Code p003a. fixes/ cleaning turbo or replace

[bearmersch]

I have a 2010 2500 6.7 with deletes for the last 20,000 miles. Popped a code : p003a yesterday. i am unable to clear code with smarty jr. I tow with the truck 75% of the time. nothing more than 10,000lbs, and I always use the exhaust brake when driving. My diesel mechanic said cleaning turbo may work, or i might have to buy new turbo. he also told me to check on this site for help. If anyone has and info that can help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bearmersch]

If turbo needs replacing, should I go with OEM replacement or is there an aftermarket turbo upgrade that works better than OEM?

 

[zetatre]

Do you notice any change in performance? What about the exhaust brake, is it still working?

My understanding of a common cause is that coolant is allowed to enter the area where the PCB is and end up frying or damaging the circuit board. The PCB is not available separately from Cummins/FCA and you need to replace the whole turbo.

I've seen people who were able to repair it: there's some kind of rubber seal that holds the coolant and that's what gets damaged. You can replace the grommet and wash off the PCB with electronic contact cleaner and you may be in luck. Otherwise replace the PCB with one from a used unit.

Again, this is just one of the causes of failure in the actuator, something else to check.

Cleaning could also help if this is result of soot buildup that doesn't allow the vane to move. The system goes through a calibration sequence when the keys are turned off where the vane are moved from full open, to full closed.

Good luck!!!

 

[bearmersch]

There isn't much difference in performance. You can't hear turbo whistle unless at higher rpms. Used to hear all the time. Exhaust brake no longer works. I also no longer hear the two clicks I always heard with start up procedure.

 

[zetatre]

Sounds like something's wrong with the actuator.

Here's what I would do. I would start by removing the turbocharger: don't remove the actuator from the turbo unless you drain coolant. Once you have it on a bench remove the actuator and inspect the circuity board for traces of coolant or burnt marks. If you don't see any, plug it back into the engine harness and turn the key on. You should see the gear spinning as it cycles. Chances are coolant got into the circuit board and short circuit something. If the gear don't spin the actuator is either not activated or it's fried.

If it does than the vanes may be stuck. In this case a cleaning of the turbo with some acetone may solve it.

When replacing the actuator you must align it correctly. Start by lining up the arm so that the hole in the arm matches the hole in the housing. You can use a drill bit of the right size to ensure it is aligned. Insert studs in two opposite holes that secure the actuator to the housing (this will help guiding the two pieces and keep the alignment). Plug in the actuator to the harness, turn the key on and cycle it a couple of times. Insert the actuator onto the turbo housing by aligning it to the studs: the gear and the arms should mash exactly. If not you could have done something wrong. This is important to mechanically line up the actuator.

Please keep up posted for future reference.

If it was my car I would get a turbo exclusively from Cummins (or FCA, albeit more expensive). I've read of many issues from people who buy remanufactured turbos form a place other than Cummins. I can't help with aftermarket as it's not something I follow.

 

[bearmersch]

Thanks for the info! I will be talking to my diesel mechanic soon to go over my options. Thanks again!

 

[zetatre]

Thanks for the info! I will be talking to my diesel mechanic soon to go over my options. Thanks again!

What was the verdict?

 

[bearmersch]

Truck goes in Friday. I ordered a new turbo (OEM). Hopefully I can find out what exactly happened to the old one. Either dirty, or coolant got into actuator circuit board I'm guessing.

 

[zetatre]

Sorry to nag again, but do you have any update on the root cause?