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Correct Weight Distribution

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I have a 2008 Dodge Ram 3500 Reg Cab DRW 4x4. I have taken it to the scales and it weighs 7280lbs ( Front Axle = 4380 / Rear Axle = 2900) right after filling up. I purchased this to tow my 35ft bumper pull travel trailer. I use a Equilizer hitch for weight distribution and sway control. I recently hooked up to it, filled it with water, and took it to the scales right after fueling up again. The combo weighs 16120lbs ( Front Axle = 4120 / Rear Axle = 4120 / Trailer Dual Axles = 7880). I believe I set my weight distribution hitch up correctly based on measurements but does the weight distribution seem correct? I was under the impression that it reduces tongue weight. It doesn't seem correct that a 8840lbs (16120-7280=8840) trailer should have a 1220lbs (4120-2900=1220) tongue weight. Any ideas?



Brandon
 
If you're front axle is getting lighter then your equalizer is doing nothing. With no equalizer the rear axle acts as a pivot and the trailer hitch weight lift the front slightly. An equalizer acts as another pivot lifting the hitch and rear axle. The weight transfers FROM the rear axle TO the front axle and trailer axles. With enough tension you can lift the rear axle off the ground. You can relax the equalizer and go through the scales to get a closer hitch weight. The DRW is up to the task. A 10% - 15% hitch weight is normal so your particular tongue weight seems ok.

With the heavy Cummins in the front and the DWR in the back you don't really need a lot of equalizer anyway.
 
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Road Dog said it well above.

Your weight distribution hitch is not set up correctly and isn't doing anything for you. Ideally you should not remove weight from the front axle but should be removing weight from the rear axle and adding some to the front axle.

With a dually you don't need the wd hitch. It really doesn't matter.

I pulled conventional travel trailers several hundred thousand miles without a wd hitch when I was hauling them commercially.
 
On all our trucks... we've installed a simple air bag system to level each truck with each trailer. we install the trailer and add air to level the truck... .
 
Today, I added more distribution force and went back to the scales. I believe that I am maxed out on adjustment now on my hitch. I did not fuel up again but I probably only used a couple gallons since last night. Also some water probably splashed out the overflow. Now I weigh 16080lbs (Front Axle = 4260 / Rear Axle = 3900 / Trailer Dual Axles = 7920). I don't know if it makes a differece but an additional factor is that my truck is mildly lifted and I am using a 14" drop shank to get the travel trailer to ride level. I believe it drives well and all the calculations work out according to the setup instructions. Just wanted to run it across the scale because a scale doesn't lie.



Brandon
 
Yes, the tall tires and/or lift does make a difference in wd hitch set up and towing stability but you've probably got it adjusted as well as possible. If it tows stable without undue sway you should be okay.
 
I applaud you for doing it right, any time you lighten up the steer axle, your truck will handle differently, even though you don't necessarily need it, if you own a WD hitch, why not.



I always get a kick out of lifted trucks towing heavy TT toy hualers with their truck front ends way up in the air. You know its got to be unstable. Chevy comes to mind on that subject with their IFS causing a heavy upper/outward camber on the tires, let alone the unstable rig.
 
I think you was close enough with the first weight!! You should have about 300Lb more on the drive axle. taking some weight off the front will save your front end.
 
I remember years ago I seen a video showing a front wheel car with trailer and WD Reese hitch. To demonstrate effectiveness of their hitch they had it set so they could pull the trailer with the rear tires removed. Was a fun video and shows how well the hitch could work. Of course nobody should be doing this so "do not do this at home; this done on a closed course by professional drivers"!!!
 
Brandon,



You haven’t calculated the hitch weight yet. You can measure the hitch weight a few different ways, but you cannot measure it by comparing axle weights with the truck hitched (with a weight-distributing hitch) to the axle weights with the truck unhitched.



The way I measure hitch weight is to tow the trailer to the scale, then unhitch the weight distribution part of the hitch. This will place all the hitch weight on the truck’s hitch. Weigh the trailer axles only, keeping the truck’s tires off the scale. Then weigh the entire trailer alone. The difference between those weights is the hitch weight.



Another way to do the same thing is weigh the truck by itself. Then, without using the weight distributing part of the hitch, hitch up to the trailer. Weigh just the truck’s axles while it is hitched to the truck. The difference between these weights is the hitch weight.



Another way to get a very close approximation is to unhitch the trailer, leaving only the front jack on the scale. The weight at the jack will be close to the hitch weight, with a greater error the farther the jack is from the hitch ball coupler.



