Confessions of a neglector (its not too late, help me)

[BCrane]

Alright... .

'04 QC 4x4 LWB 36kmi



Ive always been bad with maintenice on my vehicles... I want to change my ways... My truck needs to be serviced... bad. and I think I would like to do it myself. Its been over 10k since the last oil change. I always get oil EVERYwhere when I take the filter off (spews), so I have been hessitant to do it myself. :-{}



Fuel filter needs to be changed, And I think I need to do the rear diff... ? How hard are these to do in my driveway/garage? any step by step guides?



I am wanting to start bombing my truck (KORE, juice/attitude the whole works. So I need to make sure she is taken care of. Ive done a few searches. . to no avail?

 

[DaveK98]

I've only changed to oil in my truck once (only have 6k on it though).



I found it to be the most simple of any vehicle I've ever changed.



Oil filter was not on tight and I used the metal fluted tool from genos. Not a drop of oil came out (although the filter was full so you need to be carefull you don't tilt it. My wifes t-bird has the filter on a 45deg angle and it drips all over the frame, hoses etc. Filled the filter and spun it on.



Plug came out no problem, installed a fumoto valve plug (from genos) so this should be even easier next time.



Best thing is I didn't even have to jack up the vehicle.

 

[Tomeygun]

Alright... .

'04 QC 4x4 LWB 36kmi



Ive always been bad with maintenice on my vehicles... I want to change my ways... My truck needs to be serviced... bad. and I think I would like to do it myself. Its been over 10k since the last oil change. I always get oil EVERYwhere when I take the filter off (spews), so I have been hessitant to do it myself. :-{}



Fuel filter needs to be changed, And I think I need to do the rear diff... ? How hard are these to do in my driveway/garage? any step by step guides?



I am wanting to start bombing my truck (KORE, juice/attitude the whole works. So I need to make sure she is taken care of. Ive done a few searches. . to no avail?

I alwasy slip a bag under the filter and when it drops, it goes right in the bag. Then I just lift up and all the oil stays in the bag...



Also note that the drain plug is a bear and be careful not to overtighten it as it can break the threads in the pan. NO FUN...



Like mentioned above, fill filter before installing - then you get oil pressure faster

 

[john3976]

I alwasy slip a bag under the filter and when it drops, it goes right in the bag. Then I just lift up and all the oil stays in the bag...



Also note that the drain plug is a bear and be careful not to overtighten it as it can break the threads in the pan. NO FUN...



Like mentioned above, fill filter before installing - then you get oil pressure faster

What problems have you had with the drain plug?



I have not had any problems with the stock drain plug in my truck, is there something I should know about?



My drain plug has never given me any problems.

 

[drewRoberts]

Ive found if I let my truck sit for a few house the oil will be pulled out of the filter enough to worm it out from under the truck and I wont spill a drop Oo.



my little yoda has the filter in the same possition, but located much lower on the block so oil spews out all over the place

 

[Tomeygun]

What problems have you had with the drain plug?



I have not had any problems with the stock drain plug in my truck, is there something I should know about?

My drain plug has never given me any problems.

I have not had any problems, But I have heard that overtightening can cause stripping of the thread, and theres not that many threads there anyway.



Just a word of caution

 

[Diesel Power]

amsoil would solve your change interval problems= 25k or better!! :-laf

 

[rbattelle]

With regard to the oil drain plug stripping, there have been many instances of people breaking the plugs whilst trying to torque it to the factory spec, which is 40 ft-lb. In my opinion, 40 ft-lb is WAY TOO MUCH!! I tighten mine by holding my 1/2" rachet around the head and twisting. I've never had it leak a drop, and my plug is in great shape. If I had to guess, I'd say I'm putting around 5-10 ft-lb torque on it (that's a very rough guess).



Here are some threads to get you started with the fuel filter and the differential:

Nickleinonin gives a nice fuel filter procedure



Pull the covers to change the differential fluids. You're supposed to change diff fluid every 15k.



At 36k you might also consider changing the transfer case fluid and the transmission fluid, although there is no specified change interval on them.



-Ryan

 

[BCrane]

With regard to the oil drain plug stripping, there have been many instances of people breaking the plugs whilst trying to torque it to the factory spec, which is 40 ft-lb. In my opinion, 40 ft-lb is WAY TOO MUCH!! I tighten mine by holding my 1/2" rachet around the head and twisting. I've never had it leak a drop, and my plug is in great shape. If I had to guess, I'd say I'm putting around 5-10 ft-lb torque on it (that's a very rough guess).



