Archived Coolant Leak Near Exhaust manifold

[MacGreenie]

Folks,



I have noticed this evening that I have seepage of coolant from the next to last (upper) exhaust manifold bolt.



I have a 1998 24 Valve 2500 4X4 with 67K on it.



Are there coolant passages at the root of the mounting bolts (Cracked head or water jacket maybe? Yikes!) or perhaps the gasket is bad at that particular segment and just leaking coolant down that bolt and its spacer? The motor has never overheated or run low on coolant.



I believe I have lost about a pint of coolant over the last few months due to this. Have driven about 2000 miles with this small leak.



I am still about 4 months left on the warranty but I wonder if I am better off just replacing the manifold gaskets myself? Surely removing the turbo and doing this job is not too complex?! I just hate to go to the dealer and risk them buggering up all my guage wiring and mucking around under the hood!



Is this a common problem (the leak... not the reluctance to engage the Dealership!) with these engines?



Thanx in advance. As they say in Vegas, "You've been a great audience".



MacGreenie

 

[kluther]

do a search on freeze plugs. i have read that there are freeze plugs under the ex manifolds, for each cyl. ken

 

[Evan A. Beck]

If you have a 53 block, it could be cracked just below the exhaust manifold... Hope its a freeze plug or head gasket!

 

[Neal Cassady]

Expansion Plug Pic

Search the 24V Engine and General Diesel forums, there are some topics there that cover the subject.



I have a similar leak (37K miles), it is a tiny pinhole in the plug behind and below number six. I put some JB Weld in the pinhole and on the surface of the plug. It reduced the leak from a spray/drip to a very minor leak. I think the location may be too hot for the JB product, but it seems to be holding up well enough to give me some time to consider my options on fixing it/having it fixed.



I had the local Cummins shop look at it, they indicated they would most likely pull the head to R/R the plug. The plug should be able to be R/R without pulling the head but will require lots of contortions.



Here is a pic of a head, plug is indicated by arrow. There are 7 of these on the 24V head, one below/behind each cylinder and one just below the Tstat housing. Number six looks the toughest to replace with the head on. There are also two or three expansion plugs plus one threaded plug on the rear of the head in that location.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Most so called freeze plugs (sand cast plugs) can be removed using a self tap metal screw and a pry bar Small or a wedge with a slot in middle and taped under screw head to cam the plug out . First drain water down below the level of the plug . then use the above or other way to get plug out . Some do not remove but use hi temp metal filler and leave in place but again lower water dry then use a filler . A filler could be used with a screw to remove a plug too . Have fun . Ron in Louisville KY

 

[Bill Lins]

Originally posted by Evan A. Beck

If you have a 53 block...

What's a "53" block and how do you tell if you have one?

 

[Alan Reagan]

Bill, Look at the flat ledge just over the oil filter. You can see the numbers by looking through the manifold opening. It's the stamped number on top of the ledge.

 

[Joe Mc]

Originally posted by MacGreenie

I have a 1998 24 Valve 2500 4X4 with 67K on it. I am still about 4 months left on the warranty



Hey Mac, If it's a problem with anything on the engine it's covered till 100K. I'm positive someone will chime in if I'm wrong. Why spend your own $ fixing if it's covered of course unless you are bombed beyond and warranty is just a memory.



Keep us posted