CR Rear Axle Seal Installation

[Archive]

Hey Gang!

This weekend I'm planning on installing my new Mag-hytec differential cover & the recommend "CR" rear axle seals (P/N 5003464AA) to hopefully bring an end to my leaking axles. I have just replaced both rear axle seals back in November with the standard Mopar P/N's and they began to leak 2 months later. I hope these "CR" seals do the trick!

I'm going by memory here, so bare with me, but these seals look significantly different around the outside sealing surface where they are pressed into the drum assembly. If memory serves me right, I concerned about pressing the seal past what I believe to be the dust seal edge.

Has anyone done this installation on a Dana 70 First Generation truck? I know Big Don has done this replacement but he seems kind of busy with his cylinder head R&R.

I would appreciate any guidance or tips on this installation.

1992 W-250 5 spd. 3. 54 gears with Banks "Stinger Plus" kit consisting of 14cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" exhaust/muffler, pyro/boost, K&N, 2 1/2" Skyjacker front suspension lift to clear 305/70R/16 Goodyear MT's

 

[Archive]

Keeno
I was just wondering who is a supplier of CR seals? I am looking at doing mine again and would also like to upgrade.
As for hints on install, I can't give any really great insight. I don't know where the new running surface would be with the CR seal.

------------------
Jason's Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 2WD 5Spd 3. 55 Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", 3. 5" Exst straight,E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. Bosch 100W Driving. Bosch 55W Fogs.
215,000 miles (350,000 Kms)

 

[Archive]

OK,I know I don't belong here #ad

I have a 97 3/4 ton with Dana 80 and my pore lil obsolete sick Ram can't afford another 5 hp penalty for cross posting, so don't tell the overvalved ones about me. #ad

I just replaced the seals on my diff with CR 28746 from Pep Boys, where I got the best price of $8. 50 each.
I don't know if there are "better" seals out there, but I found enough problems with the diff to cause the leaking. Spec for my diff brake hub is 1/8 turn loose on the big nut after torqueing it, to give about 0. 010" endplay. The hubs had a lot more than that when I disassembled them. The wobbling from excess endplay could contribute to leaks. I put a bit of moly high temp wheel bearing grease on the spindle surface and the seal lips to help keep them from burning up. When reassembling the hubs, I poured a little axle lube onto the rollers from one end of each bearing. I did not use any grease on them. Since I have the Mag Hytec, the bearings will get oil fast--the oil level is high enough. With a stock cover, the oil level is so low that the bearings might not see lube for days, literally. I once checked a D70 a week later, with stock oil level, and the axle shafts were still dry! Make sure there aren't nasty grooves cut into the spindle seal surface; if so, you need to get it sleeved or install the seal so the lips avoid the bad area, if there is enough latitude in how deep you drive them into the hub. Put a bit of silicone RTV on the outside of the seal and the hub so they won't leak there. I checked after a week and mine weren't leaking . . . yet, anyway.

Hope this helps.
Joe

 

[Archive]

Keeno, I use a block of wood slightly larger then the axle seal to drive the seal in flush with the opening,then turn the wood on its end and drive the seal in another 1/16 of an inch or so. I use a little axle grease on the seal lip and on the spindle. The FSM says to torque the wheel bearing nut to 120-140 ft. lbs. then back off 120 degrees. I back off 90 degrees. I thought backing off 120 degrees there was too much play.
Gene Hayford
92 350 4x4

 

[Archive]

I have CR seals on my truck, I just checked and I have 14,000 miles on them with no problems. I never use to have seal problems, but I've found some of my problems to be defective Napa seals, which look like National seals. Unless they give me problems, I'm staying with CR and to h*ll with Napa.

------------------
92 2500 Reg. Cab LE
Dark Spectrum Blue and Silver 4x4 Auto
212,000 plus miles
16cm2 housing, Isspro guages.

 

[Archive]

Thanks for the replys!

Please tell me if I'm imagining things here, but I believe on the 1992 Dana 70 rear axle there is a 'dust seal' (metal lip) that is held in place by the pressed in lug studs. This 'lip' is at the opening of the hub bore where the seal needs to be inserted. Remember I'm going from memory here, the exploded view in the manual does not show the back side of the brake drum.

