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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cold start video

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View this video and see if this is a classic symptom of retarded timing. Of course the reving is done just for the video. I always warm up a few minutes first. It was 36 degrees F today when it started.







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Or if the embeded video does not work try this:



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I have to give it pedal on the first start of the day. After that it will idle perfect. If it is colder, you cannot get it to accelerate. You can floor it and it just stumbles and blows white.



Once warm, it runs like a top.
 
No smoke when warm. There was a time I had 6 min to get to the bank and I immediatly started it, put in gear and took off. Within 2 min, it stopped smoking. It always smokes like that even when it was 60 out and it sat overnight.
 
Neither of my 12-valves start like that at all. Started the '98 this morning at 30F after being unplugged and started driving within 15 seconds (I was in a hurry, but I drove gently!). Only a touch of blue smoke, no miss whatsoever. Your timing needs adjusted for sure, 15. 5* would be good.
 
are both your grid heaters working? Mine smoked like that when one of them was out.

You cant go by the volt meter. You have to test it with a multimeter at the grid heaters on the air intake horn. You will need 2 people, one to turn the key to on and you to check voltage.

Mine still smokes alittle, but thats because of the 20 over headgasket and new (unmilled) head.
 
Bad grid heater shouldn't cause missing like that. My '96 used to run like that 'til I adjusted the timing, totally got rid of it. . . can take it to 2000 RPM within seconds of starting, smooth as can be. . .
 
I thought all 12 valve's stumbled for 30 seconds without grids below 40 degrees.



Mines smokes about the same. I do not go over 1000 rpm for 1st 2 minutes.
 
Mine used to spit and sputter just like that with lots of smoke and popping until it was warm. Bumped up the timing and got my grids working again and no problems at all.

Jamie
 
That is really old school Sick Winter Diesel start up. Except the temperature is not winter. I suspect the timing is off as the 12 Valve should not ever start that poorly even in really cold conditions like -20 to -40 Degree weather. A well tuned Cummins just does not run this bad.
 
Here is another video now with the timing at 15 degrees and it is 10 degrees F.



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Here is a comparison on how I would like my cummins to start and run. This is a perfectly tuned 6. 9L with lots of new stuff including the entire injection system. Only 10 sec on the glowplugs and it comes to life like a hot summer day.

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18 degrees in Northeast Oklahoma and My 96 Dodge started right up with no problems with stock timing and I don't plug the truck in. I let the wait to start light to go out then bump the starter and motor will fire with no hesitation or stumbling but it will idle low say around 500 to 600 rpms for a few seconds some of which is due to the load on the alternator. I also let it warm up a couple of minutes on its own before giving any extra throttle. The 2nd video Dodge start sounded as if there are pretty weak batteries or the starter is dragging and not spinning fast enough. Are you on the throttle and off the throttle several times or is that the engine surging on its own? It looks like the timing helped on the smoking issue as well. I also had a 1985 Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 with the 6. 9 with the timing set at 7 degrees BTDC. I never plugged the truck in for the block heater. I would cycle the glow plugs one time and basically bump the starter and the motor would fire. I didn't have to keep on the starter as it seems like you had to do which almost sounded like trying to start the motor after re-priming the fuel system after replacing the fuel filter, you know where it is trying to bust over but you keep on the starter until it does.
 
18 degrees in Northeast Oklahoma and My 96 Dodge started right up with no problems with stock timing and I don't plug the truck in. I let the wait to start light to go out then bump the starter and motor will fire with no hesitation or stumbling but it will idle low say around 500 to 600 rpms for a few seconds some of which is due to the load on the alternator. I also let it warm up a couple of minutes on its own before giving any extra throttle. The 2nd video Dodge start sounded as if there are pretty weak batteries or the starter is dragging and not spinning fast enough. Are you on the throttle and off the throttle several times or is that the engine surging on its own? It looks like the timing helped on the smoking issue as well. I also had a 1985 Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 with the 6. 9 with the timing set at 7 degrees BTDC. I never plugged the truck in for the block heater. I would cycle the glow plugs one time and basically bump the starter and the motor would fire. I didn't have to keep on the starter as it seems like you had to do which almost sounded like trying to start the motor after re-priming the fuel system after replacing the fuel filter, you know where it is trying to bust over but you keep on the starter until it does.



On the cummins that was floored and then idle a few times, that is how bad it runs cold. I will indeed idle, but is like yours about 500-600 rpm until it warms up. I did give it some pedal as soon as I heard how low the batteries were otherwise, now that the timing was done, it will start without pedal. The batteries are mismatched 750 CCA's from 2002 and I have not upgraded the starter contact yet. I want to solve this cold start issue before putting another dime into anything else.



On the Ford, the front tank is bone dry and I think it lets a little air in. Also it started better with the y-pipe on. Right now there is no exhaust system because I am going to be putting on an aftermarket turbo system. But notice how smooth it runs as soon as it starts, that is how I would like my cummins to be.
 
White smoke is usually due to unburned fuel being vaporized but not burned. That can happen with retarded timing, which causes fuel to be injected after the initial burn, or because of excessive fuel being injected while the engine is cold, thus not creating a good, hot burn cycle. In that case, you're essentially drowning out the fire. That would cause a stumble, just like bad timing. Once it gets warm, it clears up, right? An injector that has lost its ability to "pop" would add extra fuel after the burn, but it would likely take more than one to exhibit the smoke and stumble we see in your video.



You say your's is stock, so unless you've recently adjusted something to add more fuel, then something has changed on its own. Timing maybe. Could be the head gasket too, but that would be highly unlikely on a stock set up. I'd get the timing checked and maybe bumped up a little. But also check all the other things like fuel/air leaks in the fuel supply path and so on.



-Jay
 
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