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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Code 0237 Turboost MAP sensor low voltage

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When driving the truck, the trans slips around 40 to 50 mph. (normal trans lockup at 45 mph). Put new MAP sensor in and it ran great, truck sat for 4 days and when I drove it, the prior problem came back.

Any comments? Must be an electrical problem? Now I know why people like the 12v.

Items replaced: 1. trans 10,000 miles ago. 2. TPS unit. Tag states no adjustments to the TPS unit (now you can get a TSP sensor from Geno's) 3. MAP sensor Cummings part # 4921497(FYI old sensor requires a 1 1/4" deep socket to remove. new part takes a 1 1/16" or 27mm deep socket to replace). Cumming price is $63 vs napa price of $120. 00.

1999 2500, 2 x 4, ext. cab, 8' bed, 190k, 32" BFG x 18" MB wheels, BD stabilizer, Bilstein, 3 Pillar Auto_meter gauges, FASS lift pump, TD 3000, KDP, Banks: 4" exhaust, elbow, Ram intake and air filter. Quad xzt, Pacbrake bags, fifth wheel, CIPA mirrors, 95 gal. alum. transfer tank, alum. deep trans & rear end covers, laptop setup with converter, Delorme GPS system.
 
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I was having this problem, and followed the APPS adjustment procedure that appeared in a previous issue of TDR. It's been over 1 month now and truck runs GREAT. No more code.



Now, if I can get the oil leak fixed... ... ..... #@$%!
 
i'm having the same problem. i threw the code a few weeks ago and did a search on p0237. it looked like it could be a couple of problems, map, cable, etc. so i got lazy and ordered a new map sensor from geno's. installed and cleared code with reader. few days all was well and then :eek:. back. now i'll have to get unlazy and check the cable first to see if its bad like i should have done in the first place. if you do a search you'll find help doing check on map and cable to see if they are bad. i'll keep watching here to see how you solve problem. it'll be a few days before i can tackle mine as both flu and rain are going to keep me down for awhile. by the way here is what jlandry gave for info on how to check these items in a previous post. hope it helps.





Grab a multimeter and do the following:



Test 1



1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector.

2. Turn the ignition key ON.

3. Measure the voltage between socket "A" and "B" of the MAP sensor connector.

4. Turn ignition OFF.



You should measure 4. 5 volts or higher in the above test.



Test 2



1. Make sure the ignition if OFF.

2. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector and the ECM's 50-pin connector.

3. Measure the resistance between socket "C" of the MAP sensor connector and socket 8 of the ECM's 50-pin connector. The wire you'll be checking is grey with a red stripe.



The resistance should be less than 5 Ohms.



If either of these tests fails, let me know and I can help you troubleshoot further. If they both pass, then you can safely assume the MAP sensor is malfunctioning and should be replaced.



Best regards,



John L.









Attached Images
 
codes p0500 p0122

Can anyone help me with these codes? one of them seems to show low voltage at the apps and the other one deals with a speed sendor. Thanks.
 
I tried the APPS reset trick and it worked for 10 miles, then the P0237 low voltage code came back and the transmission was slipping again, then the transmission would run ok and slip again. I plan on checking the new Cummings MAP senor in the morning and what ever else I can check to solve this problem.
FYI: on the new Cumming MAP sensor, the brass opening is now smaller in diameter than the original one, must put more pressure out due to the change in size.

1999 2500, 2 x 4, ext. cab, 8' bed, 190k, 32" BFG x 18" MB wheels, BD stabilizer, Bilstein, 3 Pillar Auto_meter gauges, FASS lift pump, TD 3000, KDP, Banks: 4" exhaust, elbow, Ram intake and air filter. Quad xzt, Pacbrake bags, fifth wheel, CIPA mirrors, 95 gal. alum. transfer tank, alum. deep trans & rear end covers, laptop setup with converter, Delorme GPS system.
 
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I've just thrown same code. subscribing. I don't get anywhere on my searches. Am I using the search on the home page wrong, is there another search.

fmj is cables the wires?
 
fmj is cables the wires?[/QUOTE]

shawn, talking about the connection between map and wires which is the connector. jlandry showed a photo but it wouldn't xfr to show when i tried to copy his post. i noticed that if you type in the search box P0237 vs p0237 you'll get different responses. anyway, try the following which will get to jlandry's information in a different thread. follow the thread down until you see his name and there will be an attachment to click on. it has the above information and much more. he has the best information i've been able to find so far in searches. hope it helps.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com.../205903-change-map-still-have-p0237-code.html
 
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10/22/2010 @ 2:18 pm est.
Todays test results are as follows for code P0237:

The MAP sensor A and B connectors read 4. 96 volts. (BTW, I installed a Cummings MAP sensor several days ago).

I put "t-pins" (due to small ECM and MAP connector openings) in both the MAP sensor connector "C" and the ECM connector, socket 8, gray wire with red stripe, and the reading for Ohms is "zero". (Ohms is set on 200 Ohms-lowest setting).

Please advise for additional tests.
Jim Davidson-cell: 678-468-8944 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************678-468-8944******end_of_the_skype_highlighting, email: -- email address removed --
 
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Status update: 10/23/2010 @ 3:23 pm est.

The resistance from the MAP wire connector "C" to the disconnected ECM connector pin # 8 is zero..... not good.
The resistance from the MAP wire connector "C" to within 8 inches of wiring (from the connector) is ok
The resistance from the ECM connector # 8 to within 4 inches of wiring (from the ECM) is ok.

