clutch/starter lock out

[19Kgvw]

Well, it's been a long time, been tied up with work. Question, my clutch/starter switch seems to be intermittent. Sometimes, it takes extra pressure on the clutch pedal to bypass the switch. It may be worn bushings or the switch going out. Anybody out there with the same problem?



Also, I noticed the TDR purchase on Bilstien shocks. I was looking at the Rancho 9000's, but are the Bil's better for our application?

Thanks for your opinions, I'm glad everyone has one!!!

 

[KEENO]

You might also want to check the single wire connector that goes to the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid for proper contact. Mine was loose & I thought it was the clutch/lockout switch.



KEENO

 

[Paychk]

19Kgvw



Been there and done that and if it is like mine was, it is spendy to fix. Where the clutch petal and the clutch master cylinder rod meet, the plastic bushing wears out and then it is metal to metal contact, which equals a new pedal and master cylinder assy. The pivot pin on the pedal was 1/4 gone and the eye of the push rod was almost worn through. If I remember right the only way to get the pedal was at the "Stealer" and the push rod isn't a separate item, so the new cylinder. About 4 bills I think, at least that range. If you get the cylinder at the "Stealer" then it only comes as a unit with the slave cylinder to boot. That is what makes it the four bills.



PS don't forget the plasic bushing that started all of this and apply some grease to it, maybe it will last a while that way.

 

[JHolt]

I just bypassed the clutch/starter switch... I grew up learning to push the clutch in when I start the engine so I have a built-in leg-brain-hand mechanism that serves the same purpose. I hate any kind of electrical "safety" that forces me to do things that I do anyway.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I'm with jholt. After replacing my clutch master/slave cylinder I still had a no start problem so I wired it to a normally off push button on the dash - end of problem.

Happy trails

Bob