Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch Slipping-Recommendations

[LJFiler]

Sorry for such a long post. My clutch is slipping in 5 and 6 gears at WOT especially with a trailer and on grades. Empty it still slips just a little in 5 and 6 gears WOT. The truck is 2001. 5 4x4 with 98236 miles. The truck is stock except for the Puck from Diablo Sports and OEM replacement K&N air filter. I purchased these prior to becoming a member of the TDR, and being introduced to a wealth of valuable information that the TDR members have to offer. I want to know which clutch to put in the truck. And can I continue to drive the truck until my 2005 3500 SRW 4x4 6spd that I have order comes in without damaging anything else? I am leaning toward a SB. I have never changed the clutch on a CTD, what tools, and do I have to drop the transfer case and transmission or can I slid it back far enough to put in the new clutch? If you have to drop them can you drop them together? I plan on replacing the through out bearing and pilot bushing/bearing. Recommendations on which brand or supplier that are better than others would be helpful as well. I frequently pull trailers over 8000lbs and do not plan on adding any further power mods to the truck. I have not called Peter at SB yet, before I did I would like to get some advice from the great members here. Any information and help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Beast2B]

Southbend ConFE clutch in mine, love it. Are you keeping this truck when the 05 shows up? If not, put a stock replacement back in for the cost savings, 100k ain't bad and if the next owner wants more power they can change it. If you're keeping it, or plan on selling it to family or a friend, put a minor upgrade clutch in; Con O, Con OFE.

I don't know about other brands, I'm sure someone will chime in. Southbend works great for me.

 

[MKoth]

You are better off to split the t-case and trans, as the NV5600 is a very heavy. I left the t-case and trans together, but had two people to help with the install, as there is no way one person can move that much mass without some help.



Other then that, it is a easy job, the cross member under the t-case takes a decent size hammer to get out, and to put back in.



Just make sure you remember which way the rubber gasket under the shift tower goes in. If installed upside down, it will leak really bad. Don't ask how I figured that one out... .

 

[PC12Driver]

The clutch change on these trucks isn't too bad technically, just time consuming. The extra height of the 4wd makes it easier to get around under. Two things that I wouldn't do without are a transmission cradle for a floor jack, and a bottle jack with a length of 4x4 (to spread the frame a bit to remove the x-member). Some x-members come out easier than others, so you may or may not need the bottle jack. I removed the transfer case and then just slid the transmission back a couple of feet with the floor jack.



The engine will want to fall forward when the transmission is removed, so make sure it is supported. When the weight of the transmission is on the floor jack and before you unbolt it from the engine, lower the transmission a couple of inches and then support the front of the engine. This makes it easier to reach the top few transmission mount bolts.



Resurface the flywheel. Slipping clutches put heat marks on the flywheel, which can cause chatter with a new clutch. Grinding is best, but turning will work. Just sanding won't do - some of the heat marks will go several thousanths into the flywheel, and a sander won't go deep enough and keep it flat. Running with a slipping clutch will put more/deeper heat marks on the flywheel over time.



SBC is the way to go. Probably a CON-O would be enough for you with your current mods (rated for 350hp/750tq). It's still organic on both sides, so it'll be nice and smooth, especially with trailers. The OFE and FE start getting grabby (metal to metal friction material), and would be more clutch than you need. The SBC kits come with new bearings and an alignment tool, so nothing else is needed. Give Peter @ SBC a call and he'll hook you up.

 

[LJFiler]

I am going to keep the truck, it actually will become a work truck for around the farm. Thanks for all the info so far.

 

[Beast2B]

Ditto the transmission/t-case split if you're not using a transmission jack. It's easier/quicker if they are together with a hoist and transmission jack.

 

[GMincher]

Just did this job 3 weeks ago. Give Southbend a call... period. The job itself is straightforward. Take your time, have a trans jack,(I used a floor jack only) at your disposal, and take the transfer case off. I'm pretty strong but that trans. case is childs play compared to a NP205 cast iron unit! No problems, no special tools needed. I must say there sure is an assortment of fasteners though! Some metric, some standard I wish they'd make up their mind! Good luck, Greg

 

[PC12Driver]

No kidding about the assortment of fasteners! The amount of sockets, extensions, etc. that I had on the floor with me was almost out of hand.



I seem to remember a 15mm deepwell coming in handy quite a bit. Crossmember maybe?

 

[rkressg]

Every time I change a clutch, I leave the transfer case on the transmission with a 6-speed, not only is it less work, but it gives the transmission balance because the bell housing goes with the transmission when you pull it off the truck.



With the weight of that transmission, I would suggest getting (or atleast renting) a transmission jack. Way too heavy of a transmission to try and use just a floor jack, if it falls off, you will not be able to catch it (and hold it). They do make transmission jack adapters for floor jacks which will work, all you need is something to hold the transmission on the jack.



To aid in the installation of the transmission, get a set of pins (some all thread works great) to help align the transmission when reinstalling. Use the all thread to pry the transmission inplace (using the bell housing bolt holes) and line up the input shaft into the pilot bering. This is IMHO the most difficult part of changing a clutch on the 6-speed.



Overall it is not that difficult of a job, it just stinks that you will be jammed under the truck for a few hours. You will need a helper with this job. Just take your time and remember, when installing the pressure plate, torque bolts in a cross pattern, and DO NOT over torque those little bolts. If you torque out of sequence, you can warp the flywheel or break the heads off those bolts (removing a broken gr8 bolt is not all that easy.



Good luck, if you have any additional questions, please ask.

-Rich

 

[Sticks]

Leave the transfer case attached. Get somebody to help you with the muscle end of things, but can be done in the driveway solo with some ratchet straps to assist in moving the transmission around.



TDR FAQ Clutch direcitons