Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch UGHHHHHH

[FTotts]

Anyone have any sage advice on R&R a clutch in an 01 4x4? I rolled under the truck this evening, there is a bunch of stuff in the way that has to go. Looks like it is going to take a couple days. Lets hear the horror stories,

Thanks

Fred

 

[SeanM]

Are talking about replacing your clutch?

 

[FTotts]

Unfortunatly yes we are, I am sorry R&R means remove and replace.

Thanks

 

[jhoughton]

With the use of a good transmission jack. A way of spreading the frame to get the crossmember out. Then remove the shift tower from inside the cab. Drop the drivesafts out of the way. Remove the 6 or 8 bolts that attach to the engine. Slide it back and out. Can be done in half a day if you have done one before. If it's a 4x4 leave the transfer case attached (unhook the 4x4 shift linkage) if you can and pull it down as an assembly. Most quality clutch kits come with the allignment tool for reinstallation of the clutch. Make sure and replace the throughout bearing also. I recommend SBC has handled everything I have thrown at it so far. Estimating 400 HP and 8-900ftlb trq with the 22. 5 inch wheels. Have pulled over 25K total weight from Washington back to Tennessee this year. If your close I may be able to give you a hand.



Jim

 

[SeanM]

Its not to hard to do and you don't need spread the frame, though it does make it easier. If you push the crossmember up you can beat it back towards the rear axle with a dead blow hammer. As far as the transfer case that is up to you if I do the trans by my self without a vehicle lift, I like to take the t-case off to make the weight a little more managable. Its up to you. Now I also always get the flywheel resurfaced and replace the hydraulics when I do a clutch. If you don't resurface your flywheel it will by far reduce your new clutches life and preformance. Its kind of like replacing your brake pads and not cutting your rotors. I replace the hydraulics because when you put your new pressure plate on you are bringing the spring pressure back to stock or more so you stand a good chance of blowing out your slave cylinder, although if that does happen on our trucks it easy to replace because the slave cylinder is located on the side of the bellhousing so thats up to you to decide. I think inside your bellhousing you have a pivot ball that the clutch fork rides on. Inspect it closely for wear and put a little bit of grease on it. Last but not least torque specs. You must use the proper loc tite and torque specs when you put your flywheel and pressure plate on, you don't want those bolts backing off after you put your new clutch in. If you don't have a good service manual let me know and I will get the torque specs for you.

 

[Sticks]

I did this write up a while back.

I still use the same procedure.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-gen-24-valve-engine-transmission-faq/104448-how-change-clutch.html

After a quick read through, the only thing I do different is step 43, I use a socket wrench on the dampener to rotate the engine. I suppose if one wanted to just separate the U-joint at the output shaft and leave the yoke in the transmission and turn that...

It's fun going back and reading my old write ups. Now I am a professional mechanic that does this for a living, where as then I was barely a shade tree DIY kind of guy.

 

[Beast2B]

At least the 5-speed is A LOT lighter than the 6-speed! Keep the t/case attached, it's not too bad to handle with a sturdy trans jack.

 

[FTotts]

Thanks Gents,

The job has been rescheduled for next weekend. I will keep you all posted.

Fred