Here are some threads to get you started with the fuel filter and the differential:

Nickleinonin gives a nice fuel filter procedure



Pull the covers to change the differential fluids. You're supposed to change diff fluid every 15k.



At 36k you might also consider changing the transfer case fluid and the transmission fluid, although there is no specified change interval on them.



-Ryan

.



THANK YOU,



I think that is what I was looking for... I broke down and just had the oil changed with Rotella at the local wally world :-{} . It NEEDED to be done... way way way overdue... I'll do the next one myself.



I was looking into a new rear diff cover, so... maybe 2 birds one stone...

 

[rbattelle]

Don't forget the front axle! It needs lovin' too.



I used to work in an automotive warehouse. Among the myriad items we stocked were engines. We would accept the cores back from the stores and ship them out to the rebuilders. It was fascinating seeing all the cores come back and figuring out what went wrong with the engine. I'd guess that 66% of the cores that came back were COVERED in what looked like asphalt - on the inside, in the lifter valley. Often it was so thick you could scrape it with a putty knife. I was always told those were engines whose oil was never changed or not changed enough.



Your engine oil has a limited capacity for holding contaminants. When that capacity is reached, very bad things begin to happen. Contaminants begin to pile up and stick to all the internal surfaces of the engine. That's why their innards are covered with asphalt. Oil MUST be changed before the contaminant capacity is reached.



I'm not trying to shame you at all, BCrane, I just want other people reading this thread to understand the importance of regular oil changes.



-Ryan

 

[phloop]

With regard to the oil drain plug stripping, there have been many instances of people breaking the plugs whilst trying to torque it to the factory spec, which is 40 ft-lb. In my opinion, 40 ft-lb is WAY TOO MUCH!! I tighten mine by holding my 1/2" rachet around the head and twisting. I've never had it leak a drop, and my plug is in great shape. If I had to guess, I'd say I'm putting around 5-10 ft-lb torque on it (that's a very rough guess).



-Ryan

You use a 1/2" ratchet on the drain plug?



I just got done servicing my 04. 5 and it takes a 3/8" square drive. May be a difference between the years of our trucks?



The one thing to remember is the drain plug's head is rubber coated. You only need to snug up the drain plug, you do not need to get out a torque wrench as the rubber may be peeling off of the plug's head by the time you get to the torque range you are looking for.

 

[rbattelle]

You use a 1/2" ratchet on the drain plug?

Yes, a 1/2" rachet..... with a 3/8" square drive adaptor, of course!



-Ryan

 

[BCrane]

Don't forget the front axle! It needs lovin' too.



I used to work in an automotive warehouse. Among the myriad items we stocked were engines. We would accept the cores back from the stores and ship them out to the rebuilders. It was fascinating seeing all the cores come back and figuring out what went wrong with the engine. I'd guess that 66% of the cores that came back were COVERED in what looked like asphalt - on the inside, in the lifter valley. Often it was so thick you could scrape it with a putty knife. I was always told those were engines whose oil was never changed or not changed enough.



Your engine oil has a limited capacity for holding contaminants. When that capacity is reached, very bad things begin to happen. Contaminants begin to pile up and stick to all the internal surfaces of the engine. That's why their innards are covered with asphalt. Oil MUST be changed before the contaminant capacity is reached.



I'm not trying to shame you at all, BCrane, I just want other people reading this thread to understand the importance of regular oil changes.



-Ryan

Oh no, I deserve to be shamed. . heh.



I am going to order the new diff covers shortly, and get the fluid changed myself.

 

[testraub]

Alright... .

'04 QC 4x4 LWB 36kmi



Ive always been bad with maintenice on my vehicles... I want to change my ways... My truck needs to be serviced... bad. and I think I would like to do it myself. Its been over 10k since the last oil change. I always get oil EVERYwhere when I take the filter off (spews), so I have been hessitant to do it myself. :-{}



Fuel filter needs to be changed, And I think I need to do the rear diff... ? How hard are these to do in my driveway/garage? any step by step guides?



I am wanting to start bombing my truck (KORE, juice/attitude the whole works. So I need to make sure she is taken care of. Ive done a few searches. . to no avail?

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/browse.php?mod=5&part=1 look for the Excel Spreadsheet You seem to need this you slacker :-laf