My concern is that the standard seals have have a squared shoulder design where it is pressed into the hub. The CR seals have an additional sealing lip on the exterior of the seal where it mates with the hub asm. Question: How do I pass the CR seal past the metal lip with out wiping off the exterior sealing lip?

I did this job 4 months ago for the first time and my memory isn't as sharp as it once was. Does this sound correct or am I just telling storys?

Lil' Dog the seals I used are genuine Mopar $19. 75 each, OUCH! If this works it will be worth it though.

Thank You in advance for your replys!
Keeno

 

[Archive]

Keeno
If I am thinking what you are thinking, which I am sure I am, just put it in the hole and tap it in place. It will go past the metal shield.

Rodney

------------------
92 2500 Reg. Cab LE
Dark Spectrum Blue and Silver 4x4 Auto
213,000 plus miles
16cm2 housing, Isspro guages.

 

[Archive]

Hey Guys, I replaced the right seal when it leaked @ around 40k. I used a National seal and with 7k on it, I just pulled the drum for a look see and all is well. There is a slinger that is held in place by the wheel studs and it's purpose is to keep oil off the brakes "just in case". I use a seal installer that is available (mine is Mac) and is the only real safe way to install seals and bearing races. I preload the bearing nut to seat everything, back off until I feel a bit 'o play, then tighten until the play goes away and then a nudge more. I always replace the nut after a few uses, I had the same setup on my '81. If anyone wants the Nat. seal # I will post.

------------------
'92 W250,3. 54,auto,reg cab, raven hi top cap, tach,boost,transtemp,pyro. 16cm housing.

 

[Archive]

Guys,

Some seal installation hints. I like to use sockets to install seals. This seal is pretty big, sooo... I use the old seals, if you do not tear them up getting them out. Clean them and use them and a hammer to tap the new seal into place. Be sure to turn the spring on the seal to the oil side of the seal. The CR seals are great. They are a double lipped seal to keep oil in and dirt/dust out. They are available at NAPA. NAPA is a CR dealer. DO NOT buy the seals at autozone which are advertised as TIMKEN seals. These are cheap junk. For a laugh go buy and ask to look at one. They only cost about 3. 49. Had my truck down and needed seals, so I ran over to autozone and bought 2. Thought they looked cheap, but did it anyway. They lasted about 4 months!!! did it again with the right seals (CR from NAPA). Been fine since.

later


------------------
1989 D 250 Ice blue met. 5 spd 3. 54, 140,000, Banks stage III powerpack straight exhaust, pump adjustments, still looking for more power ON HOLD DUE TO BLOWN HEAD GASKET!!
1999 3500 4x4 Chassis cab Emerald green ISB 5 spd 4. 10 K&N Filter straight exhaust 9 ft flatbed WARN fenderflares,Let the BOBMing begin!!! 275hp injectors installed, boost and pyro gages, awaiting results of those who have purchased the VA box.

 

[Archive]

Just an installation update! I wasn't imagining things, there is a 'slinger' (stamped metal flange that is attached by the lug nut studs) that interferes with installing these improved seals (P/N 5003464AA).

Approximately an 1/8" on the slinger ID needs to be ground away before the seal can reach the mounting bore. Once this clearance is provided the installation is as straight forward as the OEM seal installation. I press the new seals in using a similar diameter (OD) piece of steel and a small amout of pressure from an arbor press. They went in nicely w/o much pressure.

The only problem with modifying the 'slinger' is that you loose the protection it provides for your brake shoes when the axle seal fails or leaks.

Keeno

 

[Archive]

I have the CR seals in mine, CR28746. The metal flange does not get in the way of installing this seal. 16,000 miles so far, and not problem.

Rodney

------------------
92 2500 Reg. Cab LE
Dark Spectrum Blue and Silver 4x4 Auto
214,000 plus miles
16cm2 housing, Isspro guages.

 

[Archive]

Well, I wasn't imagining things, I did have to modify the slinger for this particular application. The external sealing ring was about an 1/8" larger than the ID of the slinger.

Wayne M. , if your still out there, could you please provide me with the Nation P/N for the seals that you used. I'm still having oil leak troubles! See other posting if you have an interest or other advice.

Thanks! Keeno