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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Copper Head Gasket

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Arp Stud Torque Procedure

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I looked through the old threads and didn't find much about this, so I thought I'd ask. Are there any disadvantages to having a copper head gasket? Also with studs, do I need to retorque them ever, say when I adjust my valves? Finally, Is it OK for me to run 36psi+ everyday with my set up? I can't keep my foot out of it very well.

Thanks in advance,

Jamie Hastings
 
when i asked this question i was told its not very good for daily driven street trucks. i was told you could not get it to seal very good. looking at your sig why do you have a 160 pump on a stock 215 pump truck? just wondering.
 
Long story short, the PO used it for pulling and when I wemnt to buy it he removed the twins and had a 160 laying around so he put that in.
 
I've been running a copper head gasket with studs for 3yrs now---but you can't just slap the gasket on and hope it seals the water and oil passages--it will for awhile but eventually it will leak---so what we did to my headgasket was first to remove the coating that was on it--this was supposed to be the cat's pajamas for sealing, but HVAC and I had doubts so I removed the coating with lacquer thinner---then prior to slapping the head back on HVAC, willyslover, brad seitz and myself took some yamabond 6b and one guy coated the head, one guy coated the block and the other two guys attacked the gasket---you have about 5 minutes to coat everything and then to drop the head in and get the stock bolts in and torqued to 50lbs---now on Brandon's 12v when we pulled the head once we could leave the exhaust side studs in as they were short enuff to allow for head removal--this will save you some time---so once you have all the bolts in and torqued to 50lbs then remove one at a time and install the stud and torque the nut down to 50lbs also---be sure you use ARP moly lube on the nuts, threads and washer-----also to be sure to coat around all passages it would be wise to drop the gasket on and use a marker to outline all openings on the block and head---I also coated the oring's and receiver grooves----everyone can laugh all they want but mine has held for 3yrs and seen 85lbs of boost many times--I've only retorqued once --warm engine up and then let cool to 100* and get after it---chris
 
need to add that once all studs and nuts are torqued to 50lbs then go thru and finish torqueing them to 125lbs, per the instructions---chris
 
I wonder if their is any chance that Brandon already did this or not when he put in the gasket that is in there. I'll have to call him. Thanks for all the info.

Jamie
 
well I would be kind of surprised if he did, as when I did it a lot of people thought I was crazy, but HVAC got the tip about the yamabond from his buddy sportbike and we didn't really say anything to to many people, but I'm sure I told Brandon what I did---but it may have been the first time we tried the copper head gasket and it failed, but we used yamabond 5b on that gasket and we had only . 041 orings top and bottom with no receiver grooves(2nd go around we made receiver grooves and I changed one wire to . 051), so Brandon may have been leary about the yamabond--he may have used something that has been on the market for some time, I can't recall the name, but it's something like copperbond or coppergasket---it's in all the stores--also I'm pretty sure he has . 051 orings, but I don't know if there's one or two per cylinder and I'm not sure if he did receiver grooves--chris



Rubberneck would know if you can't get a hold of Brandon---chris
 
copper hg good to go I used the yama bond and a couple of other tricks up my sleeve studs are good to go as well. . if any ? call me



ps vaughn I would take a 160 over any overrated pos 215 pump any day all the 160 needs is some 13mm p and b and you got a wicked pump. funny how the lil 160 gets picked on when compared to the almighty jd, dd 215 greater than any one elses pump
 
Dude, dont touch that head. It has . 051 wire and reciever groove to keep the fire in, and yamabond to keep the oil and water where they belong. Us valley boys learned a few things about those copper gaskets along the way. There are a few secrets to proper seal besides the type of spew you put on em. :D That head was retorqued properly and held 90 psi boost for 2 pull seasons. Trust me dont fix it if it aint broke. PHil
 
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Brandon and Phil--glad to see you chimed in--I just couldn't recall it you did the yamabond or not--my brain cell is a little overloaded --chris
 
csutton7 said:
Brandon and Phil--glad to see you chimed in--I just couldn't recall it you did the yamabond or not--my brain cell is a little overloaded --chris



LOL, dude, I cant remember half the stuff I have done since way back then let alone worry about how everybody else fixed their trucks. ;)
 
Danelle said:
copper hg good to go I used the yama bond and a couple of other tricks up my sleeve studs are good to go as well. . if any ? call me



ps vaughn I would take a 160 over any overrated pos 215 pump any day all the 160 needs is some 13mm p and b and you got a wicked pump. funny how the lil 160 gets picked on when compared to the almighty jd, dd 215 greater than any one elses pump





Okay what the heck is "p and b", forgive me if this is a dumb questions, 10 hours of work will do it to me everyday.
 
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