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Cold front excellent 3 season upgrade

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Urban CTD's with far too many short trips can live life at normal operating temps with cold front zipped tight 3 seasons of the year.

Glass defrosting/deicing warmups very quick, temp goes to it's thermostat setting & stays there even with low hp work.

Best $80 warm-fuzzy a motor can have.

Jim.
 
I run the Mopar winter front ( p/n 82208646 ) and open and close the flaps as required.( I had a bug screen made to match ) I also use an Espar diesel fired engine preheater. I have the block heater for back up and 2 100 watt stick on oil pan heaters. David
 
I ran the Mopar front for 4 or 5 winters till my cracked and started falling apart. Bought my next winter front one from Genos and have been happy with the bug guard/screen for summer protection. The Mopar cover did keep my truck a tad warmer, never could run fully covered like the Genos cover. I can drive the 9 miles to town with the winter front fully covered/half, doesn't matter, and I'm lucky to see my temp gauge starting to move. Not bad for cab heat unless its --15 degrees below 0, and I run with out OD so the engine will build heat.
I've wanted a Espar diesel for a few years, but the price has always been out of reach, if I didn't have a garage I'd have to figure out how to get one.
 
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David,

Any info you could share about your Espar heater, such as where you mounted it and how you tapped it in plumbing- and electrical-wise, would be appreciated.

Steve
 
Easy
Mine has it also, I fitted it into the front right wheel well directly under the airbox, vertically, connected with two steel lines, cab fan electricity is connected directly at the fan.
It's a very easy straight forward installation.
Need pics?
 
Espar heater also on the list.

Good to hear others satisfied with them.

Trans in neutral w/footbrake set also speeds warmup if you're waiting for glass to clear, 'cuz it runs much more oil circuit than Park.

Jim.
 
Espar makes a kit for the 3rd gens ( Model D5 SC p/n 25 2822 19 05 32 ) and it bolts on the inside of the left frame rail in front of the fuel tank. There are 2 threaded tabs and 2 threaded holes in the frame already. It comes mounted in a bracket that attaches to these. Then you remove the fuel line from the sending unit and install a "Y" and reattach the line . Next you run the wiring harness and hoses along the inside of the frame rail and push the wiring thru the firewall. The hoses go up and over the trans adapter and attaches to the engine. The are a couple of different ways to do it but it's not hard. The instructions are easy. I'm away rite now so I don't have access to them. It comes with a 24 hour timer which allows you 3 preset times and you can turn it on anytime with the push of a button. It will run for a max of 2 hours and depending on how cold it is it can bring the engine temp up to 150*F. I love it. Here is the spec sheet :http://www.espar.com/fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_Kanada/pdf/Hydronic_D5_-SC-S-E_Spec_sheet.pdf It's a bit pricey but since I sell them I got a "good" price on it. David
 
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Yes, any info/pics you have will be appreciated.

Steve


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I would not go to the framerail like ESPAR does it, to much dirt, to long rubber hoses.

I use this heater all my life since my first car till today, it fit them always by my self with the universal fitting kit, its much cheaper then the special kit and works the same way, of course you have more work to fabricate a mounting device and some minor parts but thats easy if a small workshop is at hand.
 
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