2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Converting '97 Steering Linkage to '98-'99 (Inverted-Y --> Inverted-T

[pcorssmit]

Has anyone converted the early (I think '94-'97) inverted-y steering linkage to the '98-'99 inverted-t setup? I need to replace the long side of the tie-rod, and have always been dissapointed with the goofy inverted-y setup. I have seen some custom setups on 1/2 tons using Chevy 1 ton tie rod ends, but not sure if a straight drag link will clear the diff cover on a D60. Has anyone done the swap, using either factory or custom linkage?



Pete

 

[JIM S.]

too the top... . I am intersted in this also...

Jim

 

[jrobinson2]

What do you hope to improve by changing? I know they changed back to the "Y" style in 2000, I wonder why they changed back? I looked at my '99 and the tie rod is offset forward away from the diff. cover an inch or so, I don't think a straight tie rod would clear.

If you need any measurements of a '99 cross steer, inverted T or what ever you call it I can check mine.

Jared

 

[pcorssmit]

Heres a link to another BB I have this posted on.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=2020023#post2020023



Pete

 

[pcorssmit]

With inverted-y, the toe changes with ride height. Hit a bump, and the wheels toe out (on compression), then in (when it rebounds to above static ride height). I’ve just never liked the way the steering felt on it, very imprecise (and no, I’m not trying to compare it to a car, rather other straight axle trucks I’ve driven. ) There also seems to be a lot of bends in the linkage, and I personally feel that the setup is a contributor to death wobble. I haven’t had it for a while, but I can feel the type of bump that sets it off, and I also think its what caused the failure of my TRE; death wobble has got to just beat the hell out of the TREs.



I took a good look at it last night, and I don’t think a straight linkage would clear, the diff cover on the driver’s side, and the track bar mount on the passenger side. Its possible it could work, but I suspect that at the least, you would have to dent the diff cover, and grind down the head of the track bar bolt. Wouldn’t be able to tell for sure without trying it. I also measured from the ctr of the TRE to the steering-axis, parallel to the frame, and it is ~6 ½”. I then measured the Dana 60 on my Chevy, and it is around 8”.



Thanks for the measurements offer, a guy here at work has a ’99 that I’ve been looking at.



Pete

 

[B KIRK]

Try this site. They can make a setup that would work. You can go standard to heavy duty pieces.



Brad

 

[jrobinson2]

This thread has a few posts by monkeyman about converting.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=60520

Jared

 

[pcorssmit]

From what I've gathered so far, a Ø1-1/4" straight tie rod will just barely clear. I'm considering 3 options currently, either a stock setup, a full custom setup with Chevy TREs, or a combination of a stock tie rod and custom drag link using TREs--so far, it looks like the price for the tie rod is fairly reasonable, but the drag link is $$.

The stock '97 setup uses two 1" adjusters, the stock '98-'99 setup uses a 1" adjuster on the drag link, and a 1-1/8" on the tie rod, so if using a factory tie rod I will have to replace that as well.



Pete

 

[pcorssmit]

OK, I finally got it done, and had it aligned last night.



I bought the parts for a '99 2500 4x4 w/HD steering. Advance, NAPA, and Carquest had listings for the parts. I went with Advance since they were much cheaper, although the store manager that ordered the parts for me is a complete tard, and it took 2 1/2 wks an 3 trips to the store to get all the (right) parts.



ES3497 Passenger Inner (Short end of the Drag Link, attaches to Pitman), $28.

DS1459 Passenger Outer (Long end of Drag Link, attaches to Tie Rod), $29.

ES3496 Driver Outer (Short end of Tie Rod, attaches to Driver's knuckle), $29.

DS1456 Driver Inner (Long end of Tie Rod, attaches to Pass knuckle, has hole for Drag Link) $95.

ES3498S Tie Rod End Sleeve $25.



The adjuster sleeve on the drag link can be reused, but the one on the tie rod must be replace since the threads are bigger on the inv-t setup.



I lost my mounting for the stablizers (1 OE and 1 homebrew). IIRC, the OE setup on the inv-t is clamped on to the driver inner. Not sure if the frame mount is the same or not. I plan to weld a stud on somewhere when I get a chance, for now it feels ok without it though.



I haven't changed the pitman arm, since its not a wear item the parts stores don't carry them, I'm afraid to see what Dodge wants for one, given how proud they are of the rest of thier parts. The inv-y one has ~1" greater drop than the inv-t one. I can't adjust the steering wheel quite all the way, but its close. It would be pretty easy to shorten the ends of the drag link a little, but I think I'll try to find a pitman arm instead. Either way, it wont affect the alignment, may just have a little bump steer.



So far, the truck drives a lot better (of course I was replacing a worn drag link), and seems more solid going over bumps, doesn't feel like it wants to start wobbling (which it has always done, even before the old setup was worn).



Pete

 

[jrobinson2]

I bought a pitman arm for my '99 about a year ago and paid around $80. 00

Jared