2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Control arm bushings

[SAndreasen]

Has anybody used the energy suspension control arm bushing kits ?

 

[JMcCoy]

I read somewhere that it is very difficult to get the old bushings out. They need to be torched out. I would imagine they work fine, but they will ride rougher than stock. I'm ok with that. My DOR control arms have urethane bushings at the frame and Johnny Joints at the axle. If you have any front lift, I would get aftermarket control arms that are 1/2-5/8" longer.

 

[Loghead]

I have those in my truck.
J McCoy hears right: I had to burn the old bushings out with oxy-acetylene torch.
So unless you have access to such equipment you might want to think about new control arms to go with the new bushings.
I'm a cheapskate with welding equipment; I boxed the old arms by welding 1/4" thick strips to the bottom - and then primed and painted them inside and out, finally filling them with expanding foam.
I noticed a substantial improvement in the tightness of the front end - though I'm not sure if the improvement was enhanced by modifying the old arms while I was at it.

Sitting here thinking about that project - I remember seeing how someone devised a press to push the old bushings out. If I have time I'll post a link here.

 

[SAndreasen]

I have a torch to burn the old ones out *. I would be interested to see and hear more about the modifications to *the control arms and if it helped or not*

 

[Bob4x4]

In the early days of of off road racing the 3rd gens in the stock full class there were many bent and broken control arms.It was hard finding enough arms to carry as spares.Boxing the arms was not allowed per SCORE rules.
Boxing in the arms would prevent damaging the arms and could be used for pre-running.No downside to boxing your arms except perhaps the risk of rust from trapped moisture.

 

[GrantP]

I had them in the my last set of aftermarket control arms and they wore out fairly quickly with noticeable movement (and an associated clunk) in the arm. They also like to squeak if you don't keep them lubed. I'm running Carli arms now with their greasable "johnny joints" and have no complaints, no slop, no squeaks. If that's more than you want to spend I'd just look for some factory replacements with rubber bushings.

 

[SAndreasen]

I had them in the my last set of aftermarket control arms and they wore out fairly quickly with noticeable movement (and an associated clunk) in the arm. They also like to squeak if you don't keep them lubed. I'm running Carli arms now with their greasable "johnny joints" and have no complaints, no slop, no squeaks. If that's more than you want to spend I'd just look for some factory replacements with rubber bushings.

Thanks for the info*

 

[Texis]

The old bushings will pop right out, AFTER you fold the 4 small tangs out of the way. The folded (crimped) tangs hold the bushings in their location.
Look closely and you will see them once you have the control arm out.

1) Use a sharp HD knife to trim away the bushing material that is outside the control arm.
2) Use a hammer and a flat end punch, tap the tangs (crimps) clear of the bushing OD.. add some WD40 and the bushings knock right out, without excessive force. See image for tang locations.

Make sure to support the control arms during the process, they are thin and will bend and distort easily.

Have fun, good luck.

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[Loghead]

In the early days of of off road racing the 3rd gens in the stock full class there were many bent and broken control arms.It was hard finding enough arms to carry as spares.Boxing the arms was not allowed per SCORE rules.
Boxing in the arms would prevent damaging the arms and could be used for pre-running.No downside to boxing your arms except perhaps the risk of rust from trapped moisture.

First of all - and I got thinking about this after posting - I feel obligated to say that indeed boxing the arms will make them stronger, but any positive result is contingent on knowing how to do it properly.
If you're unsure of your ability then it's certainly wiser to buy a set of arms that (we all hope) have been designed and built by trained engineers and fabricators. You don't need the liability just to save a few hundred bucks.
So be careful.
In my own case I'm reasonably confident that the paint and foam will exclude moisture, though I could be badly mistaken.
It wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Loghead]

I have a torch to burn the old ones out *. I would be interested to see and hear more about the modifications to *the control arms and if it helped or not*

For me, modifying the arms (specifically boxing them) seemed to me a preventive measure.
Replacing the relatively mushy stock bushings with urethane will raise the buckling stresses in the (lower) control arms in the event of hard forward braking. I probably didn't need to box the uppers at all.
Would hard forward braking cause the lowers to buckle with the added shock loading possible with harder bushings? From what Bob has said it seems an eventual certainty with the forces involved with serious off-roading.
Outside of hard braking or the stresses of off-roading you may never feel the difference in the way the truck handles.
You'll just be more confident that a panic stop won't cause your front axle to end up further aft than where it belongs.

 

[Bob4x4]

I doubt many would feel any difference because of the bushing material.I have solid flex joints at all ends of my Carli control arms never felt any added vibration.

 

[SAndreasen]

Bob where'd ya get your arms and what do they cost ?