Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch Recommendation

[MBowser]

I searched the forums for upgraded clutches and Southbend seems to be the choice, but I thought I saw something out there where someone had the complete kit: Hydraulics, Flywheel, Dbl Disk Clutch, Pressure Plate, etc, for roughly 1600.



If someone could help me I appreciate it. What I want is one for towing, not planning on taking the hp over 600, currently with the Edge w/att, RV275 injectors, the stock clutch is going and quickly especially with 10K on the back... YES YES I KNOW... I ought to keep my foot out of it... but sometimes you can't cause its FUUUNN



Thanks

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

From what you say I think a South Bend OFE single disk with a new flywheel would be very sufficient, AND you will not need new hydraulics as long as your current one is good. Not to mention less $$ up front.

600hp is a lot and there are not very many street driven trucks at that power that tow much, I think egt's would be a constant issue. The OFE will take a lot of abuse. If you do eventually outgrow the single disk you can always sell it to held fund the double disk.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[MBowser]

Blacksheep Thank You... now the hydraulics seems to have a slow leak some where, but I am not seeing any signs under the truck other than that breather on the front of the block oozing

 

[EDankievitch]

How do you know when your clutch is starting to fail? I'm not slipping but the peddel is real high almost at the top 1/4 of the stroke. For a stock truck what kind of milage should I get? And should I stay stock or up grade to a southbend system?

 

[rkressg]

Usually when these clutches fail, they will start to slip. The life expectancy on a clutch depends on the driver(s), loading, HP, driving conditions, and many other variables. There are some individuals here who have 200k on a stock clutch, others get 20k out of a clutch. I have gone through 6 or 7 clutches (I can not really remember), the last 3 were SBC 3850-12CB DD clutches. I destroyed a TST clutch, and never found all the parts, and an FE lasted about 3 months before it started to slip (too much HP).



To be completely honest, an FE does not grab all that worse than a stock clutch, and will hold significantly more power than an OFE clutch. For the amount of effort required to change a clutch, you might as well try to do it only once (get the FE). When you upgrade, the FE still has the stock diaphragm pressure plate, and you can get the flywheel machined at a local machine shop. If you have only had the stock organic clutch and it was not abused, than the flywheel will be almost perfect when you take it out (assuming the rivets never came in contact with the surface of the flywheel).



The clutch will come with a pressure plate and alignment tool. While you have it apart, get the upgraded hydraulic unit from Peter and a new pilot bearing.



Unless you get into high HP or heavy towing, you will not need a DD clutch. All the SBC products are very smooth (I have tried many of them on different trucks).

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

If you are going to tow with an FE clutch the real kicker is when you go to back up a trailer. Since the FE is "stickier" it is difficult to slip resulting in driveline chatter. Extremly annoying.

The best bet is you call Peter at South Bend and tell him your story, he will not mislead you!!!

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[jeepit]

Hmmm, My buddy just put an SB clutch in and it is not smooth at all. It grabs too much if you ask me... You have to really feather it when releasing. He is getting use to it but I don't htink I could get use to it...

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

jeepit,

Which clutch did he install and how does he use the truck?

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[jeepit]

jeepit,



Which clutch did he install and how does he use the truck?



Godspeed,

Trent

It is recommended clutch for up to 400 HP 900 TQ by SBC. Not sure if that helps. He uses mostly to haul 8000lb trailer.

His stock clutch was slipping and got this one...

He has a 12 valver turned up, injectors.....

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Sounds like he has a few miles on it. Time for a 3rd gear burn out! Trailer unhitched, of course.

Seriously, have him do the 3rd gear burn out, it should help smooth out the operation of the clutch.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[PC12Driver]

Seriously, have him do the 3rd gear burn out, it should help smooth out the operation of the clutch.

If he's got an OFE, that sort of thing cannot be good for the organic side.

 

[jkalchik]

I'll chime in with my $0. 02... ...

99 with Jammer Stage II tips, a Smarty, and a 4" SS exhaust with 225k on the odometer.

I discovered after I started tinkering with the Smarty that I could slip the clutch. Horribly slipping, that is. But not consistently. After spending an entire evening perusing 'net posts, and realizing that I can't afford a conOFE clutch at the moment, I took a chance and ordered SBC's upgraded master/slave clutch hydraulics.

Wow.

Since then, the clutch has behaved much better. I've set the Smarty on kill, and it's much more difficult to get the clutch to slip at the moment.

Before anybody says anything about my driving style, every vehicle I've owned as a driver has been a stick. I don't like automatics in the least. And my modified Jeep Cherokee has a 5spd as well.

By now, I'm developing the opinion that a lot of clutch problems really aren't, and the problem is with the hydraulics. In short, replace the hydraulics if you're replacing the clutch.

 

[SSolderitch]

South Bend is a very nice clutch, I do love it, however it is a little hard on my left knee. I drop it in netural, wait for the light, then drop it in 2nd and go. The extra 5-10 seconds is no problem. It is easer at night when you can see the yellow. I believe I have stock hydrolics, I was wandering if SB is larger (less pedal effort)? We will see after a season of plowing snow... . I still have a gasser/auto plow truck.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

SSolderitch,

Which clutch do you have?

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[SSolderitch]

it is in my sig, installed by previous owner, don't know for sure... but listed as an OFE in the for sale ad. I talked with his repair shop (for ball joints) and they told me he spent over $1000 (with flywheel?) and had them install it. He is a TDR member and always upgrade things.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

I also have an SB OFE, it is even the new style. Pedal pressure is much easier than the previous whatever brand x was in the truck and comparable if not lighter than a stock clutch. Were new hydraulics also installed? Something doesn't sound right...

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[jkalchik]

South Bend is a very nice clutch, I do love it, however it is a little hard on my left knee. I drop it in netural, wait for the light, then drop it in 2nd and go. The extra 5-10 seconds is no problem. It is easer at night when you can see the yellow. I believe I have stock hydrolics, I was wandering if SB is larger (less pedal effort)? We will see after a season of plowing snow... . I still have a gasser/auto plow truck.

Personally, I noted very little difference between the stock hydraulics and SBC's.

 

[jdross440]

My Southbend clutch has only 25K miles on it. I don't tow more than a small trailer (4K lbs max and seldom even that). It is used mostly for transportation. It is starting to slip in 6th gear which really disappoints me since the factory clutch didn't start slipping until 150K (and I pulled a 7K trailer with it regularly).

 

[jkalchik]

My Southbend clutch has only 25K miles on it. I don't tow more than a small trailer (4K lbs max and seldom even that). It is used mostly for transportation. It is starting to slip in 6th gear which really disappoints me since the factory clutch didn't start slipping until 150K (and I pulled a 7K trailer with it regularly).

If you didn't replace the master/slave hydraulic set, think seriously about doing that before getting back into the clutch.

I thought I had a horribly slipping clutch. While it may not be the greatest clutch condition, replacing the hydraulic set has apparently bought me some time before I have to get the SB conOFE.

 

[jdross440]

I had replaced the hydraulics about 2 months prior to replacing the clutch. The master cylinder had failed and wouldn't release the clutch.