cold start and fuel relay??

[Bandit1]

i read that the problem with trucks starting and turning over a few times then shutting off when it is cold out was either the intake sensor or the fuel relay. i have checked the intake sensor but i am not sure where the fuel relay is bc i would like to replace it. it was 13 degrees here yesterday mornign and my truck was a bear to keep started, i actually had to put my foot on the pedal and keep it there jsut to keep it running, then i had a bad vibration and humming sound ( i was told it was the PS pump, and that they do that when it is cold). thanks to all for the help

 

[LarryB]

I don't think it's unusual to have to give it a bit of throttle to start when really cold. The average mechanical pumped diesel has no provision for adding fuel for a cold start. It may help to cycle the grid heater a couple of times. Turn the key on, wait for the light to go out, when it does turn the key off and back on again, when the light goes out this time start it. As far as intake sensor, I'm not sure what you mean.



Ahh, but then, there's a lot of stuff I don't understand!

 

[radixr]

I.A.T.

I think Bandit is referring to the Intake Air Temperature sensor. If the wait to start light goes out in 2 or 3 seconds and the engine is cold, then the I. A. T. sensor could be malfunctioning. If the PCM does not know the engine is cold, it will not turn on the grid heaters and the engine would be hard to start and maintain idle without some go pedal. :{

 

[JJW_ND]

Bandit1... . Next time it is cold and you go through the motions (wait to start light goes out) and it fires but then dies. Leave the key in the RUN positition, pop hood and find the fuel shut-off solinoid (drivers side, just behind the air intake horn and down on the side). It sets verticle with the rod pointed down. Pull up on the rod and see if it stays up. If it does, go start it again (make sure you do not turn the key to off first ... . just start). If it starts and keeps running the problem is: fuel shutoff reley (on the fire wall above or to the left of the Brake booster) or weak batteries, or dirty electrical connections or a few other things.



If it starts and dies, you might turn your idle up a tad and that should keep it going.



Even when starting my 96 in -20 degrees, I do not need to touch the pedal when starting. I have a 5 speed and keep the idle at or near 900. Especially in the winter.



jjw

ND

 

[Cooker]

Bandit1,

Did you ever get this problem resolved?

 

[Bandit1]

i bumped the idle up to 900 in park and it isl ike 750 or something like that in drive. the fuel selnoid arm sticks up and i cant pull it down, i have no clue what else to do. it seems if i give it a little throttle jsut enough to keep the rpms up for jsut a few seconds on the first start it is fine. i did have my idle up to 900 in drive but i didnt like my transmission temp gauge staying as high as it did. any help would be appreciated but if not it is not a big deal, she starts everytime i jsut need to help her on the cold mornings.

 

[Blakers]

Next time it is cold and you go through the motions (wait to start light goes out) and it fires but then dies. Leave the key in the RUN positition, pop hood and find the fuel shut-off solinoid (drivers side, just behind the air intake horn and down on the side). It sets verticle with the rod pointed down. Pull up on the rod and see if it stays up. If it does, go start it again (make sure you do not turn the key to off first ... . just start). If it starts and keeps running the problem is: fuel shutoff reley (on the fire wall above or to the left of the Brake booster) or weak batteries, or dirty electrical connections or a few other things.

I think this is what's wrong with mine - I'm going to check the shutoff relay. Once I raise it with the key on it stays up and will start. That probably has to be up for the heater grids to work.



Thanks,

Blake

 

[Ben Rumson]

 

[LarryB]