Cold Engine Damage?

[RAMINSPEED]

What is and how do you get cold engine damage? How do you know if you have it? I dont want it so I would like to know how to avoid it. Thanks

 

[y-knot]

The best way to avoid damage caused by cold weather is to keep your Dodge/Cummins plugged in so the engine heater can keep it warm.



If you are truly concerned about engine start-up wear, cold weather or warm, look into the Amsoil pre-lubber. It gives the engine a shot on pressurized oil prior to start-up, removing or DE-creasing the wear associated with dry starts.

 

[RAMINSPEED]

From what I have heared it's related to pushing the truck too hard before the engine comes up to "normal" running temp.

 

[Blakers]

... and don't use ether!

 

[joeyou]

Unless you live in the arctic, don't worry about it. Start it and go. These engines do not need to be "warmed up. " In fact, you'll do more damage letting them idle to warm up than starting and going. I would drive easy for a mile or two, then drive as you normally would.

 

[DHess]

Start it, scrape the windows and/or brush off the snow, and go. And clear the snow from in front of the headlights and off the tail lights as well as the hood. Snow blocking the lights is a pet peeve of mine - as is people clearing a 4x4 inch spot in the wind shield to see out of. But that's another subject.



Dave

 

[LightmanE300]

Lately as temps have gotten colder, in the morning I start mine and let it idle 30-45 seconds or so, and then turn on the high idle feature. I take the dog back inside, lock up, and drive away. By that time the truck has idled a minute or so on high idle, and I drive off gently until the coolant temp is well into the normal range. Call it paranoia, but I dont like loading or revving cold engines high... the metals have not heated to their normal tolerances yet.

 

[y-knot]

I'm with you, and it doesn't matter if the thing is diesel or gas, a cold engine should not be reved or subjected to high loads till it has had time to warm. It's ridicules to say these diesel engines don't need any special cold weather prep, of coarse they do, Cummins, Power stroke, or Bridges and Straton. Plugging them in will reduce that warm-up time significantly, it keeps the block warm which also helps the oil and water inside. Thick oil just does not flow well, the pump will make loads of pressure, but the oil can not flow Thur the tight tolerances found in places like the main bearings. Also, these engines work off of compression, that means they squeeze the heck out of the air in the cylinders till it is hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel charge. With a cold engine, this process is not as effective, so engine operation is so and under powered.

It does not require much effort, just start the thing 3-5 minuets before you plan on leaving. People with automatic transmissions, your trany will not shift into overdrive till the fluid has warmed up to 50 F, so don't worry if it seems a little slow on the colder mournings.

 

[joeyou]

I'm with you, and it doesn't matter if the thing is diesel or gas, a cold engine should not be reved or subjected to high loads till it has had time to warm. It's ridicules to say these diesel engines don't need any special cold weather prep, of coarse they do, Cummins, Power stroke, or Bridges and Straton. Plugging them in will reduce that warm-up time significantly, it keeps the block warm which also helps the oil and water inside. Thick oil just does not flow well, the pump will make loads of pressure, but the oil can not flow Thur the tight tolerances found in places like the main bearings. Also, these engines work off of compression, that means they squeeze the heck out of the air in the cylinders till it is hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel charge. With a cold engine, this process is not as effective, so engine operation is so and under powered.

It does not require much effort, just start the thing 3-5 minuets before you plan on leaving. People with automatic transmissions, your trany will not shift into overdrive till the fluid has warmed up to 50 F, so don't worry if it seems a little slow on the colder mournings.

Idling 3-5 minutes or longer cold will allow raw fuel to get in the ring lands. This can cause damage when it finally gets warm enough to ignite. Plus you're now lubing your cylinders with fuel at this point. Diesels warm up best until light to moderate load. Best to drive easy to warm up, rather than idle. Long warm up periods is old school.

 

[Big_Daddy_T]

I agree with loading the engine to warm it up. Light loads though. All the components need to be coated with warm oil. Never use full throttle before the thermostat opens, especially if towing.

I have a warm up regimen. I start it and wait for the oil pressure to come up. I then engage it into gear and back out of my driveway at 0 throttle. I put it in drive and coast to the stop sign (bout 500ft). I drive no faster than 35mph for the first quarter mile. Then no faster than 45 for the next two miles. Im lucky. I live in a 45mph zone so its easy. This warmup has gotten me over 300k out of every gas motor Ive ever owned. Its main purpose is to get all the components thoroughly covered with oil before loading the engine.



If your really worried about cold temps. An espar heater is awesome. Spendy but hey. This is our engine we are talking about. An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.

 

[Johnstra]

I don't think I'll take this thread too far off coarse with my question... I live at 9000 feet and my commute is almost 20 miles downhill before I hit the interstate. I've always been concerned that I drive that far - basically coasting - before I'm able to significantly load the engine. I've got 26k on it and it uses no oil and oil analysis reports are outstanding, so I guess it's ok. Comments?



-john