Archived Clutch Won't Disengage

[Stroker Smoker]

I went to push in the clutch and noticed that the clutch did't disengage.



The petal feels normal, maybe a little soft.



Checked the fluid - all is ok



I removed the slave cylinder - no leaks were found. When I push in the clutch, with the slave cylinder out, the petal is extremely soft. On thing that I am not sure about is the travel of the slave cylinder. It moves an inch, or maybe a little more. Does anyone know how much travel the slave cylinder is supposed to have?



I was thinking that maybe the clutch master cylinder is bad and not moving enough fluid. Any opinions on that?



I am open to any one's suggestions about what the problem may be or what to do to fix it.



I hope that the clutch isn't bad it was replaced a year ago with a SB con-O

 

[CumminsAholic]

I had that problem, it turned out to be a a spring had come loose from the clutch and wedged between it and the flywheel. Hopefully this isn't your problem, but it's a possibility that something came loose and wedged in there like the spring did on mine. I couldn't tell what was wrong by looking at it until I got the transmission off and the stuff fell out.

Corey

 

[SS]

I just replaced the master cylinder/slave cylinder assembly on mine. The m/c had an internal leak - my guess is a 10 cent seal, but it has to be purchased as an assembly (at least for 2001's). By the time I got the new one, it would barely disengage the clutch long enough to shift. Not a problem to match speeds when you're rolling, but makes it interesting at a busy intersection.



An inch of travel seems sufficient. When it's installed it may be leaking down though. You may try shifting quickly after depressing the pedal to check it. Good luck.

 

[Stroker Smoker]

I called South Bend Clutch today and they thought that since my clutch feels norml but won't disengage that the piolet bearing might have siezed up and fused the input shaft to the crank, but theycan't say for sure without taking everything apart. Thinking about it, it makes sense.



Right now Im trying to decide wether I want to tackle the job myself or or pay someone to fix it, because of my lack of spare time. I do know of a good transmission guy close to me.



Id rather not think abut it right now but driving the old beater S-10 is getting old quickly and the problem isn't fixing its self.



Phillip

 

[DDT]

I had the same problem with mine. The piolet bearing was gone except for the outside race and alittle damage to the shaft. Since my clutch was almost gone it was a good time to do it all.

 

[Mudinchev]

Just my 2 cents, if the pilot bushing were siezed I would think it would just twist some thing off, way to much torque on a 1/2 in spud. If it is like mine it is a needle bearing anyway, that would just turn to dust. If every thing is operating normaly with the master/slave cyl, most likely its the clutch . I have done some "shoping" on this matter and have found some one at CarolinaClutch.com that sells Luk (which by the way is the OE manufacture of the stock clutch) Luk has come out with a new clutch that personaly I think is great, and a lot more afordable than South Bend and so far is holding up great "part # 05-117. If you should deside to do it your self it might be worth your while to get in touch with them. Tom Haus is the guy you want to talk to, dont pay much attention to the prices listed on the web sight, he will make you a better deal and most likely even throw in the shipping.

 

[GMincher]

If it were the clutch , pressure plate or throwout bearing I would have expected some mechanical noises leading up to your failure. If it was the hydraulic part, it's silent and sneaky! It's also rather easy to replace and cost me $250... last Wednesday to be exact! My pedal gave me some weird feelings about 2 weeks prior to the failure, so I can't say I didn't have some warning. Hope this is of help.

 

[GMincher]

If it were the clutch , pressure plate or throwout bearing I would have expected some mechanical noises leading up to your failure. If it was the hydraulic part, it's silent and sneaky! It's also rather easy to replace and cost me $250... last Wednesday to be exact! My pedal gave me some weird feelings about 2 weeks prior to the failure, so I can't say I didn't have some warning. Hope this is of help.