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Clutch replacement NV5600

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Here are a few photos of my clutch / flywheel / pressure plate. The truck is a 2003 2WD 3500 with the NV5600 transmission. It has about 116K miles. Lots of city driving. The clutch was removed since I suspected the pilot bearing was worn out and the rear main is leaking (just a little). The clutch was just starting to shudder a little but only when the engine was cold. It probably makes sense to also change the oil pan gasket since I am this far along.



I will post any tips that might be helpful for others taking on the job. I will put together a summary when the job is complete.



I am open to suggestions on the clutch kit I should purchase. The truck is stock and will probably remain stock. Towing... maybe a 5000 pound trailer every now and then. I think flywheel replacement is a given. Also, the sealed roller pilot bearing probably needs to be added.



I have heard a lot of good things about South Bend Clutch. But the OEM clutch lasted 116K miles and most of that was city driving. Has anyone had a South Bend Clutch last this long while driving mostly in the city?



Thanks for any help,

Paul Lohr



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Photos in Picasa with notes:

https://picasaweb. google.com/116994073827561534328/DodgeRam3500ClutchReplacement?authkey=Gv1sRgCL6e5f-YkPaTYQ
 
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I'm pretty sure that Dodge offers a HD version of these for about the same price as the stock replacement. Being that you got so much out of the factory unit I wouldn't change a thing. I had a SB twin disc in my last truck and loved it. The guy I sold it to has his wife driving it back and forth from SD to AL and her last trip, she rolled across the scales at 26K. Point being, that a woman can drive that clutch and it has never slipped. To date that SB clutch has around 50K miles on it and has no problems.
 
I had 187k on my original stock clutch and replaced it with another stock unit from NAPA for around $950. 00, which came as a kit including a new flywheel. I have about 50k on the replacement so far and expect it will last at least another 75k. Good luck.
 
The OEM Luk clutch has served you well and there is no reason to replace it with anything but another Luk. That's all I ever used in my '01 and I towed heavy trailers with it on a regular basis.
 
If it was my truck, I'd take a light cut on the FW, replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing and clutch disc, and put it back together.
 
If it was my truck, I'd take a light cut on the FW, replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing and clutch disc, and put it back together.



I tend to agree with this. The friction plate looks to have lots of life left and I would not install an aggressive clutch like the one I have (ConOfe) if you haven't added power. The driveability loss just isn't worth it.
 
I agree with the above statements. If you have stock power, the stock clutch will serve well. I recently installed a South Bend street dual disk and it's great, but not necessary in your case. I would install a new pressure plate, disc, throw out and pilot bearing and have the flywheel turned AT A QUALITY shop. After I bought my truck, I replaced a 4000mile OEM clutch that was chattering. It looked like they hit it with a buffing wheel and slapped a new disc in... no wonder it chattered and slipped under near stock power. Also, the rear main seal is a good idea. I got mine from Napa and it came with the install tool.
 
I have been using South Bend since 1999, just replaced a ofe at 300,000mi. It looked like it could go another 40 to 50k easy. Reason for pulling was to replace release bearing and pilot bearing. The most important part is the pilot bearing. If you let it get too bad it will eat the input shaft which can be expensive. I replace the pilot bearing every 100 to 125k. I also use neutral when stopped, that increases the life of both bearings. Always replace the clutch slave cylinder assembly. This is based on 14yrs and over one million miles with 2nd Gen 24v and TDR. South Bend can`t be beat for service and quality. Call Peter and talk with him, he will not try to BS you.
Good Luck
 
Are there heat damaged areas on that pressure plate, or are the subtle blue areas just a reflection of the clothing you were wearing when you took the photo?

-Ryan
 
Wow, my cup overflows. Thank you gentlemen for taking your time to help me. This is great.

rbatelle,
Yes, there are blue areas on the pressure plate and flywheel.

captphil,
Can you give me an idea of what portion of the 300K miles is city driving? Do you pull a trailer most of the time?

We've probably all seen the statement in the factory service manual about the 'unique contour' of the flywheel surface. There are blue areas on the flywheel but really no scoring. I assume the glaze needs to be taken off along with the blue areas. I'm a little nervous about even light machining of the flywheel because the unique contour will be at least slightly removed. Can anyone offer guidance on light machining of the flywheel? Perhaps a new, properly matched flywheel is worth the little bit of extra money?

Thanks again, gentlemen.
 
Good machine shops can perform the conical (I think thats the term) machining. Mine was machined in that manor before DDP installed the new SBC in my truck.
 
Question: How does one know when the PILOT bearing is going bad??

Bill



1. Noise with the clutch pedal in released (down) position. Engine is turning, clutch is released and the input shaft is not turning, pilot bearing is active at this time. Noise is possible.



2. Shifting difficulties. If the needle cage has deteriorated the needles can pile up and jam, continuining to rotate input shaft, difficult shifting particluary from standing start.



You control how much pilot bearing life you are consuming. Life can be extended by selecting N at lights or stops when conditions permit allowing pilot bearing to be inactive extending life.
 
Paul
I transported 30ft to 40ft boats, combined weight of trailer and boat anywhere
between 10k and 18k. S. Fl. to Long Island N. Y. That puts a truck through hell.
Long runs on cruise, then traffic jams with 10 to 15 mph stop&go with alot of uphill starts plus the strain of backing 40ft triple axle trailer. A real test of clutch and truck. It has been my policy to reface flywheel when replacing the clutch also replace flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.
Good Luck
 
Paul,

If you just put it back together with a new pilot, be sure to wire brush the spline area on the clutch disc and lightly lube it. I just had to pull my 5600 because the dry/rusty condition did not allow the clutch to completely release. I thought it was a pilot bearing problem but it was ok. I think Dodge did not do anything to keep these things from rusting when they assembled them and from the picture your's looks the same as mine was. After cleaning mine is ok but I did replace the pilot and clutch release bearings as maintenance.

Rog
 
Thanks very much, gentlemen, this helps a lot. Understood about the splines, Rog.

So far I've not found a machine shop in the area (Fort Myers, FL) that can machine the flywheel properly. One machine shop said they would look at the flywheel to determine if they can machine it and maintain the conical shape (or 'unique contour' as the factory calls it). Of course I would rather hear "yes, we have machined flywheels in that same manner".
 
PM Joe Donnelly and ask him how the flywheel should be refinished. Years ago I had a friend of Joe's, a mechanic he recommended, install a new clutch in my '01. Joe had specific advice about how the flywheel should be prepared and his mechanic arranged to have it done at a machine shop in NV where Joe lived at the time. I've forgotten the term - my fading memory wants to say it was "burnished", not turned in a lathe, but don't rely on my memory.
 
I believe you are referring to having the flywheel ground rather than turned. My buddy runs an automotive machine shop. When I replaced my clutch we ground it about . 0015. He went over the wheel with a straight edge and found it to have no special contour. The new clutch has been fine for the last 100,000 miles.
 
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