Here I am

coolant leak

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

DPP cool intake hose

Stop injector rattle?

Status
Not open for further replies.
2007 5.9 3500 dually, noticed for first time stream of coolant coming from under truck apparently dripping from back of engine where engine and trans connect.
engine has a block heater and have had problems with leakage when heater is plugged in but that in cold weather and the temp today here is in the high 70s. Does anyone have an idea why it would suddenly start leaking while sitting and the truck hasnt mover for over 10 days.
 
There is a small coolant hose covered in foil that is behind and underneath the turbo on your truck. It WILL eventually leak and cause drips/loss noticeable right where you are seeing it near your bellhousing...there IS an updated hose AND clamp from Mopar and/or Cummins, but you will pay MUCH less for it from Cummins--

Here are the Mopar numbers for what you probably need, sorry do not have the Cummins part #'s right now, though someone else may chime in or you can find it with the google--


1-05179114AB hose
(2) 1-05179115AA clamps
 
The neighbor came down and asked me to give him a hand on his 06. He got the old hose off by cutting it but could not get the new one on. If you look at the photo of the new hose installed you can see a goober that is on the top pipe. It would not come off and kept the hose (that is very flexible) from pushing on far enough to get it over the lower pipe. Photos were an after thought, but removed inner fender, moved generator, front pipe hose lower clamp by oil filter, front pipe bolt to block, and turbo oil feed line to get front pipe to rear pipe gap larger. Sounds like a lot of work, but it really made it easier. Had that goober not been there it would have been a 10 minute job. Unfortunately he didn't get the spring clamps. If he had the job would have been tough without the good remote spring clamp pliers. The normal spring clamp pliers would be tough to get back there.

Top photo, 10mm bolt on front pipe. Second photo, same bolt and turbo oil feed line. Third photo goober on top pipe that kept hose from being slid all the way up. Last photo slide lower clamp up on blue hose so pipe can be removed.

P3210878.jpg
P3210880.jpg
P3210877.jpg
P3210876.jpg


P3210878.jpg


P3210880.jpg


P3210877.jpg


P3210876.jpg
 
Last edited:
The new hose is very soft and flexible, nothing like a "normal" heater hose. Yes the photo makes it look easy, no access to get in there and knock or grind it off. I thought it might be a glob of paint, but it didn't budge with a screwdriver.
 
see that would bug the crap out of me with those clamps not being turned the same way. I'd have to take one off and flip it over.
 
Wingate and Dave, I like to do things "purdy", too, but I like maneuvering room even better. Which are the best clamps to use now? The screw-tite or the spring?
 
Wingate and Dave, I like to do things "purdy", too, but I like maneuvering room even better. Which are the best clamps to use now? The screw-tite or the spring?

for that line i would use the spring clamps so they self adjust....this job is way to hard to have to go back and adjust the clamps again....
 
That little piece of hose has been a pain in the butt for a lot of people many times over.

I just allow mine to cold leak. Only time it leaks is during the colder winter months... even then its just a nuicance. Overflow bottle has to be topped off about once a year... Not worth messing with fixing it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top