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Clutch pedal BUZZ/vibe on 5kmi 5.9 07

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My 5. 9l 4x4 6spd Mega cab has developed a buzzing/vibe in the pedal when making a higher rpm shift in the last week.

I searched and found some posts about clutch vibe but most were replacement after market clutches.

Mine is stock w/less than 5k miles, no heavy towing (only a bass boat).

Any ideas, need to take the truck in for peeling door seal and would like a little heads up info on my trans problem before taking it in.

Thanks in advance.

Troy
 
The pedal is vibrating or the clutch?

If the pedal is vibrating, this does not mean there's a clutch problem. The clutch and pedal are connected hydraulically, and there's pretty much no way a clutch problem is going to vibrate the pedal.

Ryan
 
My new '07,5. 9 does it too and I have only 1300miles on it. Just figured it was the nature of the beast. It doesn't do it at under 2,000rpm. It does it as the clutch is depressed during shifting.

Any older trucks with the G56 experience this???
 
Thanks for the reply.

This is not clutch chatter or shudder, it feels like a metal engraver is attached to the pedal.

The vibration is being transmitted into/through the pedal. It feels like when the throwout brg begins to engage and disengage the clutch fingers there is a high frequency vibration/buzzing feeling created and that is being transmitted into the pedal. And yes, compressed hydraulic fluid is a good transmitter of vibration/pressure pulses.

Not sure where or how it is generated, but there is a buz/vibe in the clutch pedal that is rpm related. Low rpm stop and go, no vibe, rowing through the gears is when you feel it. Buz is not felt throughout the entire pedal travel, just as pressure is applied and released.

Was hoping this might be a recognized problem that can be addressed without alot of hassle from the dealer

Thanks again.

Troy



ps, I see your in Dayton. I grew up on frederick pike, graduated fron Northridge HS 26 yrs ago. From what I hear, N'ridge has changed alot.
 
The vibration is being transmitted into/through the pedal. It feels like when the throwout brg begins to engage and disengage the clutch fingers there is a high frequency vibration/buzzing feeling created and that is being transmitted into the pedal. And yes, compressed hydraulic fluid is a good transmitter of vibration/pressure pulses.



Seems like you've already got it diagnosed. Yours is the first I've heard of this problem, but I guess someone's got to be first! I assume the pitch changes with RPM.



I'm not convinced hydraulic fluid is a good vibration transmitter, particularly through two piston/cylinder arrangements with a fluid reservoir. In my opinion, oil is often used to fill dampeners. Am I wrong? I'm not a hydraulics expert.



If it's under warranty, I'd suggest asking the dealer to replace the throwout bearing.



If not, it's time to pull the transmission!



['Course, if it were my truck - and this is just my opinion - I'd try a little lubricant at the clutch pedal and maybe check tension at the hinge pin. ;)]



Ryan
 
Just a question... Did the dual mass flywheel start when the G56 was installed? It seems odd that I only have 1300 miles and mine is doing this.
 
My '05 clutch pedal started its vibe at @1000 miles. Annoying. I think there is a soft bearing at the 'elbow' of the pedal that moves, with use, out of its designed position. Vaseline and WD-40 help for a little while. It will go away as mine did, never to be heard again. I thought, at first, it was loose change in the console. Your truck has 'character'.
 
G56 Dmf

Yes, the G56 uses a DMF, torsion dampened disc, and a Self Adjusting Cover, (the clutch industry knows then as SAC), LuK is the US market leader in SAC technology and applications. The DMF and disc in this application is theirs. Credit where due to them.
 
Diagnosis Ideas.

1. These DFM's have been know to fail and they will actually go out of balance. Test by running the engine, trans in NEUTRAL, increase RPM feel for actual engine vibration. We have a failed G56 DMF here in our lab from a TDR member. Mileage has not been as low as your truck of course.

2. Remove the slave cylinder, pull the fork back in the direction of the rear axle, tie with safety wire so fork stays put. It will take two people to start the engine, one pushes the slave cylinder pushrod back into the slave body and holds it, the other carefully pushes on the clutch pedal, pushrod starts to moves out, maintain pressure on pushrod, (option would be to bypass or fool the clutch pedal safety switch) start truck, run engine, feel for vibration. The TOB is clipped into the fork and will stay put on the fork.

I'm suggesting this as a way to take the release bearing out of the equation and see if it goes away or stays.
 
Thanks to all who replied.

Hope to get under it this weekend and see what I can find . Bought the truck on June 11, it should be under waranty.

Troy
 
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