Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Clutch-to-flywheel bolts

[BigPapa]

Can anybody tell me what size, thread pitch, and grade the clutch-to-flywheel bolts are? It's on a '95 with an NV4500 and an SBC Con O clutch. I didn't think about calling the parts room until they were closed.



Thanks,

Scott

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I don't have the part number but they are 5/16 x 18 thread, with a shoulder, grade 8, flange head. Get them from Dodge.

 

[DieselTweaker]

if at all possible find a ARP dealer and get some fo there bolts worth the money and one less thing to worry about.

 

[HCanales]

I don't remember the specifications but, I doesn't matter as long as you

get the correct bolts and your best source is the dealer. You cant try a

hardware store but, I still say the dealer is your best choice. I did try looking

for the part numbers because, I save a lot of them from my conversion but

no luck. Further, its very important you use loktite, the loktite is very

important for almost all your bolts on the conversion.

HCanales



Note: I think the bolts were almost four dollars each

 

[BigPapa]

The closest Dodge dealer with them in stock is 75 miles away. I checked on the ARP's, they don't have a listing for my truck. Joe's right on the 5/16-18. The longest they had was from a Ford application and they were about 3/4" long. I found some Mr. Gasket pressure plate bolts that are 1" long, no flange head, but they do have the shoulder. The problem is that I'm getting it put in Monday. Do you think the Mr. Gaskets will be OK?



HCanales, do you remember if the drive shaft length was the same as your auto? I have the front half of the manual drive shaft so I have the proper yoke. Will all I need to do is swap out the yokes or will I need some drive shaft work? Also, the hole in the floor for the shifter, is there one already there or is it marked in some way? I have a transmission tech doing it for me but he wants me to take care of the hole. I already have the pedals in. Man were they more work than I thought they would be!



Thanks,

Scott

 

[HCanales]

On my 4wd I didn't change the drive rear shaft but, the front shaft I did

change. The shaft was rear shaft needed to be 1/2" longer because the

the manual was 1/2" shorter than the auto. To make myself clear on front

shaft, I'm talking about the shaft that comes out of the tranfercase to the

front axle, you should be ok on your lenght but I'm not a 100% sure on that.

You will need to make sure the same thing applies for a 2wd as it does for 4wd.



Now the hole on the floor, there is no marking or anything so I had to make a

template off of another manual truck like mine(talk about hard to find around

here). My suggestion on that is to find another truck with a manual that

you can copy where the bolts go on the inner boot. Once you have the inner

boot screws in place then the rest will fall right into place and you can start

the hole. Beware, you don't want to cut the hole out of place because, it

has the potential of stretching/tearing the inner boot and collecting fumes

in the cab(I've seen it done on my friends conversion).



You say you got the pedals in and did you find clutch pedal start switch?

It is important that you wire your clutch pedal switch and your "P"(park on

the automatic) switch correctly. I sheared my gear selector lever off in the

steering collum in the "P" position so the switch is always on. Thereafter,

I put the upper and lower steering collum cover from the manual and you

will never know if it came like that from the factory.



HCanales