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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) conflicting bombing answers/question? (also TC guru's please look)

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Blown Transfer Case!

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rim width?

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I'm gonna start bombing my '00 4x4 auto pretty quick here. I as everyone am on a limited budget so I've been searching hard for all the right advice. (The TDR by the way is about the best thing I could have ever spent $35 on in my whole life. ) But I've got some conflicting info.



I plan on running the FMS blue premium box with a timing box and injectors.





Obvisously first off I need a valve body and a converter. Anybody have problems or recomendations of any brands? I know there are a lot of different companies making different stuff. Do all of the aftermarket valvebodies apply full line pressure to the converter regardless of throttle position? Also if anybody is good with converters read on (otherwise feel free to skip this tech mumbo jumbo and go to the next paragraph) I had heard (from a borg-warner trans engineer) that cluch holding capacity is calculated using the average diameter of a cluch area. I also heard that there is no room to go "outward" on the lock-up clutch in a dodge converter. So if in fact you can only add material to the inside that will effectivly lower cluch capacity. Now obviously the aftermarket converters are much better, but is this only due to the strengthening of the pressure plate for the lock-up clutch? or is there some companies making a double sided pistons to fix that problem?



ok now for the fun questions MORE POWER!





First Chip at Blue Chip told me that a turbo housing change on a hx-35 was enough to keep the EGT's down under about 400hp. Seems like a lot of people with less power then that have changed to the hx-40. Is this a "everybody's doing it so I should to" kind of thing? Any experiences with it? I have been told there are reliability issues with the hx-40's



Same advice with the exhaust too? Is the factory stuff good enough to support big power? Maybe just eliminate the muffler and or resinator? Not that I don't love the noise but I don't think my girlfriends parents want the truck any louder when I leave at 1:00 am lol



Third I will be doing everything in steps of course, first the trans, then FMS, but should I add injectors with the FMS first or the Timing box? It seems the timing box will really wake up the bottom end power a ton!



I really would rather not use the Comp box, not because I don't think it works, but I just like the FMS for the defuling and built in gauges etc. . . Everybody argues all day what box makes more power but when it comes down too it, everybodies opinion is based on what they have, not a whole lot of what they've tried. The comp box will obviously outperform any stand alone fuel boxes, but stacked a FMS and a timing box seems every bit as good as the comp.



lastly any idea how much power this thing should make? HP/TQ it'll probably end up being a 100hp injector change, FMS, timing box, turbo housing change. I was hoping it'd make 400 HP but I don't know if that is realistic or not. The truck is a '00 4x4 auto 3. 55's , QC long bed. Anybody ever drag raced this combo? I'd really like to get it in the 14's but I don't know if what I'm planning on is enough.



Thanks in advance to everybody for the reply's all info is greatly appreciated!
 
Scott;

First off... welcome to the Dark Side :D . Let's see here... .

transmission... If you can, I'd recomend into either a rebuild using a company's "Uprate Kit" and good rebuilder or a new complete transmission from a vendor. Which one? Good question. Read all the posts you can find, contact all the vendors and then decide. I personally use the DTT transmission, but a few friends use the SunCoast and are real happy with it. I've heard nothing but good things about the Goerend and BD has really shaped up lately.

Now, what injectors are you looking for? 275s? Bigger? I have a set-up similar to what you'll have if you do 275s, I have a hot Power Edge 3 stage box, an EZ and 275s. I've dynoed at 338-347 HP and 680-770 lbs. ft. of torque. A Friend of mine has a 2000 4X4 2500 with an auto and SWB. He has a Edge Comp box and Bully Dog 4 Injectors. He's in the 13's in the 1/4 and has dynoed at 403 HP. Now, he does have a complete Suncoast and a 4" exhaust. He still has the stock HX 35-12cm. , he can peg the EGTs:eek: . I still am stock and can get it up to about 1250-1300 in the 1/4 mile. If you plan on towing you should look into a bigger housing/turbo. If not, just watch the EGTs. Now, I would most definatly look into a 4" exhaust. That and a better air-intake system will cool down the EGTs. Before you get the 4" exhaust, try and get to an event so that you can hear the diffrent systems and find one to your liking sound-wise.

Good luck.

Oh, and if the FMS doesn't measure Fuel Pressure, get a gauge that will, I'm on my fourth Lift Pump at 75,000 miles :{ .

Josiah
 
Don't forget gauges. After the DTT transmission stuff, I'd say the best bang for the buck for me was the DD2's and a comp box. Runs GREAT, starts easy and gets decent milage.



Robin
 
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