into the clutch, being careful not to fore it. Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier.
44. Once the transmission is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and tighten them up.
45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the transmission up at the same speed.
46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, …1)
To be continued tonight. I have to get ready for work. You guys let me know if you want it continued, or I missed something.
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