Therefore, there is a break in the wiring between those two points..... ran out of time to continue... ... .....
 
my cel just went out????? i've cleared this code twice and it came back and now it goes out by itself. i'm still going to check harness as i know i'll be in east nowhere when it comes on again. jimd you replaced the cable already, right??
 
No, I only replaced the Cumming MAP sensor so far.

The break in the MAP sensor "C" wire, grey/red stripe, to the ECM connector is tied into the main right ECM wire harness.

My manual shows the MAP sensor prongs as: A wire is orange, B wire is black/light blue, C wire is gray/red stripe wire.

The MAP sensor wires shows: A wire is black, B wire is red, and the C wire is Light blue... go figure.

The MAP sensor wires branches off toward the firewall ????

I could replace the wire, but I need to find where the break is on Sunday as time permits.
 
yep, just as i thought. my cel came back on so i started checks. my voltage between "a" and "b" sockets on map sensor cable is 5. 07v. however i am running a boostfooler between map sensor harness and map sensor itself. a check of the sockets (a&b) with the boostfooler in place gives me only . 02mv. i know the fooler must change the voltage response or i would get and overboost condition. what i don'k know is what readings i should get. i removed the boostfooler and ran it up on freeway with no codes. kept the peddle light so i wouldn't throw andy overboost code. by the way how in hell do you get the ecm connector off??? my stubby hands can reach it but no leverage. it doesn't look like there is any kind or tab. i don't want to jack this thread so if my problem goes off i'll start another one.
 
10/26/2010 11:06 am update
Detach the two bolts to the fuel filter and push it aside, this will give you access to the ECM.
You need to use a 5/32" ball hex bit to get to the screw that is located in the center of the ECM module, remove this screw and it comes right off. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery wires before resetting the female ECM connector to the male ECM connector, don't need any opps here!
I called quadzilla tech support and found out the following information:
1. Quadzilla module connects to the MAP sensor. (that's why the wires are a different color in their harness)
2. The second connector goes to the ECM.
3. The third connector goes to their data link
4. The fourth set of wires goes to the toggle switch for extra power.
I got a 48 hour virus, so I have not been back to the truck yet.
Have you called the boostfooler tech support for any info?
 
i bought this boostfooler so long ago that i can't remember who i got it from. looked for receipts last night to no avail. its a straight plastic piece about 3" long with straight pin to pin. there are no markings on it as they were heat scratched out and all that remains is "delphi" name. so the boost fooler was adapted from another application?? what makes me think its history is that the ohm reading is 98. 9 ohms on pin a?? both other pins are good on ohm reading. that would account for the mv reading i'm getting between a and b pins with boostfooler in place. like i said i removed the boostfooler and just plugged in the harness like stock and no cel yet. i do want to check the harness between map and ecu before i buy another boost fooler. thanks for the information on ecu connector. i do understand oops. yesterday i took the truck for a test drive after removing boostfooler and air was coming out of defrost vent only and i lost exhaust break. spent rest of afternoon looking at fuses and such only to find that i pulled off accidently a vacume hose that goes to exhaust break. wasted hours.
 
thanks for the info on getting to ecu connector. everything checked out ok with ohm resistance. put everything back togeather and cel still hasn't come on with boostfooler removed. i'll run it for awhile without to see if it trips. if it stays off i'll buy another boostfooler.
 
I checked the OEM wire MAP connector to the ECU # 8 pin (MAP sensor) and got a resistance reading of . 3 Ohms. . that's good and my voltage was 4. 9... . that's good. Checked the resistance from the MAP sensor "A" to "B" pins and got 585 Ohms each... that's good. In theory the MAP sensor should be ok.

The only thing that we can not check is the resistance and Ohms on these items during driving conditions, wires bouncing around etc.....

However, I sprayed electrical cleaner on the ECM female connector and the OEM wire for the MAP sensor prior to reconnecting these items.

I have a quadzilla chip, which is connected to the MAP sensor. I disconnected their connectors and reconnected the OEM wire to the MAP sensor.
Trucks like great.

I will drive it for several days and then reconnect the quadzilla wire connectors and see if anythings happens... . gotta know it that's what the problem is.....
 
Disconnected my quadzilla from the MAP sensor and put the OEM wire connector to the MAP sensor.

NOTE: put the OEM MAP connector back on to verify if the quadzilla connection could be causing the P0237, low voltage code. Ran Ohms and volts checks on all MAP wiring and ECM, they all checked out ok, MAP sensor was replaced but both the old and new MAP sensors resistance checked out ok.

So far the code has not come back on yet during the last days including a trip to the North GA mountains.
 
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have been driving truck since last post w/o boostfooler and still no cel. drove traffic stop and go, freeway, short and long distances. ordered a new boostfooler.
 
I have been out of town for several days. Several days ago I disconnected my quadzilla, which is connected to my MAP senor and have had no P0237 problems for several days so far.

I will clean the OEM female connector again and reconnected the quadzilla back up tomorrow, and see what happens.

BTW: I called quadizilla and the XZT has a boost fooler built into it.

I don't know what brand of computer your running, but the local 4wheel parts store here has a new Bank 6 gun computer for $275. 00 and a new Banks high ram intake for $250. 00 or so for a 98. 5 to 2001 Cummings.
 
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