2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission control arm installation help

[GGuion]

I am trying to install some tubular control arms on my 98 4x4. I removed the upper arm on the drivers side and then proceeded to try and removed the bolts on the lower and I couldn't budge the one with the adjustment. I decided to put the old upper control arm back arm since the daylight is running out and I was planning on driving it to work tomorrow. Anyway I cannot get the holes in the upper arm to line up, I put the bolt in in the hole towards the back of the truck, but I cant get the hole by the front tire to line up, I've tried jacking up different areas of the truck and no luck. So what is the proper procedure for doing these things? Should the lower be removed before the upper can be put on or what? Sorry about the long question, any help will be appreciated. Oh p. s. and I called a guy at the place where I bought the control arms, and he said to undo the track bar bolt on the drivers side. which i did and not any difference. thanks

Gary

 

[Joe Mc]

Removing the track bar will allow the diff to move left or right - you need it to move either front or back to get the bolt in - I'd try leaving the track bar where it is then unbolt the sway bar from the two mounts on the frame - that will give you a bit more front and back movement. Then get a bottle jack, or if you don't have one, use the stock jack and a cut to size length of a 4 X 4 that will fit between the jack and the rear top arm mount. Use the jack to move the axle forward a bit to get the holes to line up. If you need to move the diff to the back cut another 4 X 4 to fit between bottom rad support and diff then jack it back a bit. I assume you are using jack stands if you are not doing this with the tires on the ground . . .

As far as the bottom bolts (eccentric bolts) they are more than likely seized and may need to be cut out if you can't soak the hell out of them with penetrating oil and beat them free. I was lucky and able to save mine - they came out with a little persuasion. My buddy had to use a sawsall with a Milwaukee torch blade and cut the bolts on both sides of the stock arm (both left and right sides) to remove the old arms. Best suggestion I have about the bottom bolts - pick up new ones at the dealer before you get started. You can re-use the outer eccentric washers and nuts (if you can get the nuts off the original bolt prior to cutting) to keep costs down.

See this link for the part number on the bolts https://www.turbodieselregister.com...eccentric-cam-bolt-lower-control-arm-4x4.html - see permalink # 2

my buddies truck is an 01 but they should be the same part number.

 

[Joe Mc]

So how'd you make out?

 

[J Baxter]

I'm probably really late on this but you need to make sure you are loosening the nut only.
Loosening the bolt tries to adjust your alignment, which can't happen until you loosen the nut on the inside.

 

[JMcCoy]

I really wish people, who ask for advise, would follow up and let us know what their outcome was.



That said, if you have three of the four control arms on, one could put the truck in gear. This will twist the axle in one direction or the other.

 

[J Baxter]

I've done this recently, I get the top arm in place and put in one bolt, if the other lines up great, if not leave it.
Then work on the bottom one, set the back bolt, the lower front has more flexibility due to the alignment adjustment, I set the frame on a jack stand and use the floor jack to get the axle close, then use the alignment adjustment to get the upper front bolt aligned.
reset the cam to where you started and tighten.
I'd be scared to drop it in 4 wheel drive and use torq to move the axle around. Maybe I'm just overly cautious.

 

[BEnglish]

i use one of these, makes moving axles easy



#ad

 

[JMcCoy]

J BAXTER, you are right. It Is not the best mathod, but will get it done in a bind. Putting it in gear should not be a problem. Just like turning your steering wheel to line up the track bar. There is always the risk of your drinking buddy/helper running you over. LOL! I you have access to one, the above press If probably your best bet.

 

[Joe Mc]

Here's a trick I learned in the Navy when trying to get a steam pipe flange to pull back so we could get the bolts back in. Wrap a good strong rope around the two ends, tie w/square knot and stick a long wrench or pry-bar in the center of the two lines - start spinning the wrench/pry-bar to shrink the rope (don't let go or you'll get whacked) as the rope shrinks the parts come together insert bolt, thread nut on and "slowly" back off wrench/pry-bar to relieve tension. Dangerous but it worked.

 

[J Baxter]

SWEET!!! I need one of those.

 

[BEnglish]

SWEET!!! I need one of those.

here is the link

they aren't too much