Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Coolant, thermostat and hoses change

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Settings on Rancho 9000 shocks

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 auto trans.

Status
Not open for further replies.

ILIANBG

TDR MEMBER
Hello everyone. I want to change the coolant, thermostat and hoses. The hoses are original. The truck has 125000 mi. The coolant and thermostat have been changed before at the dealer(at about 60000 mi. ). At what mileage do you guys change the thermostat and coolant? I assume the hoses have to be replaced. They look and feel good, but are original, so I want to be safe. How difficult it is to do it? What coolant is it used? I tried to search in forums and seems that is a specific coolant (ethylene) and I guess around 6 gal.

Is this correct? I'll feel really good if I could do this myself, but I've never done this before. Also where to get the correct parts- I want OEM thermostat, good hoses, and good coolant. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you.

Ilian
 
Coolant should be flushed every 30,000 Miles or 2 Years, much past that and you risk letting the ph levels in the coolant getting out of control and eating at the cooling system. Its an easy job to do, you should use distilled water for flushing/filling to keep the ph neutral. If you have good treated water at home then it will probably be ok, just make sure your not filling your system with some well water that's got a high iron or sulfur content.
There are a few excellent writeups on here for flushing coolant, I could type a page worth on the procedure but hopefully someone will be able to provide you a link. It is a simple yet time consuming job and your going to have a mess so be prepared to be able to catch 12 gallons (or more) to properly flush your system.
Genos is a good source for everything you will need unless you prefer the dealer as you mentioned.
 
Thank you guys. I think I'm going to attempt to change it myself. Now I have to get all the hoses and thermostat. Does anyone know if the OEM thermostat and the Gates from Genos are the same part?
 
Thank you guys. I think I'm going to attempt to change it myself. Now I have to get all the hoses and thermostat. Does anyone know if the OEM thermostat and the Gates from Genos are the same part?

I've heard a lot of people swear by the Cummins stat, I've personally used the Gates when I last flushed my system and it hasn't given me any problems so far. I think it is a good alternative to the oem Cummins stat. Whatever you get, be sure to get the 190* stat. I've seen alot of places also offer a 180* which will work, but they are the most efficient when the proper stat is used.
 
For the flush- " Drain cooling system and refill with water. Run engine with radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill system with water, run engine and drain system. Repeat until water drains clean. "
So few questions:
1. Is the thermostat in place?
2. Where is the water poured? Through the radiator, overflow tank, or removing the thermostat and pouring in there then install the thermostat back and run the engine?
3. What is used to seal the thermostat housing from leak? Now I have something like red RTV sealant from the previous coolant/thermostat change done at the dealership. Does the new thermostat come with an o-ring or RTV is what is needed(red)?
4. Where is the new coolant poured?
5. How much coolant do I need? It seems 6 gallon if pre-mixed. Is it correct?
6. Which one to use? It says ethylene glycol based with silicate inhibitor-green (from the owner's manual).
I'm sorry for all these questions, but the quote I got from a local dealer in not in my budget now and I want to do this.
The quote is:
-coolant flush and install new coolant/antifreeze
-install new upper and lower radiator hoses
-install new thermostat
Total parts and labor: $605 before tax

Is this the normal rate for doing this work. If yes, then I can not afford this now. I have to do it myself.
Thank you and I really appreciate your help.
Ilian
 
Last edited:
I always remove the thermostat when flushing, that way the water is constantly circulating through the system. Once the stat is removed, you can bolt the housing back in place and snug the bolts up. It will seal good enough to do the flush. If the new thermostat is purchased through Genos the seal will be provided. If you buy it locally just check the box to make sure.
Add the water to the radiator like normally would, it will quickly work it's way through the system with the stat removed.
Generally I would do the flush first then change your hoses, that way when you remove the bottom hose you can drain as much of the water from flushing as possible. Not really a big deal either way, just how I do it.
I would recommend buying the non diluted antifreeze, the 50/50 mixture is almost as much and you get a gallon less, it's quite the scam. Not only that but you will want to ad a gallon of straight antifreeze to the system when you refill after the flush because you will have straight water in the block, before adding 50/50 mix.
Just buy the plain green antifreeze, if your unsure the people at the auto parts store will be able to help you.
600 Bucks Seems pretty steep, I don't blame you one bit for doing it on your own. You will have the satisfaction of knowing it's been done right.

Now would also be a good time to check your tensioner pulley and belt if you haven't done so lately.
 
Last edited:
I always remove the thermostat when flushing, that way the water is constantly circulating through the system. Once the stat is removed, you can bolt the housing back in place and snug the bolts up. It will seal good enough to do the flush. If the new thermostat is purchased through Genos the seal will be provided. If you buy it locally just check the box to make sure.

Add the water to the radiator like normally would, it will quickly work it's way through the system with the stat removed.

Generally I would do the flush first then change your hoses, that way when you remove the bottom hose you can drain as much of the water from flushing as possible. Not really a big deal either way, just how I do it.

I would recommend buying the non diluted antifreeze, the 50/50 mixture is almost as much and you get a gallon less, it's quite the scam. Not only that but you will want to ad a gallon of straight antifreeze to the system when you refill after the flush because you will have straight water in the block, before adding 50/50 mix.

Just buy the plain green antifreeze, if your unsure the people at the auto parts store will be able to help you.

600 Bucks Seems pretty steep, I don't blame you one bit for doing it on your own. You will have the satisfaction of knowing it's been done right.



Now would also be a good time to check your tensioner pulley and belt if you haven't done so lately.



Thank you so much.

How do you check the tensioner pulley? Is it something that needs servicing/replacing?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top