In order for any of the above methods to work, the approach and departure areas at the scale must be level with the scale. You cannot use these methods accurately if the scale is at the top of a ramp.



The very best way to measure the hitch weight is to buy a scale for that purpose. There is at least one company that makes such scales. See here: Trailer Loading and Towing Guide

(That site also has a good discussion of trailer loading, hitching, and towing. )



Generally speaking, you want at least 10% of the trailer’s weight to be carried by the hitch. More hitch weight will result in a more stable trailer, that is, less likely to sway.



I partially disagree with Harvey about the requirement for a weight distributing hitch. He says that you don’t need one. I say that if you have the factory-installed hitch, you do need one. The numbers are VERY difficult to get from Dodge, but as I remember it, the hitch on my 2008, Quad-Cab, 2500, 4x4 is rated at 10,000 or 12,000 pounds with a weight-distributing hitch, but only 5,000 pounds without a weight-distributing hitch. I wish I could find the reference for those numbers, but I can’t anymore.



So with a trailer that weighs 8840 pounds, I would say that you do need a weight-distributing hitch.



Having said that, many drivers, including Harvey and me, have towed trailers above the weight limit and had no problems. You probably won’t either. I do agree with Harvey when he said, “If it tows stable without undue sway you should be okay. ”



Do both the trailer and the truck sit level when the trailer is hitched up? If not, then you probably need to adjust the height of the ball. With your truck sitting so high off the ground, you may not be able to get the ball low enough for the equalizing bars to do much good.



Another option to increase the equalizing force from your hitch is to adjust the tilt of the ball mount if possible. That’s the heavy piece that the equalizing bars mount to. If yours is adjustable, try tilting it down more than you currently have and see if you can get more force on the bars.



One last thought: If your weight-distribution hitch is maxed out and you still aren’t transferring any weight to the front axle (as appears to be true), then you may have a hitch that is underrated for the weight of your trailer.



Good luck



– Loren
 
It is worth remembering that the original poster was inquiring about towing with his drw 3500 and that is also the truck I was addessing. Trailer tongue weights are much less important on a dually than on a srw truck.
 
It is worth remembering that the original poster was inquiring about towing with his drw 3500 and that is also the truck I was addessing. Trailer tongue weights are much less important on a dually than on a srw truck.



Harvey,



I agree with the concept that the DRW trucks can handle the extra weight much better than my 2500. There's something about Dodge's hitch design, or mount, or something, that causes Dodge to rate the hitch at a lower trailer weight than the truck is capable of towing.



I'm sure that there are several aftermarket hitch manufacturers that make Class V (or stronger) hitches that will mount to our trucks. I'm also sure that those hitches will tow more than the truck itself is rated to tow.



Mostly I was commenting on the rating of the factory hitch. The older trucks, like my 1995 and 2000 (now gone, sadly) year trucks, had the hitch rating stamped right onto the hitch itself. My new 2008 truck doesn't have that.



-- Loren
 
I'm not disagreeing. I don't think my '06 Ram 3500 had a weight spec decal on the hitch receiver but my '01 did. My '06 was used exclusively during my experience as an RV transporter and never saw use of a wd hitch.

I pulled some extremely heavy conventional trailers with it including some pintle hook equipped commercial storage "silo" trailers for one of the companies I hauled for. The OEM hitch was still okay at 230k when I sold the truck but I wondered sometimes why and how it had stood up to that abuse without bending or breaking a weld. Dodge may have changed suppliers for the OEM trailer hitch receiver after failures or early wear out on Gen II receivers.
 
What weight rating are your load bars? Sounds like you have the lighter 1k bars, try stepping them up to the 1200 or 1500 lb bars. Thats what I needed to do and I have a similar TH trailer, 31' bumper pull. Tried the lighter bars and tail draging and sway insued. Purchased the heavier bars and set them up, made the driving much better.



No dually here tho.
 
In my opinion , no need for WD hitch with trailer of that weight. If you are only unloading the front end by 200lbs be happy, this will help balljoints live longer.



I think Dodge rates a max of 1200lbs tonque weight on factory hitch, above which torsion bars are needed by the book.



I would make sure trailer is level or very slightly down from level by using correct drop of hitch when truck and trailer is loaded and ready for road.



Dont give up one of the good things about DRW... ... . not having to mess with torsion bars unless getting into real serious weights.



Just my experience
 
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